2,000 Years of History in the Spanish Countryside

Between the European capitals of Madrid and Lisbon lies a region of rolling hills with Medieval castles that have found new lives as “Game of Thrones” locations, villages that are honoring Spain’s Jewish history and 2,000-year-old Roman architectural marvels that are still thriving today. The Extremadura region of Spain is one of the country’s true undiscovered gems. Virtually unknown to international tourists (85% of the region’s tourism is national), it’s an area preserved by anonymity but thriving with a unique regional culture. It is also exceptionally charming and makes for a fantastic road trip through the Spanish countryside.

“Extrema-what?” was the usual response I got when I told friends of my upcoming trip. Spain is one of the top ten most visited countries by U.S. residents, but we tend to explore more familiar terrain. But as the focus of luxury travel shifts from “things” to “experiences” what is more luxurious than being among the first to experience the authenticity of a destination?

Go West…Life is Peaceful There 

My three-hour-drive from Madrid may as well have been in a DeLorean. With each mile I could feel tensions easing, my internal clock slowing and time rewinding before my very eyes. I was headed “Back to the Extremadura Present.” And the charm factor was indeed extreme. I found myself in a time where coffee breaks are opportunities to connect, happy hours happen in plazas overlooking palaces and dinners are to be savored not just consumed. The vast region on Spain’s western border with Portugal has developed a bit slower than its neighbors. Prior to Spain joining the European Union in 1986, antiquated transportation routes isolated regions into developing their own cultures, accents and customs. Today, modern roadways are not only connecting Extremadura to major highways in Spain but also to a new generation of visitors. This will only increase after the highspeed AVE train route connecting Madrid and Lisbon (and passing right through Extremadura) completes next year.

First stop, the village of Hervás, where I stayed in a former convent converted into one of the region’s Hospederias—a network of salvaged, historical buildings repurposed for hospitality. My Catholic upbringing aside, I was in Hervás to learn about Extremadura’s Jewish history. While walking through tiny cobblestone alleys our guide, Marco, explained that in 1391 persecution of Jews in the southeast regions brought a vibrant Jewish population to Extremadura until 1492, when they were expelled from Spain by Queen Isabella. As the community fled or converted, much of their history was lost, but in the last few decades, the town of Hervás has restored the old Jewish quarter to honor its previous residents, even with theatrical retellings of the story every summer.

Winter is Coming…Year-Round in Extremadura

Got GOT fever? “Game of Thrones” fans will find themselves on a live set throughout Extremadura. Just driving around you’ll find castles and stone walls dotting the hills of the region. These forts were built to last and they are very much thriving in Extremadura. So much so, that HBO shot much of season seven here. In Cáceres, follow Euron Greyjoy’s march toward the Redfort. After taking all your GOT-inspired photos, don’t forget to visit the Renaissance palaces and Medieval fortresses that helped designate Cáceres a UNESCO World Heritage City. My day ended sipping cocktails at the city’s main plaza, Plaza de Santa Maria, with gorgeous views of the walled city. As darkness descended on the foggy night, I felt transported to a fantasy world. Don’t worry, your evening will be free of drama; Extremadura has once again been named the country’s safest region by Spain’s Ministry of the Interior.

From Cáceres, head to Trujillo Castle (about a 30-minute drive) to witness GOT’s Casterly Rock fortress firsthand. This location has been a sight way before “Game of Thrones” made it one. Built between the ninth and twelfth centuries, this imposing castle sits at the highest point of town and still boasts four (out of the original seven) perfectly preserved gates.

Ancient Roman Culture is Thriving

I next traded an elaborate television fantasy life for a complex history more than two millenniums in the making by visiting Mérida, the Extremadura region’s capital and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mérida was the capital of the Lusitania province (modern-day Spain and Portugal) during Roman times and still has the largest collection of Roman remains outside of Italy. Walking through the city, you’ll pass under the Arco de Trajano, a Roman arch still standing after 2,000 years and the Diana Temple, the former Roman Forum with its equally ancient columns. Mérida’s Roman history is everywhere and impeccably preserved. According to our tour guide, about 99% of construction projects unearth some type of ancient ruins. For a full visual history, I headed to the National Museum of Roman Art. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning Spanish architect, Rafael Moneo, the building with its huge brick arches is almost as much of a draw as the artifacts it houses.

Outside the museum, channel your inner gladiator and visit one of the oldest Roman amphitheaters still in existence. As I’m more artistically than athletically inclined, the final stop on the tour was my favorite. Mérida’s Roman theatre is an amazing spot. Not only has it stood thousands of years, but it is still used as a theatre today. When I visited, a woman touring with her family, decided to serenade us with an impromptu operatic aria. She just stood in the center of the stage and the acoustics of this open-air theatre carried her (quite beautiful) voice perfectly to fill the entire space. Those Romans were some very crafty builders! Every summer, the theatre hosts the Mérida Classical Theatre Festival, bringing classics to life for a new generation of theatregoers.

The Extremadura region is uniquely positioned between Madrid and Lisbon and yet maintains the allure of undiscovered authenticity. It is a region where villages still prosper (a rarity with today’s rural population migrating toward Spanish cities) and life is more simply enjoyed. In Extremadura, more than 2,000 years of history are lived every day—not as relics of the past but as a preserved present to be enjoyed by future generations.

TurismoExtremadura.com