To truly understand the country of Estonia, you need to know its history. After being occupied for more than 50 years – first by the Soviet Union, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again – Estonians began the quest for independence. They had no army so they used what they had – music. Estonians joined hands and began singing forbidden political songs. Those peaceful musical protests led to the country’s independence in 1991.
I found this country enchanting in every way. Here are a few of my favorite experiences.
Tallinn’s Medieval Old Town
With cobblestone streets dating back to the 13thcentury and houses and warehouses in their original form going back even further, Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn, has managed to preserve its Hanseatic origin earning it UNESCO World Cultural Heritage status. The medieval Old Town is home to galleries, shops, café’s and an ever increasing number of innovative gourmet restaurants.
The Town Hall is the last surviving Gothic town hall in northern Europe. For seven centuries Town Hall Square has been the beating heart of the city hosting concerts and fairs during summer and transforming into a magical Christmas market during the holidays.
A platform in the high tower of the 15th century St. Olaf’s Church provides panoramic views of the city. If you’re thinking you’d like a bird’s eye view of medieval Old Town, the former city wall and the surrounding Gulf of Finland, take a ride with Balloon Tallin. The helium filled balloon anchored to the ground whisks passengers up 120 meters high for spectacular vistas.
nAnO – A Hidden Gem
Tallinn’s uniquely adventurous culinary scene has a something few tourists discover – the “home restaurant”. Residents who enjoy cooking and entertaining literally open up their homes as restaurants to both locals and tourists. These “home restaurants” pop-up seasonally around town and are publicly listed, licensed, and take reservations just like ordinary restaurants.
One of the most interesting, nAnO, is truly a hidden gem with no signage to mark its location – only the heady aroma of delicious food wafting through the windows. To add to the intrigue of the place the owner is former supermodel and Playboy Bunny, Beatrice Fenice. Now in her 40s, Beatrice is an accomplished artist and entrepreneur owning a modeling agency as well as her home restaurant. She’s a wonderful cook and shares her culinary talents with all who visit nAnO.
Experience the Magic of the Bogs in Soomaa National Park
Located in southwestern Estonia, Soomaa National Park is known for having five seasons. There are the usual four – winter, spring, summer and fall. And then there’s flood season in early spring, when the water levels rise so high in the park that canoeing is the best way to navigate through the wilderness and even into the front yards of nearby villagers. When the waters recede, expansive bogs are uncovered.
Elevated wooden walkways meander through the forest and over the bogs. You can stay on the walkways and keep your feet dry, but I recommend taking off your shoes and sinking into the bog to feel the spongy earth between your toes. You might sink down to your knees so be prepared! Wilderness outfitters offer guided bog walking excursions with rubber boots and specially designed bog shoes. Be sure to keep an eye out for fairies – you know they live in the bogs, right?
The Culture and Folklore of Kihnu Island
Estonia has over 1500 islands, but you won’t find one more enchanting than Kihnu, the largest one in the Gulf of Riga and the seventh largest in Estonia. The minute you step foot on this island of about 500 residents, you sense you are in a special place.
A matriarchal community here takes charge and cherishes ancient traditions. For centuries the men have gone to sea while the women remained to manage things, protecting the island’s cultural heritage consisting of music, dances, games and handicrafts. The hands of the Kihnu women are never idle, always knitting or playing a musical instrument and their traditional handicrafts and music are then passed down to the younger generations. Housed in the former schoolhouse of Sääreküla Village, the Kihnu Musuem displays tools, clothes, handicrafts and the furniture of these very unique people.
The woolen handicrafts worn by the women are the most visible emblems of Kihnu culture. Using local wool and traditional looms, the women weave and knit brightly colored mittens, stockings, skirts and blouses enhanced with vivid stripes and intricate embroidery. Symbolic forms and colors are rooted in ancient legends. For the women of Kihnu traditional clothing is everyday attire and it’s common and actually pretty cool to see the older women riding motor bikes in their traditional garb.
A visit to Kihnu means being welcomed to lunch at a home restaurant where your hostess will serve traditional Estonian foods which always include potatoes and herring. You’ll be enchanted. Count on it.
FUN FACT: UNESCO has proclaimed the Kihnu marriage ceremony a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.”
Visit the Estonian Tourism Board’s website for information on planning your own experiences in this enchanting country.
www.visitestonia.com
Where to Stay:
Hotel Telegraaf (Vene Posti Operaator AS)
Vene 9
10123 Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 6000600
www.telegraafhotel.com
Savoy Boutique Hotel
Suur-Karja tänav 17, Kesklinna linnaosa
Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 680 – 6688
www.visitestonia.com/en/savoy-boutique-hotel
Where to Eat/Drink:
EBA Koolituskeskus
Masina 11, A-korpus 1. korrus
10144 Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 631 – 3788
www.facebook.com/koolituskeskus/
nAnO
sulevimägi 5
Tallinn, Estonia
555 – 22522 & 501 – 4026
NOA
Ranna tee 3, Pirita linnaosa
Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 508 – 0589
Manna La Roosa
Vana-Viru tänav 15, Kesklinna linnaosa
Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 620 – 0249
www.visitestonia.com/en/manna-la-roosa
What To Do:
What to Do:
Balloon Tallinn
Sadama tänav 25/13, Kesklinna linnaosa
Tallinn, Estonia
372 – 562 – 6979
www.visitestonia.com/en/balloon-tallinn
Kihnu Island Excursion
www.visitestonia.com/en/where-to-go/islands/kihnu-island
Soomaa National Park
Tipu küla, Kõpu vald
Viljandi maakond
372 – 435 – 7164