de la Cava
Lights, camera, action!
The Squire recently took you backstage for a glimpse of culinary theater in New York City, courtesy of the Bocuse D’Or. Now imagine flipping the coin and sitting in the front row of the orchestra in Santo Domingo. Such is the feeling when the curtain goes up on dinner at El Meson de la Cava and all the restaurant’s lucky guests will be riveted. This underground hideaway, which is said to have served as a stomping ground for pirates, is a must for anyone lucky enough to be visiting the sensuous city of Santo Domingo. Its unconventional cave like setting pushes the envelope and promises a memorable meal among the elite of the capital city of the Dominican Republic.
We descended a narrow, winding staircase into a cinematic cave worthy of Indiana Jones, and after inching along a circuitous tunnel lit by lanterns wedged among rock formations, our eyes came to rest on a large, black baroque chandelier dripping with crystals – shades of the Phantom of the Opera, eh? I found myself wondering, where’s the organ music and when will Christine Daae make an appearance?
Stalactite shaped lighting hung from the craggy ceiling above and the cavernous interior (the real thing, fyi) was festooned with mossy vines and leafy ivy. Everywhere you looked your eyes feasted on decoration, and the well heeled patrons echoed the dining room’s demeanor. It was like dining in a Disney fantasy and while it may sound bizarre, it’s far more exciting than The Lion King and among the finest restaurants in this capital city.
The menu is literally an opus, and everything gets a standing ovation here. Servers in tuxedos brandished plates worthy of a Top Chef competition. The spectacle began with luscious Caribbean appetizers like grouper ceviche and a fababa, a typical Spanish soup with a Dominican spin consisting of white beans with boneless pork feet and chorizo followed by snapper a la Vera Cruz served with a mild spicy tomato sauce with green chiles, olives and capers and the traditional shrimp in coriander cream sauce. The kitchen’s expertise is apparent in their seasonal menu which included a Piquillo red pepper stuffed with a grouper terrine and Shrimp served with Aioli sauce, spicy oxtail braised in red wine as well as a Chinese favorite with a twist, crab pot stickers.
Desserts were the finale. A simple local coconut pudding complimented a tres leches, the Latin classic, a moist, sweet almost custard-like cake that is macerated with three kinds of milk. The service was personal and helpful, especially when our mojitos needed refilling!
I admit that having dinner in a Caribbean cave might sound like a bit of a stretch for some folks but make no mistake, you’ll succumb to the novelty very quickly. Just beware that after a few rounds of the excellent Dominican rum, you’ll have to climb that winding staircase back to the real world.
For those who are craving a more open air experience, El Meson has just opened an expansive, tiered outdoor terrace that is a paradise and another world unto itself. Be sure to spend time snooping around with your cocktails before you sit down. Beyond the cinematic surroundings themselves there is an impressive collection of artifacts discovered during the excavation and creation of the establishment. Oh ho, ho and a bottle of rum, indeed!
El Meson de la Cava
Avenida Mirador Sur #1
Bella Vista
Santo Domingo, Domincan Republic
809-533-2818
www.elmesondelacava.com