Having sat in the lap of luxury for most of our time spent in Marrakesh, we decided to get out on our own and rent a car. Our destination: the quiet oasis of Fez, a six and half hour drive from Marrakech, and well worth a few days.
Fez is actually three cities meshed into one: Fes El Bali, the old 8th-century medina, al-Aliya, the “new” medina dating from the 9th century and the modern city that has grown around them. Fez buildings are mostly in shades of soft cream, giving the city a tranquil feel, appropriate, as it’s a center of religious study boasting the oldest continuously operating university in the world, The University of Al Quaraouiyine, founded in 859 A.D.
We parked the car and walked into Fes El Bali – this medina is pedestrian only, one of the world’s largest car-free zones, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Making our way through a labyrinth of alleys lined with high walls dotted with elaborate doorways to private homes, we emerged into a beautiful private garden, planted with fragrant orange trees.
Riad Fes
A simple door marked the entrance to our hotel, Riad Fes.
I wasn’t fully prepared for the grandeur of this riad – the Moroccan word for hotel – with its soaring central atrium, arches, and elaborately carved walls. Five private houses, dating back to 1438, were combined to create what is now the best hotel in Fez. Scarlett Johanssen has stayed in the Royale Suite here as has Sigourney Weaver.
Ours was the Sultan Suite, two perfectly appointed open spaces with a spacious seating area, ultra-modern bath and terrace, all with romantic views of the old city. The hotel’s rooftop is legendary, and the perfect place to sip Champagne as the sun sets over the medina, the mountains and the desert beyond. www.riadfes.com
La Maison Bleue
For dinner, we headed to La Maison Bleue, situated in another lovely riad nearby. Because it’s a cinch you’ll get lost in the winding streets, the restaurants send a runner to escort you. The “pastille au lait” pastry dessert was especially memorable here, as were the musicians, one of whom broke into a dance, twirling a tassel on his fez and ending with what might be described as an Arabic tap-dance. A charming, authentic, experience. www.maisonbleue.com
Enchanting Fez
The best and most practical way to see Fez is to hire a government-accredited guide. The price is right, about $40 for the day, and you can hit all the right spots in the medina. A highlight is Bou Inania Madrasa, a school dating from 1351, beautifully restored and full of exquisite ancient artifacts. The madrasa is one of the only religious places in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors.
Bab Bou Jeloud, the “Blue Gate,” with green on its other side, represents the official colors of the city. The Royal Palace, its guards stationed in front wearing red uniforms, signaled that Mohammed the 6th, the very popular king, was in the city. In the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, you’ll find lots of stalls selling jewelry and gold as well as the tannery, flanked by vast vats of dyes and shops selling everything from leather bags and jackets to Moroccan poufs.
The Talisman Art Gallery
A souk is a souk is a souk, but don’t miss The Talisman Art Gallery, a virtual Ali Baba’s trove of treasures including Berber jewelry, silver boxes dotted with semi-precious stones and startlingly gorgeous antiques ranging from life-size Mazi warriors to elaborately worked lamps. The prices reflect the rarity of the objects, but it’s a collector’s paradise akin to shopping in a museum. It costs nothing to enter this emporium, and the building itself is a perfect example of a traditional Moroccan palace, with soaring ceilings and intricately tiled fountains and walls.
www.talismanfesgallery.com
The Ruined Garden
The most romantic restaurant in Fez is the Ruined Garden, built amid a collapsed 14th century house with picturesque broken walls and overgrown vegetation and dotted with large clay pots trailing vines. The food is excellent, but be forewarned, they don’t serve alcohol. The maître d’ laughed and said they applied for a liquor license five years ago, but it hasn’t come through yet. www.ruinedgarden.com
Roman Ruins at Volubilis
An hour-and-a-half from Fez is Volubilis, a Roman city over 2,300 years old that makes for a fascinating excursion. The surprisingly intact ruins, with Corinthian columns standing in front of the Capitoline Temple, the Arch of Caracalla and a framework of houses with mosaic floors and olive presses is a UNESCO world heritage site.
On the way back, stop in the whitewashed town of Moulay Idriss to have a simple lunch of barbecued chicken, beef and lamb in the city square. This beautiful village is considered holy and was only recently opened to non-Muslims. www.whc.unesco.org
Marinid Tombs, Breathtaking views
The last thing you should do in Fez is head up to the Marinid Tombs, the highest spot in town on a hill above the city. Here you’ll find a 16th century ruined fortification with breathtaking views of the city, countryside and mountains.
Travelers have always been drawn to Morocco’s staggering beauty and inspiring sights but more so today, with its spiritual significance as a peaceful Muslim country, it makes for a very special and momentous adventure.