Cologne is a city of contrasts. Germany’s most catholic city is also one of its most progressive. Founded along the Rhine River as a Roman settlement in 38 BC, Cologne has managed to stay relevant through more than 2,000 years of history, culture, and artistry. Germany’s fourth largest city celebrates its distinct “Kölsch” culture by marching to the beat of its own drummer: drinking its particular beer, speaking its unique dialect, and living its free-spirited lifestyle. While honoring its rich past, Cologne is a city living in the present and looking toward the future.
Considered the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) is the unequivocal symbol of the city. With construction beginning in 1248, and taking more than 500 years to complete, the centuries-long commitment was well worth waiting for. The mammoth structure now covers over 86,000 square feet, and soars an astonishing 515 feet, making it the biggest and most popular tourist attraction in Cologne and one of the most loved in all of Germany. Typical of Gothic architecture, the cathedral’s giant spires stretch toward the sky to create a landmark visible from almost anywhere in the city. In Cologne, the Dom is the North Star by which you map your travels.
Inside the cathedral, the soft light refracted through stained-glass windows dances beneath the high ceiling, always reminding the visitor that the focus of this structure is upward, toward heaven. Admirers of religious art and architecture can truly meander for hours through the various chapels within—noting the wooden choir stalls circa 1310; the oak-carved Gero Crucifix (the oldest surviving Medieval sculpture in northern Europe); and, of course, the Mecca for Christian pilgrims, the Shrine of the Three Kings. This five-foot tall golden tomb is said to house the remains of the Biblical Wise Men who visited a newborn Jesus, bearing gifts of gold, myrrh and frankincense.
But even before the Dom Cathedral dominated the city landscape, religion found a Medieval home in Cologne’s Romanesque churches. Mostly built between the 12th and 13th centuries, these twelve churches located throughout the city, all share the dense construction and semi-circular arched windows typical of this architectural style. However, years of additions and restorations have left touches of other eras on these structures, making each truly one of a kind. Though many were damaged during the air raids of the Second World War—in fact over 70 percent of Cologne suffered destruction during that time—the city has painstakingly reconstructed these masterpieces to their former glory.
In addition to rebuilding its past, modern Cologne is investing in the future. Adjacent to the famous Dom Cathedral now are new structures dedicated to the worship of art and music. First, the Museum Ludwig has raised the city’s profile as a center for modern art. Showcasing art created after 1900, the Ludwig displays an extensive collection of cubist paintings by Pablo Picasso, as well as American pop art, German expressionism and Russian avant-gardism. Around the corner, the Kölner Philharmonie is a temple to music. During performances, the plaza surrounding the concert hall is guarded from foot traffic to protect the sanctity of sound inside. Designed as an underground amphitheatre, the home of the Gürzenich Orchestra and the WDR Radio Symphony Orchestra embraces musical styles beyond classical, extending its stage to jazz, folk and pop. Lovers of musical theatre can stroll along the riverbank to the Cologne Musical Dome. This “blue dome” has, since its debut in 1996, housed sit-down, German productions of the musicals We Will Rock You and Hairspray, along with tours, concerts and special events.
Alongside the artistry of its churches, paintings and music, Cologne residents joyously celebrate the art of living. Always ready to toast with their local Kölsch beer, the people of Cologne love a good party. This frothy blonde brew is served in skinny glasses called Stangen and best enjoyed on any weekday that ends in d-a-y: any time is Kölsch time! Though available throughout Cologne, the beer halls of the Altstadt along the Rhine River (also referred to as Old Town) provide a perfect location to soak up the infectious local attitude.
Yes, every day is a party, but at no point is the city most alive than during Carnival. Coined the “fifth season,” the festivities begin on the eleventh minute of the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month. As the clock strikes 11:11 on 11/11, residents and visitors alike take to the streets to commence a celebration that continues through Ash Wednesday of the following year. Though the Carnival spirit takes a brief hiatus to celebrate the winter holidays, the festivities climax with the official parade on Rose Monday (before Ash Wednesday, usually in February or March). It’s the party of the year, and you are invited. With a guest list numbering over 12,000, the costumed revelers throw Kamelle und Strüßcher (sweets and flowers) from floats and horses parading along a four-mile stretch. Closing times for pubs are suspended, and the parties continue indoors and out at all hours of the day and night.
If your visit falls during any of the “other” four seasons, you can still enjoy the spirit of the city while sightseeing on the BierBike. Digesting more than 2,000 years of history is always best accompanied by a cold brew. On the BierBike you will burn calories as fast as you consume them. A guide points out the sights and serves you beer, while you pedal along the streets on a 16-seat covered bar, attached to wheels. Available year-round, the BierBike also offers hot apple cider and mulled wine alternatives for the chillier months.
Whether parishioner or party animal, you will eventually require sleep. Fortunately, Cologne offers a broad variety of hotel options. Located minutes from the Cathedral and the Hauptbahnhof train station, the Cologne Marriott surprises—infusing well-loved comfort with a playful, quirky character. For one, all 365 rooms have access to “Kitchen-TV.” No, it is not a German version of “Top Chef.” Rather, Kitchen-TV broadcasts the 24-hour activity from the kitchen of Fou Brasserie, the hotel’s popular restaurant. Culinary voyeurs rejoice! Order room service and watch the preparation of your meal, or call down to find out the name of the chef’s latest steaming creation. Of course, in addition to this kooky feature, the hotel is also complete with fitness center, Plüsch Bar, Executive Lounge and a new outdoor terrace to enjoy during the summer months.
If passion for fine art exceeds your curiosity of culinary arts, spend your nights along the Rhine River at the recently unveiled art’otel cologne. Exhibiting a permanent collection by Korean artist Seo, the art’otel cologne fuses architectural style with artist-inspired decor in every room, nook and cranny. From the exterior, the square windows create a mosaic of multi colored glass sparkling along the rectangular concrete structure. Inside, Seo’s 30-foot-tall work of art welcomes you to the hotel’s main hall.
Some hotels serve simply as a place to rest during your travels; some hotels are a destination unto themselves. The Hotel im Wasserturm is most definitely the latter. Housed within what was once Europe’s largest water tower, the Hotel im Wasserturm has become one of Germany’s most chic destinations for sophisticated travelers. The circular 130-year-old exterior demands every room be distinct. Each one has been individually designed by renowned French designer Andrée Putman with built-in, one-of-a-kind furniture to meet the needs of the unique space. A member of the prestigious “Small Luxury Hotels of the World” each room is an exclusive slice of an immaculately designed pie. Sitting atop the tower, the Michelin starred La Vision restaurant crowns the structure with gourmet meals overlooking the Cologne skyline.
Contrasting history and religion with modern art and progressive thinking, Cologne successfully encourages the unification of seemingly conflicting lifestyles. Light a candle or sip a beer—or perhaps a combination of the two—and discover a city that embraces both religion and revelry.
The country code for Germany is 49
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Getting There:
The Köln Bonn (Cologne Bonn) Airport, located about 11 miles southeast of the city is the nearest airport, with direct flights to many European cities. An alternative to consider is flying into Frankfurt Airport (Europe’s second busiest airport), and taking the ICE speed train directly from the airport to Cologne (just over 1 hour). The train station (Hauptbahnhof) in Cologne is directly next to the Dom Cathedral.
Where to Stay:
Cologne Marriott: Just a few minutes from the Cathedral and train station, this 365-room hotel provides fantastic comfort, fitness center, executive lounge, 24-hour dining and the quirky Kitchen-TV. Johannisstrasse 76-80, 50668 Cologne, Germany; 49-221 94222 5605; www.colognemarriott.com
art’otel cologne: The permanent art exhibit of Korean artist Seo, is the focus and influence of this chic new hotel on the Rhine River. White walls create the perfect backdrop for the colorful art and furniture accents in all 218 rooms. Holzmarkt 4, 50676 Cologne, Germany; 49 2218 010 30, from U.S. call 1-800-791-9161; www.artotels.com
Hotel im Wasserturm: Luxurious and sophisticated hotel housed in 130-year-old water tower. Beautifully designed one-of-a-kind rooms by Andrée Putman. Kaygasse 2, 50676 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 200 80; www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de
Where to Eat & Drink:
Fou Brasserie: Located within the Cologne Marriott, this French brasserie serves a wide array of dishes, from steaks to seafood to more simple fare. During the summer the outside terrace serves from a tapas menu. Johannisstrasse 76-80, 50668 Cologne, Germany; 49-221 94222 5605. www.colognemarriott.com
Osman 30: Take in the amazing views from the 30th floor of this eatery. Considered one of the best in the city, this restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine; great wine list. Reservations are highly recommended. Im Mediapark 8, 50670 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 5005 20 80; www.osman-cologne.de
La Vision: Awarded one Michelin star, this gourmet restaurant in the Hotel im Wasserturm has indoor and outdoor seating with fantastic views of Cologne. Be prepared for classic dining with daily changing menu. Proper attire and reservations are necessary. Kaygasse 2, 50676 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 200 80; www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de
Café Reichard: Enjoy a drink, coffee or dessert in this quintessentially European café facing the Cathedral. During the summer, the terrace is packed with locals and visitors alike admiring the Dom. Unter Fettenhennen 11, 50667 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 257 8542; www.cafe-reichard.de
Bar Tabac: This French bistro with international options has an extensive cocktail menu. Located near Rudolplatz, Bar Tabac has a large dining room perfect for larger parties and a sidewalk café during summer. Aachener Straße 21, 50674 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 258 9219; www.bartabac.de
What to See & Do:
Kölner Dom/ Cologne Cathedral: The world’s largest Gothic cathedral is also the symbol of the city. Impossible to miss. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Trankgasse 4, 50667 Cologne, Germany; www.koelner-dom.de.
Romanesque Churches: Built in Medieval times, these 12 churches are spread throughout the city center. For specific location and history, visit www.cologne-tourism.com.
Museum Ludwig: Dedicated to modern and postmodern art, this museum houses and extensive Picasso collection, along with a variety of art made after 1900. Heinrich-Böll-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 221 26165; www.museenkoeln.de/museum-ludwig
Kölner Philharmonie: Cologne’s main concert hall is home to two symphony orchestras, in addition to stageing other musical performances. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1, 50667 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 204 080; www.koelner-philharmonie.de
Cologne Musical Dome: This large blue dome stages its own sit-down musicals as well as touring shows and concerts. Goldgasse 1, 50668 Cologne, Germany; 49 221 5779 0 www.musical-dome.de
Cologne Carnival: The party season happens between November 11 and Ash Wednesday, with the main parade on Rose Monday. With over 12,000 costumed participants crowding the floats and streets, this Carnival is considered one of the best in Europe. For more information visit www.koelnerkarneval.de
BierBike: Tour the streets of Cologne, drinking beer, while pedaling a 16-seat bar on wheels. Great as a group activity, it is important to reserve ahead of time. 49 221 800 4260; www.bierbike-koeln.de