Cruising the Mediterranean

It’s not that high I tell myself after committing to be the first to climb a rope ladder to the crow’s nest of a tall sailing ship – my home on water for a week. Not one to break my word (at least not with so many witnesses), I’m secured into a safety harness. Stepping one foot above the other in my steady ascension of the ship’s mast, I am pulled onto a wooden platform and greeted by an unparalleled reward – a 360-degree bird’s eye view of the Mediterranean Sea from atop the Star Flyer.

 

A member of the Star Clippers’ fleet, the Star Flyer is the oldest in a family of three of the world’s largest and tallest sailing vessels. Back-in-the-day-style boats equipped with 21^st century yacht-like lures, the fleet began as a love affair between Swedish owner and yachtsman, Mikael Krafft, and the classic sailing clippers that ruled the waves in the 1800s. In the book Star Clipper Saga, he explains: “In 1987 I decided to build a genuine large sailing ship with the wind as the most important source of power. No one had done that for almost a hundred years. The ship should resemble old clippers in hull, yet be designed to accommodate some 150 guests. In my new clipper, I wanted to include all the romance of sailing and style that you might find on a large sailing yacht.”

Four years later in 1991 his dream became a reality with the introduction of the Star Flyer (170 passengers/72 crew/16 sails). A year later its sister ship, Star Clipper, entered onto the scene. In 2000 the five-mast, full rigger Royal Clipper (227 passengers/106 crew/42 sails) set sail; and debuting late 2017 is the Flying Clipper (300 passengers/140 crew/35 sails).

As a sailing ship the rules are a bit different than on a typical cruise ship but the experiences are just as exceptional.  So, with wind in my hair and a salty breeze in my face, I dive in. Unlike most cruises, Star Flyer has an open bridge policy to observe the captain and crew at work — from charting the courses to maneuvering the controls. The only trick is to request permission to enter. Then there’s lying in the bowsprit’s trapeze-like netting suspended just a few feet above the water as the ship skims the waves toward its next port (color me jealous when a previous passenger recounts her bowsprit adventure alongside a pod of dolphins).

Port departures deliver dramatic memories. With passengers onboard and all hands on deck, sheets flap and sails unfurl as the ship’s four masts are scaled to the background music of Vangelis’1492:  Conquest of Paradise – and then the Star Flyer sets sail.

Departing from Barcelona, anticipation is high for the upcoming week at sea and visits to Mediterranean hot spots like Palma de Mallorca, both Bonifacio and Calvi on the French island of Corsica and finally St-Tropez. At embarkation, there’s live music – Peter (from Slovakia) on keyboards playing Beyond the Sea. As cruise director Steffi (from Germany) says, “A ship without music is impossible.” Our welcome aboard drink named the Bon Voyage is liberally poured in the alfresco Tropical Bar (each day featuring a specialty cocktail) as Captain Mariusz Szalek (from Poland) greets all who step onto the high-gloss deck. One word describes the atmosphere:  enthralling.

During my initial exploration of the compact ship, I discover a cozy library, an intimate piano bar and several salt water pools (all fleet-wide standards). Reflective of Star Clippers’ rich maritime heritage, décor is nautical with expansive teak decks, gleaming mahogany railings and polished brass appointments. Inclusive of the amenities typically found on traditional ships, each of the Star Clippers’ fleet is also small enough to visit off the beaten path ports that are typically inaccessible to larger cruising vessels and their smaller size allows guests to readily get to know one another.

Passengers Jan and Mike English, both avid sailors from Princeton, Illinois, transfer their affection for sailing their 33-foot boat on Lake Michigan in their downtime to sailing with the Star Flyer on vacation. They appreciate the vessel’s comparatively diminutive size (360 feet) in contrast to today’s ships, many of which measure over 1,000 feet in length and carry thousands of guests. “Mike would never cruise on a mega-liner,” says Jan. “We prefer ships with 200 passengers or less and love making friends from all over the world.”

In agreement are their newly acquired friends, Louise and Rafi Glaser from Sydney, Australia. Veterans of 25 cruises, including a 3,500-passenger ship, Rafi says of the experience: “We didn’t like it. To me, it’s the informal, intimate ease of the Star Flyer that I most enjoy.”

With no casino, no musical revues and no rigid schedule – only the reward of unconstrained time to do nothing or sample everything – here are some low key, Star Flyer-style options: learning the art of napkin folding from the wait staff, the secret to cocktail mixing with the bartender and the skill of knot tying with a deck cadet. For seafaring types there’s pulling the lines and hoisting the sails; and if it’s a beach day, activities range from swimming and windsurfing to waterskiing, kayaking and snorkeling. With casual elegance as the dress code (no formal gowns or black-tie required) – even packing is a breeze.

“This is a sailing ship, so I know you want to sail,” announces Captain Szalek during his first-day introduction. “Trust that as much as we can, we’ll be sailing.” His explanation as to why the Star Flyer is sometimes under power: “There’s no bad wind – there’s either no wind or there’s wind – all you need is time,” which for a ship with a set itinerary can sometimes be a limited commodity.

That said, here is the line-up of ports and each stops’ perks:

• Barcelona

A city of matchless sights and quirky draws such as both shoe and chocolate museums, Barcelona seems to have something for everyone. The Picasso Museum features the country’s best collection of the artist’s masterpieces and the works of the famous architect, Antoni Gaudi, are equally masterful. These include the Sagrada Familia (called “a church in progress” because it remains incomplete, though he worked on it for 43 years until his death in 1926); Casa Milà, once described as “the famous melting-ice-cream creation,” and Casa Batlió, which is known for its almost exclusively curved construction. These structures define the superlative nature of this visionary man’s creativity. After viewing them it seems inconceivable that the word “gaudy” is not derived from the architect’s surname (apparently there is no connection).

Las Ramblas, one of Europe’s most famous streets, is one of Barcelona’s best known tourist haunts. A lively tree-lined pedestrian walkway with distractions at every intersection, one delicious detour is La Boqueria Market to sample the local food and drink.

Tip:  Observe (or better yet, participate in) one of this Catalan city’s most characteristic traditions – the Sardana dance. Forming a circle, participants hold hands, raise their arms in slow motion (think Zorba the Greek) and sway to the music for one to two hours.

• Palma de Mallorca

Its old town is known for meandering alleyways punctuated with busy plazas and old aristocratic mansions.  Sample the charming cafes and endless coffee shops or take a horse-drawn carriage ride. It’s also the home of its namesake’s pearl.  Sights to see include the Cathedral, Spain’s second largest Gothic church, and its hillside Bellver Castle – if for nothing else other than the views.

Tip:  Explore and enjoy Palma by nibbling and imbibing – from paella and sangria to hot chocolate and ensaimada crema, a spiral-shaped Mallorcan pastry with cream cheese filling.

• Mahón

Its colorful history – an 80 year British occupation – remains reflective today, whether it’s the capital’s four-story Georgian townhouses, its citizens’ affinity for gin or its English speaking residents. From the port a steep walk up several flights of steps is necessary to reach the town center; but the reward of the Stairmaster-like effort is a panorama of the island of Minorca.

Tip: Take home a piece of Mahón – it’s known for leather goods (particularly its own distinct style of shoes), local cheeses, gin and wine.

• Bonifacio

To reach the picturesque town, it’s necessary to sail between two stony promontories. Just as in olden times, it is a demonstration of seamanship which excludes many larger cruise ships. Comprised of an upper and lower town, each has its own character. Two gates mark the entrance into the upper town’s medieval village – a network of narrow cobbled streets, charming squares and intimate eateries.  Lower town sits by the marina and features a trendier scene, complete with cafes and boutiques.

Tip:  For less than 3 Euros, walk the Escalier du Roi d’Aragon (King Aragon Steps) – a staircase cut into stone, perched over the sea and hugging the cliff. Consisting of 187 steep steps, legend says it was originally carved by soldiers overnight during the siege of 1420. Regardless of its origins, its prize is a priceless view of the Mediterranean.

• Calvi

One of Corsica’s northernmost points, it too has an upper and lower town. The upper town centers on its ancient citadel, and its lower town is replete with cafes, boutiques and a seaside promenade. However, Calvi is also known for its surrounding hills covered with olive, citrus and fig trees. A popular side trip, by taxi or even motor scooter, is to the ancient village of Sant’Antonino. One of the island’s oldest inhabited towns and named one of France’s “most beautiful villages,” it’s perched on a small mountaintop and visible for miles.

Tip:  Grab a beachside table at one of the many restaurants alongside the lower town’s harbor for prime people watching and delicious downtime.

• St-Tropez

Of this tony town’s reputation for over-the-top opulence, it’s been said: “If you came here for history or quaintness, you caught the wrong yacht.” Founded by artists, it wasn’t until Brigitte Bardot’s 1956 film, “And God Created Woman” that it became synonymous with the Riviera’s glamour. Though its populace is 5,700 year-round residents, each summer translates to a deluge of 100,000-plus daily visitors. This is the scene:  pastel tinted houses, boutiques with names like Brigitte B and vintage Tiffany and bling everywhere.

Tip:  To get the feel of the residents’ St-Tropez, head to the town’s central park, Place des Lices, and observe a serious game of boules every day or the popular flea market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

So, what’s the bottom line?

Though not your standard cruise ship, Star Flyer is loaded with crossover appeal – for typical travelers, it’s distinctive; for seasoned sailors, it’s comfortable and for eternal explorers, it’s the epitome.