Galway and the Aran Islands
Several years ago I had one of the best vacations of my life when I traveled around the West of Ireland, particularly in counties Galway and Mayo, taking in its dramatic scenery and catching up with family—my father was born in Mayo and I still have cousins there. Perhaps the most memorable day was the one I spent at the Galway Races, the annual one-week horseracing event that takes place in late July and is basically a big party with festivities going on all over Galway, one of Ireland’s most picturesque and lively cities. While in Ireland, several people told me that if I enjoyed the Races, I should also check out the International Galway Oyster Festival held each September so I made a mental note to do just that. And while it’s taken awhile, I was finally able to book a trip to Ireland last fall to coincide with the festival. I’d also planned on spending a few days revisiting some of my favorites regions including Connemara with its wild, windswept vistas and cozying up to a peat fire in traditional pubs.
A friend and I arrived at Shannon Airport, rented a car and headed to our first destination—Connemara, a verdant area west of Galway City that in my humble opinion has some of Ireland’s most spectacular landscapes. Along the main N59 road, you’ll pass crystal clear lakes, expansive peat bogs, and fog-covered emerald hills and after the inevitable rain showers, single and even double rainbows arching across the sky. The classic John Wayne film, the Quiet Man was filmed here and at Maam Cross, you can stand on the stone bridge used in the film and take a photo in front of a replica thatched cottage. At the village of Leenane, on the border of Galway and Mayo counties is Killary Fjord, the country’s only fjord. Boats offer pleasure cruises around the calm nine-mile inlet (be sure to have your camera ready) and nearby is Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful Benedictine monastery housed in a 19th century castle. The gift shop is stocked with Irish books and CDS, wool sweaters, Celtic jewelry and Waterford crystal.
The West of Ireland is also known for its country house hotels, many of which are family owned. One such place is the Cashel House Hotel in the small village of Cashel in the heart of Connemara. After a long day’s drive through the desolate landscape, I was quite happy to sit beside a turf fire in one of the elegant parlors with an Irish coffee as rain pelted against the windows. Cashel’s cuisine regularly receives nationwide accolades so after a pre-dinner glass of wine in the bar overlooking a flower-filled lawn, we dined in the conservatory restaurant on local scallops and Connemara lamb seasoned with herbs from its own gardens. I couldn’t help but notice all the couples—it’s quite the romantic getaway.
The next day, we headed for the Aran Islands, off the coast of Galway. I have been to Ireland close to ten times but this remote trio of islands has thus far eluded me so this time I was determined. Though you can take a ferry, it’s easier and more scenic to take a small plane for the 15-minute flight to Inisheer, the smallest of the three with a rugged, rocky terrain. One of its main attractions, aside from a wide, crescent-shaped swimming beach, includes the ruins of a hilltop castle from the 16th century. Seafood lunches (try the seaweed scones!) are served at the Fisherman’s Cottage restaurant. Inishmore, the largest island, boasts Dun Aengus, a pre-Christian stone ring fort sitting majestically atop a 300-foot cliff. It takes about a half hour to climb to the top and the views are well worth the effort. Afterward, you’ve earned a meal at the always-busy Ti Joe Watty’s pub/restaurant where you can dine on mushroom soup and mussels with a garlic cream sauce, sing along to the live music and chat with the friendly owners PJ and Grace.
I had checked many things off my list that I’d wanted to do but now it was time for the big finale—oysters! After checking into the Meyrick Hotel, on centrally located Eyre Square, it was time to party. This annual three-day bash (tickets are needed for most events) kicked off with a Champagne reception with unlimited Galway Bay oysters shucked just seconds before, followed by a three course sit-down dinner where a band kept things lively (expect to be up on the dance floor more than once). Throughout the weekend events included a family-friendly parade along the city’s cobbled streets, an exciting oyster-shucking contest with entrants from all over the world including France, Canada, Sweden, the US, and of course, Ireland (Sweden won), some world-class step-dancing exhibitions and culminated in a black-tie gala where the Best Dressed Lady was crowned (if I had known about this, I certainly would have brought some dressier clothes!). We had an enormous amount of fun, gorging on fresh oysters and chatting up everyone from a Boston couple on their honeymoon to a group of friends from London in town for a stag party. It was certainly a great atmosphere, or great “craic,” as they say in Ireland.
Even if you don’t come for the festival, Galway is buzzing, no matter what time of year. On just about every street you’ll hear music coming out of doorways, especially in the city’s historic Latin Quarter. Stop in for a pint of Guinness or a wee dram of Jameson’s Irish whisky at pubs like Tig Coili on Mainguard Street and listen to local and traveling musicians make melodic magic with the bodhran (a goatskin drum), uillean pipes (similar to bagpipes), fiddle and tin whistle—anything from U2 to Danny Boy to the Rocky Road to Dublin. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay and I am feverishly trying to plan my next Celtic adventure. Well, the Galway Arts Festival does take place in mid-July. Slainte!
The international dialing code for Ireland is 353.
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Where to Sleep:
Cashel House: At the head of Cashel Bay, this family-owned country house hotel has antique-filled rooms and numerous parlors. Guests can stroll the flower-lined garden paths, play a game of tennis and the hotel can arrange pickup from Galway Airport. Cashel, Connemara, 353-95-31001, www.cashel-house-hotel.com
Kilmurvey House: This B&B with 12 clean and comfortable rooms is just steps away from the entrance of the Dun Aengus, the ancient ring fort. Savor a delicious Irish breakfast in the morning served by friendly staff before heading out to explore. Kilmurvey, Kilronan, 353-99-61218, www.kilmurveyhouse.com
Meyrick Hotel: Located on Galway’s main square, this Victorian-style 97-room hotel is a quick walk to the Latin Quarter and its restaurants and pubs. Guests can have a seafood dinner in the elegant Oyster Grill followed by drinks in Fagan’s, sports bar. Eyre Square, 353-91-564-041, www.hotelmeyrick.ie
G Hotel: Just minutes from the city center, this 101-room hotel is popular with those in the fashion and entertainment industry. In addition to its sleek cocktail bars and a gourmet restaurant, its spa offers marine mud wraps and hot stone massages. Wellpark, 353-91-865-200, www.theghotel.ie
Where to Eat and Drink:
Cashel House : The hotel’s conservatory restaurant is known throughout the region for its gourmet cuisine. Though the menu changes expect local seafood and Connemara lamb. Afternoon tea complete with scones and clotted cream is also served here. Cashel, Connemara, 353-95-31001, www.cashel-house-hotel.com
Ti Joe Watty’s: Known throughout the Aran Islands, this charming pub has surprisingly good food and an impressive wine list, as well as live music where you might hear anything from traditional songs to Billy Joel. On warm days, sit out in the beer garden. Kilronan, 353-99-20892, www.joewattys.com
G Hotel : Chef Stefan Matz’s menu features contemporary Irish dishes with European influences including duck confit salad, medallion of Irish beef with a red onion marmalade and loin of venison with wild mushroom and risotto cake. Wellpark, 353-91-865-200, www.theghotel.ie
Mustard Seed: This award-winning restaurant within Echo Lodge, an elegant country house hotel near Adare (less than an hour to Shannon Airport) offers Irish pork loin with a plum and walnut chutney and pan-seared duck with a squash emulsion. Ballingary, County Limerick, 353-69-68508, www.mustardseed.ie
Must Do and See:
Kylemore Abbey: Kylemore Abbey, a Benedictine monastery housed in a 19th century castle made from granite and limestone, has several historic rooms open for tours. There’s also a walled garden, a cafeteria and a well-stocked craft shop selling Irish products. Kylemore, Connemara, 353-95-52000, www.kylemoreabbey.com
Dun Aengus Ring Fort: The largest ring fort on the Aran Islands, Dun Aengus sits on a 300-foot high cliff and dates back to the Bronze Age. Visitors can climb to the top—it’s a bit of a steep climb on some loose rocks but the fabulous views make it worth the effort. Inishmore, Galway
Tig Coili: This popular pub with a red façade in the heart of Galway’s lively Latin Quarter is one of the city’s main places to hear traditional live Irish music. Every night of the week, listen to local and traveling musicians while sipping a pint of Guinness. Mainguard Street, Galway, 353-91-561-294
International Galway Oyster Festival
It’s never too early to start planning your trip to the festival; this year’s dates are September 21-25. Expect oyster-and-Champagne receptions, a black tie gala, a parade, bands and other entertainment as well as an oyster-shucking contest. www.galwayoysterfest.com
For more information on Galway and the surrounding areas log on to www.discoverireland.com .