A smörgåsbord is a type of Scandinavian meal with a wide variety of hot and cold dishes served buffet style. What could be better than to accompany it with a cruise on the Baltic Sea to a smörgåsbord of Scandinavian islands? We recently did just that on Celebrity Cruise’s Constellation enjoying sumptuous, international buffets. Before our 12 nights at sea began, we opted to join a pre-cruise tour of Paris and Amsterdam, beginning with an adventure in Paris.
The closer we got to the Eiffel Tower, known as the “Grande Dame,” the more souvenirs of her likeness we saw while threading through traffic. Vendors lined the sidewalks selling miniature, metal replicas of this engineering feat that once served as the entrance arch for the 1889 World’s Fair. We strolled along the Seine and viewed the Princess Diana memorial adjacent to the Pont de l’Alma tunnel, so reminiscent of the “Imagine” mosaic dedication to John Lennon at “Strawberry Fields” in New York’s Central Park. Fans shower both sites with flowers daily.
Still a bit jet lagged, we slept well that night and were ready for an organized tour the following morning. Among the highlights was the imposing Arc De Triomphe — inspiration for the Washington Square arch in New York City. At 77 feet high, the Greenwich Village replica is less than half the size of its Parisian counterpart. Later we met up with Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo at the Louvre. It seemed their social calendars were booked solid; we had to wait a while to meet them face to face. Photographers should check out the terrace at Café Marly for wonderful shots of the Pyramide du Louvre below.
The following morning saw us trading in Paris for Amsterdam aboard the Thalys international high-speed train. The three hour and 16-minute trip was more comfortable than flying. After arriving, we jumped on a private boat to cruise some of the Dutch city’s 165 canals. Along with the Skinny Bridge, Twin Houses and the Amsterdam harbor, we viewed the EYE Film Institute Netherlands which Queen Beatrix officially opened last year. We stayed at the beautiful Renaissance Hotel in downtown Amsterdam where club-level guests gathered in the chic lounge at night to enjoy soft drinks, cocktails and edibles. At 8:45 a.m. the next morning, we arrived at the Anne Frank House on Prinsengracht Canal to witness a rapidly growing line. A word of advice: book in advance or arrive by 8:00 a.m. to avoid hours waiting for this important site.
After exploring the multilevel house with its tragic past, we left to see the Portuguese Synagogue which was built in the 17th century. This Sephardic synagogue, although more capacious, reminded us of two other synagogues that we’d visited — Shaare Shalom synagogue in Kingston, Jamaica and Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue in Willemstad, Curacao — all founded as a result of the Jewish Diaspora from the Iberian Peninsula.
Our sadness to leave the continent behind abated upon entering the majestic Constellation. The Seafood Scampi that night at the chic San Marco Restaurant for dinner, supervised by Executive Chef Jason Banyon, was outstanding. On sea days, we engaged in copious activities and deck 10 became our favorite. There we alternated between two outdoor pools, one shallow for wading and the other deep for serious laps. The adjacent 25,000 square foot AquaSpa complex housed an impressive glass and steel solarium, the answer for chilly Scandinavian days. We spent many sea days in the adults only thalasso therapy pool and worked out in the well-equipped gym.
Ocean Liners, the formal French restaurant, cooked our lobster tableside and served it with a delicious sauce — butter, mustard and herbs. Tuscan Grille, the other specialty restaurant, offered Italian cuisine in an intimate setting. Our server presented us with an oversized, antipasto platter first that offered many fresh options.
Warnemünde, Germany was the first port on the itinerary. Many of the passengers opted to take the three-hour bus ride to Berlin, but we decided to stay in Rostock and swim in the Baltic Sea. Recommended is the roundtrip train ride to Neuer Markt (only $5) — Rostock’s medieval city center. The Hanseatic architecture is imposing — be sure to visit St. Mary’s Church where you’ll see one of the world’s oldest, working astronomical clocks from 1472.
After two days at sea we docked in Stockholm and navigated Gamla stan (The Old Town). Its medieval alleyways, narrow cobblestone streets and pale yellow and brick red buildings date to the 13th century. Saint James Catholic Church looked like an artist’s palette with its muted reds and greens. We split our time in Sweden also exploring the serene town of Nynäshamn, about 35 miles south of Stockholm. Hundreds of sailboats color the fishing harbor. Souvenirs, ice cream, local beer and antiques are sold in red, wooden booths. We stopped into Nynäs Rökeri — a shop and restaurant offering an array of smoked fish. The delectable shrimp was our favorite.
Overnight, we made our way to Helsinki — Market Square is a good starting point to Finland’s capital city. The open-air markets purvey fresh Finnish food — fruit, vegetables, fish, even reindeer salami. The harbor is brimming with cafés and restaurants where throngs of locals and tourists enjoyed dining in a beautiful Baltic Sea setting. After lunch, we walked to nearby Senate Square — the oldest part of the city center. The Government Palace and University of Helsinki’s main building frame the spectacular Helsinki Cathedral with its five green domes. Cable cars with overhead wires add a cobwebby effect to the skyline.
That night, we tested our luck in the ship’s lively Fortunes Casino. After winning a few dollars playing blackjack, we retired early anticipating two jam-packed days in St. Petersburg, Russia. Breakfast in the Oceanview Café got us primed for our city tour. The former capital, founded by Peter the Great in 1703, boasts some of the most beautiful sights in the world. The renowned Hermitage Museum is Russia’s answer to the Louvre and Peterhof Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its Versailles, is replete with palaces and gardens. Magnificent gold fountains spout water in all directions.
The interior of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral (1858) was the most resplendent we’d ever seen — the construction spanning four decades. The works of the Great Russian Masters adorn the present day museum with paintings, mosaics, rich sculptures and stained-glass windows.
After two days of Russian grandeur we were off to Estonia. Passing through Viru Gate — the entrance to Old Town Tallinn — transports one back to the Middle Ages. We marveled at the cobblestone streets and medieval buildings during our leisurely walk to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and Town Hall Square, which dates to the 14th century. The entire town is a UNESCO site!
A few years ago, we had the pleasure of dining at Padaste Manor’s five-star Alexander restaurant — two hours away on Muhu Island — rated number one in Estonia for the last three years. Its younger sister, neh, in Old Town Tallinn is a 10 minute walk from the port. There you’ll indulge in the exquisite, tasting menu ($85) — dehydrated beet-and-carrot root with herb remoulade and kohlrabi spaghetti with celeriac and apple are just two of the surprises. We devoured a herring appetizer in a clear, glass jar filled with smoke and a cucumber sorbet that took a page out of the book of molecular gastronomist Ferran Adrià. The dessert contained cucumber only — no additives — and was so fabulous that we had seconds.
Shortly after arriving in Copenhagen, our last port, we made our way to New Harbor (Nyhavn) — one of the most picturesque districts in Europe. Rainbow hued buildings, reminiscent of the ones in Willemstad, Curacao, serve as a backdrop to the city’s vibrant waterfront, dating from the 17th-century and a mecca for restaurants, bars and entertainment.
We decided to walk back to the ship in order to see Copenhagen’s famous Little Mermaid. The five-foot mascot was perched on her traditional boulder after traveling to the World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, China and withstanding many acts of vandalism. She has been bombed and left floating in the harbor, decapitated more than once and painted several times — what a “rocky” past.
Back on board, we treated ourselves to Danish smørrebrød (open sandwiches) and frikadeller (meat balls) with pickled gherkins and sweet dill mustard sauce — the Oceanview Café features a national buffet at each port. The worst part about returning home was having to cook again!
After an extraordinary experience at sea, we departed from Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport early the next morning. Since we had booked our London connection for later that evening, we had an entire day to explore the most visited city in Europe. We could not have made a better choice than taking the 40 minute London Eye River Cruise. The angles along the Thames River shoreline — under the Tower Bridge, around the Palace of Westminster and through scores of other bridges — made for great photographs.
When in England, definitely do afternoon tea at the 5-star London Marriott Hotel County Hall. The luxurious Library Lounge is full of old world charm with stunning views of Big Ben and the Thames. The British tradition is accompanied by finger sandwiches, scones, homemade cakes, jams and clotted cream. Why not celebrate the moment with a glass of Champagne? We were presented with a large wooden box containing a dozen exotic teas — “Long Jin Green,” “2nd Flush Darjeeling” — narrowing it down was difficult. Then it was off to the airport again as our JFK flight beckoned.
Enhancing a cruise has many rewards, whether it’s a land tour before (CruiseTour as Celebrity calls it) or simply a “layover” excursion. We were able to supplement a six-country European itinerary with three fabulous cities. We’d never do it any other way again!
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Note from the Author:
*Prices for the 12 night Scandinavia & Russia itinerary range from $1,599-$1,999 for an inside cabin and $3,899-$5,249 for a suite, depending on departure dates (May-August). Pre-cruise land tours are not being offered in 2014.