Europe’s Largest Waterfall, Neuhausen, Switzerland

“A river seems a magic thing.” — Laura Gilpin

The thunderous sound of Europe’s largest waterfall tumbling over a wide expanse of cliffs impeded any attempt at conversation. With our boat wobbling in the churning water, we got as close to the falls as our experienced tour guide dared go while still maintaining a safe distance. The mist all around cooled our faces and seemed to soothe our spirits on this hot summer morning.

Europe’s Largest Waterfall

Added to Switzerland’s State Inventory for Countryside and Natural Monuments of National Importance in 1983, the Rhine Falls is Europe’s largest waterfall in terms of width (150 m. / 492 ft.) and flow rate (600,000 liters/second in summer / more than 158 gallons/second). The immense water pressure is used to generate energy at the site.

Rising in the middle of the cliffs is a massive rock, densely covered with evergreens, and crowned with a tall pole flying the Swiss flag. The reward for climbing a zigzagging staircase to a small platform at the top is a dazzling 360° panoramic view. The rock is illuminated every evening after sunset, except during the full moon and the day after.

The Ancient Laufen Castle

On a hill high above the Falls perches the ancient Laufen Castle, first mentioned in 858, and initially the seat of the Barons von Laufen. A Swiss heritage site since 1941, the castle was renovated and expanded in 2009 and 2010 when it was opened as a tourist attraction. Seven rooms, from elegant to rustic, along with a wine cellar, cater to small and large groups, events and celebrations. An elevator ascends to the middle of the viewing platform while stairs descend to the lowest platform.

The Rhine River

Turning away from the Falls, we headed south on the now calm Rhine River. The Rhine is over 1,232 km (766 mi) long from its source in the Swiss Alps in the western Canton of Graubünden. Flowing north it crosses Lake Constance before heading west. Reaching the northern Swiss city of Basel, the Rhine — now a mighty river — becomes one of the most important commercial waterways in Europe. It crosses six countries: Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France, and the Netherlands, where it flows into the North Sea at Rotterdam.

But after tumbling down the Falls here in Neuhausen, the Rhine is a tame kitten. Large mounds of white foam looking almost like snow floating down the river caught my attention. A pretty but unusual sight, I wanted to find out what it was exactly. As per the Coordination Office Rheinfall: “The foam is nothing but the protein of the Ranunculus fluitans (river water-crowfoot), a species of buttercup which is set free through the power station in Schaffhausen and the Falls. It’s harmless for swimmers and can be seen particularly in summer and warm periods.”

Dining with a View

It was time to turn around and return to our starting point at the docks of the Schloessli Woerth (‘small castle’ Woerth). This four-story building on a tiny island has a centuries-old history, dating back to the 12th century when it was a customs house. The current restaurant was added during a major renovation in the 1830s. One of its most famous guests was Johann Wolfgang von Goethe who visited it on September 18, 1797, even recording in his diary that he went in to drink a glass of wine. We decided to follow in Goethe’s footsteps. Sitting by the panoramic glass windows, we savored a delicious trout accompanied by a bottle of the local Pinot Gris and admired once again the torrents crashing over the Rhine Falls.