FISH, Auckland, New Zealand

Like its twin sister Sydney, Auckland is all about the harbor with sailboats bobbing in the distance and views to the busy Bayswater marina and the well-heeled (and very close) suburbs a few minutes away. So, it’s no surprise that Hilton snagged a prime slice of real estate there and built a nautically inspired property on the water. FISH is its signature restaurant and the stomping ground for Chef Shane Yardley who will wow you with his brilliant seafood interpretations.

Up a long cantilevered stairway to the second floor, we find a big room with seafaring touches and an open-air terrace. It’s a prime spot for both grazing and gazing and on this Saturday afternoon tables are spilling out into the sunshine. Several are celebrating birthdays and graduations and even though it’s the beginning of winter the weather is like springtime, no jacket needed, even facing the water. We’re about to learn a lesson in how simply delectable cuisine, a scenic convivial atmosphere and relaxed yet attentive service, can make a meal an unmatched experience. That is definitely the case at FISH.

Over luscious brunch cocktails we dig into a half-dozen Bluff Oysters (native to New Zealand and a prized delicacy there), meaty and plump with a choice of Kaitaia hot sauce or a Pomegranate Balsamic Mignonette, both an obvious departure from the standard bi-valve accompaniments. These signal an adventurous chef bending the rules and making a statement. A basket of fresh homemade ciabatta with a tomato aioli is whisked to our table by B.J. our intuitive server who never misses a beat with recommendations. Normally, I shy away from consulting wait staff about food; having spent some time in the hospitality business, I lack the trust that most folks put into a service professional because you just never know what the chef has ordered his minions to sell. Here, that was definitely not the case as B.J. made excellent suggestions all along the way. While the menu’s focus lies squarely under water, carnivores won’t be disappointed. But if you are a fish lover like me, I recommend you stay the course with the sea.

We decide on the Pan Fried Scallops with fennel, orange and pine nuts as our first appetizer along with a Smoked Venison Tartare served with Fois Gras mayo, fig gel, fried kale and crisp parmesan tuiles. Both are yummy and are wonderful counterpoints, the richness of each downplayed in the petite portions. Another round of cocktails and we’re off to the races with entrees. B.J. praises the Blue Moki, the catch of the day, and a bit like grouper he says. It’s pan roasted and served with shaved squid, braised white beans, and wilted lettuce. It’s excellent.

But the real entrée star is Shane’s famous Seafood Stew, fragrant with mussels, Cloudy Bay clams, shrimp and a fresh fish and saffron rouille. I close my eyes and I’m in Marseille but without all the garlic which often deters me from ordering a rich dish like this. A bowl of broth, fish and shellfish can easily veer toward leaden but in Shane’s hands I find I want more; his deft lightness with every dish is commendable. We never feel full and that can easily happen with stews of any sort.

With food as good as this we decide in advance that we are not missing dessert. A Hot Chocolate Fondant with malted milk ice cream is the perfect combination of ingredients and the Strawberry & Rhubarb Lemon Curd Cream with strawberry sorbet is too refreshing to believe.

We want to linger over more of Shane’s magic but after many hours the thought of sunset over this beautiful harbor wins out so we’re off. As I’m leaving I think about how much I’d like to return; I’m sure by this time FISH has upped its fan base exponentially. This is a winner! Fingers crossed that B.J. is still there.