Setting Sail for French Polynesia
If you’re like any seasoned traveler – the kind of globetrotter who collects passport stamps and does not consider Disneyland a vacation destination – then you’ve probably rolled your eyes at the thought of a cruise. I get it. Until recently, I was decidedly anti-cruise. And then last spring I had the opportunity to go to French Polynesia, home to islands such as Bora Bora and Moorea described by the book, 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, as “the world’s most gorgeous island.” The catch – it was aboard a cruise. Unable to pass up the opportunity to visit this Polynesian paradise, I signed up for the dreaded “c” word, not knowing at the time that the beauty that was Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea and the other islands I visited would be equally matched by the pleasure afforded me aboard the m/s Paul Gauguin.
Setting sail from Tahiti, French Polynesia’s “bustling” capital, the m/s Paul Gauguin is the highest-rated and longest continually sailing luxury cruise ship in the South Pacific. Paul Gauguin Cruises offers seven different itineraries: Tahiti and the Society Islands (seven nights, five destinations); Tahiti and the Society Islands (seven nights, six destinations); Society Islands and Tuamotus (10 nights, seven destinations); Cook Islands and Society Islands (11 nights, seven destinations); Australs and Society Islands (11 nights, eight destinations); Marquesas, Tuamotus, and Society Islands (14 nights, 10 destinations); and the South Pacific Discovery, a 17 night cruise with ten destinations plus three nights in Sydney. With that kind of flexibility, cruisers can choose what experience best suits their wants, needs and budget. Additionally, passengers have the option of extending their trip with pre- and post-cruise stays, at various InterContinental resorts, among the best hotels in French Polynesia. I chose the seven night Tahiti and Society Islands itinerary, which took me to Tahiti, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, and Moorea, possibly the five most beautiful places I have ever been and ever will be.
So why choose to cruise to French Polynesia? For one thing, The Gauguin is less a cruise than a floating luxury boutique hotel but we’ll get to that later. Unlike going to other resort destinations like the Caribbean, to truly experience the region, you really should see more than one island. All visitors arrive in Tahiti but most stay only a night or two before moving on to other islands, one more beautiful than the next. While Bora Bora and Moorea are the most popular, and certainly enough to make for a special vacation, there are plenty of other drop-dead-gorgeous islands, each one possessing a unique beauty and character and the more you see the better. So, why not island hop to each of these little heavenly delights from the base of a ship rather than flying back and forth and holing up at a different hotel in each destination? One bed, one check-in, one unpack and a minimum of five, maximum ten, destinations. By choosing to explore French Polynesia this way, travelers see more and pay less and actually enjoy the journey as much as the islands. Also, as The Gauguin is a relatively small ship, it can maneuver all the small inlets and cozy harbors, something the big ships can’t do.
Now back to my previous anti-cruise mentality. Prior to boarding, I had visions of gluttonous buffets and Catskills-style entertainment running through my head. I feared dingy cabins with little portholes from which I would look longingly towards dry land. Upon boarding, however, I saw nothing dingy but instead a large, bright and comfortable stateroom with balcony. My fear of claustrophobia and cheesy décor vanished. All of The Gauguin’s 166 staterooms have sea views and 70% have private balconies. Both staterooms and suites feature marble bathrooms with tub and shower, bathrobes, slippers, TV’s, CD/DVD players, personal safes and many more amenities. The Owner’s Suites, GS Grand Suites, Veranda Suites and Veranda Staterooms include butler service. I was quickly approached by my cabin steward, who introduced herself and told me to let her know if there was anything I needed at any time. She reminded me that my refrigerator was fully stocked with complimentary beverages to be replenished whenever I liked and in fact, every meal, snack, and beverage (including alcohol) was complimentary, a big plus in my book.
And the food? In abundance, yes. Depressingly gluttonous? No. Surprisingly delicious and consistently impressive, absolutely. There are three restaurants: Le Grill, which serves buffet breakfast and poolside lunch as well as an indoor/outdoor dinner with grilled specialties; La Veranda, serving indoor/outdoor breakfast, lunch and a refined, French dinner; and L’Etoile, serving exceptional French cuisine with Polynesian flavor. Each meal was truly excellent, most prepared with local ingredients and specialties (such as a decadent lobster in Tahitian vanilla sauce that I still dream of).
The ship offered plenty of onboard entertainment so if you’re the type that needs constant stimuli, you’ll be happy. There’s a casino and several bars, including a piano bar and a lounge/nightclub featuring live music and an indoor/outdoor dance floor. Le Grand Salon has nightly shows where the entertainers (including the Gauguines, beautiful Polynesian performers) are amusing and professional with minimum cheese-factor and lots of pure Polynesian fun. I spent most nights on the upper deck, sipping champagne under the stars and dancing in the outdoor lounge which says a lot about the comfort factor since I go dancing about once every five years.
Perhaps what I appreciated most was the staff, and how committed they were to making my stay enjoyable, as well as teaching me about French Polynesia; apparently it’s more than just a pretty face. There are onboard experts who passionately educate guests about the islands, including renowned marine biologists, anthropologists specializing in the region and marine and wildlife educators. There’s also the Ambassadors of the Environment Youth Program, begun by Jean-Michel Cousteau, which introduces young cruisers to the wonders of Polynesia’s marine life and environment. And the watersports marina, a true highlight of the ship, featured a specially designed retractable platform combining recreation with marine education. There guests descended to sea level where they could hop aboard a windsurfer, launch a kayak, waterski or scuba dive in the world’s most beautiful waters. A scuba certification program is also offered on board.
Finally, there are the islands themselves, for as wonderful as the cruising experience is, it was the spectacularly beautiful French Polynesian islands that I remember most. They have provided innumerable memories to which I return every dreary, cold or simply stressful day since. There’s Bora Bora, with its striking volcanic mountain and Technicolor waters where I swam with reef sharks and pet stingrays as friendly as puppies. There’s Moorea, the “green island,” a picture perfect paradise where they are dedicated to self-protection and environmental activism. There’s Taha’a, the vanilla island, lush and untouched, where I counted rainbow sightings on two hands and learned how to farm black pearls. On Bora Bora I visited Paul Gauguin’s private beach, a secluded slice of heaven surrounded by nothing but warm, shallow, crystal clear waters. In Taha’a I visited a private motu (an island within a lagoon), where I swam, sipped pina coladas out of coconuts and tasted freshly made poisson cru, the local version of ceviche. In Moorea I rode waverunners, ate pineapple as sweet as candy and swam with dolphins. It’s no wonder that I shed a few tears on the flight home.
In February of 2012 The Gauguin underwent a massive, $7 million renovation which modernized and beautified the already lovely ship. Updates include new flooring and carpeting, stylish furniture and window treatments, decorative wall panels and new teak railings on the balconies. The restaurants, lounges, and promenades got new, modern furnishings as well and the casino was enlarged. I think I just might have to return.
Apparently, once in a while you can teach an old traveler new tricks. I fell madly in love with French Polynesia, in my mind the most beautiful place in the world and surprisingly, also fell in love with cruising. There, I said it. I cruised, and I loved it.
HELPFUL HINTS
A cruise is only as good as its excursions. After all, if you just want to stay onboard all day, exploring nothing but your stateroom and the bar, it’s probably not worth it. The Gauguin’s excursion choices are plentiful and designed to allow for maximum exposure to the islands. Here are five of the fabulous options:
Rays and Snorkeling by Jetboat in Bora Bora
Tour the island aboard a high-speed boat, stopping to snorkel in a colorful coral garden. Then coast over to the shallow waters just off Matira’s white sandy beach, where your captain will drop anchor. Swim with stingrays (and possibly a school of harmless reef sharks) and relax on the beach to ukulele music while savoring a fresh fruit cocktail.
Dolphin-Watching Expedition in Moorea
Join marine biologist Dr. Michael Poole, a dolphin expert, in a combination eco-tour and research expedition focusing on wild, free-ranging dolphins. Spinner dolphins, rough-tooth dolphins, and pilot whales can be seen around Moorea, and as you observe them, you’ll learn about French Polynesia’s geology and evolution while viewing Moorea’s dramatic beauty from the sea.
Scuba the Nordby at Night in Raiatea
Explore the wreck of a ship that sank during a storm in 1900 while also observing lion fish and nudibranches.
Snorkel and Black Pearl Farm Adventure in Taha’a
Visit a working pearl farm and learn about French Polynesia’s beautiful black pearls (with the opportunity to purchase some), then continue on to a small motu for snorkeling in crystal-clear waters.
Sunset Blue Lagoon Escapade in Bora Bora
Set sail aboard a luxury, 23-foot Jeanneau Cap Camarat 715WA for a private sunset cruise to Bora Bora’s idyllic lagoon. Sip champagne while watching the sun set magnificently over Bora Bora’s stunning sea.
For more information on Paul Gauguin Cruises:
www.pgcruises.com