Nestled in Florida’s panhandle is a place seemingly untouched by time – a place where fishermen head out each day for the perfect catch and communities have country music worthy names like Apalachicola and Alligator Point. This is Franklin County, Florida’s forgotten coast, home of the world’s smallest police station, a single traffic light and a culinary scene you won’t soon forget.
The nutrient rich waters of the ApalachicolaBay estuarine system produce some of the finest seafood in the country. FranklinCounty harvests more than 90 percent of Florida’s oysters and 10 percent of the nationwide supply. Today, oystermen harvest the oysters the same way they have for a century – from small wooden boats using tongs that look something like two rakes attached scissors-style.
Oysters are the main attraction here especially in restaurants like Boss Oyster – an Apalachicola landmark. This no frills waterfront establishment takes pride in having its own oystermen who know the ropes of proper harvesting. They have a third generation harvester who is only one of two currently certified by the Interstate Shellfish Sanitation Commission. Their private harvesting boat, appropriately named “Boss Oyster,” has on-board refrigeration which guarantees the oysters stay chilled from “bay to belly.”
The freshness is evident when they’re served raw, roasted or baked. The menu offers several versions of the baked variety using a combination of Boss Originals and ideas submitted by guests. For a little fire, try the Oyster Captain Jack with bacon, jalapeño peppers, Colby cheese and hot sauce. Or get fancy with Oysters “Rockerfella” with sautéed spinach, onion, garlic and parmesan cheese. If you can’t make up your mind, order the Boss Oyster Combo, a dozen oysters with your choice of three toppings. Other choices include fresh Florida grouper, Gulf shrimp, Bay scallops and soft shell crabs … all plucked from the surrounding waters.
Another favorite waterfront restaurant is Up the Creek Raw Bar which declares itself “not just your father’s oyster bar.” Chef Brett Gormley keeps up with current culinary trends and incorporates those into the dishes he creates. I went in thinking I didn’t really like oysters and left wanting more. Chef Brett’s creations include oysters Mediterranean style, steamed and served with olive, garlic and caper tapenade or his Oysters Moscow, raw with horseradish, sour cream and caviar. Other offerings include Little Neck clams, harvested from the waters at Alligator Point, steamed in white wine and house seasoned butter and served with Asiago cheese bread. Brett’s famous Conch cakes are served with mango coconut slaw and Key Lime sauce. And if you want to sample more of the local cuisine, order the Alligator Burger topped with avocado mayo with a side of chipotle slaw. While you’re getting your fill of oysters, clams and gators you can soak in the best view in Apalachicola from an open-air deck. How can you not love a place with a sign that reads “Beer, Wine and Hard Likkor?”
Housed in a renovated 1920’s era historic building with a tin ceiling and exposed brick walls, Tamara’s Café has been serving mouth-watering entrées for over 10 years. Founder Tamara Suarez’s daughter, Marisa Getter, and her husband, Danny Itzkovitz, offer a menu that blends Tamara’s original dishes with new ones by Danny, former chef at The Soup Kitchen in Savannah, Georgia. Favorite original entrees include Tamara’s Pecan Crusted Grouper served with a creamy jalapeño sauce and Tamara’s Paella – shrimp, scallops, grouper, chicken and sausage in a rice casserole. Every Wednesday is tapas night when you can choose from small plates of Tortilla de Esparragos, Spanish Omelet, Esparragos arropados (prosciutto wrapped asparagus) or Jamon Serrano (prosciutto with fruits) just to name a few. Marisa enjoys making satisfying lunch specials, too, like Champandongo, a Mexican style lasagna.
If for lunch you’re craving a little nostalgia, check out Carrabelle Junction. This old fashioned soda shop serves up a selection of hearty sandwiches from a classic BLT to a Turkey, Bacon and Avocado delight. There are delicious “made from scratch” soups and old fashioned soft drinks like RC Cola, Nehi Grape and A&W Root Beer. No soda fountain would be complete without ice cream and at Carrabelle Junction you can have it in a cone, shake, sundae or float. There are daily “Blue Plate Specials” and you can end your meal with a cup of ForgottenCoast house blend coffee for 50 cents. No credit cards are taken here but they’ll gladly accept cash, checks and even an I.O.U.
When your sweet tooth kicks in, head over to Apalachicola Chocolate Company, the delicious retirement plan of owner, George Stritikus. Having worked in the food business his entire life, George knew he wouldn’t be ready to let it all go when retirement came around, so he learned how to make chocolate. He began experimenting with chocolate candy although most of the recipes he tried were too sweet so he tested different combinations of ingredients and perfected the confections through trial and error. When he finally did throw in the towel about five years ago he settled on Apalachicola as the location for his shop. “I have always been drawn to the water and this forgotten coast of Florida seemed like the perfect spot for my shop,” he says.
This part of Florida also gave George something special for his chocolates. The Apalachicola River basin and the nearby Ochlocknee and Choctahatchee Rivers are part of an area well known for its distinctive Tupelo honey. This all natural honey has a delicate taste and is the only honey that doesn’t crystallize. Turns out it was the perfect ingredient for George’s chocolate walnut turtles – one bite and you’ll be singing along with Tim McGraw … ”kisses sweeter than Tupelo Honey.”
FranklinCounty’s culinary delights are truly unforgettable.
Where to Eat in Franklin County: Boss Oyster 123 Water Street, Apalachicola, FL32320 850-653-9364 Up the Creek Raw Bar 313 Water Street, Apalachicola, FL32320 850-653-2525 Tamara’s Café 71 Market Street, Apalachicola, FL32320 850-653-4111 Carrabelle Junction 88 Tallahassee Street, Carrabelle, FL32322 850-697-9550 Apalachicola Chocolate Company 15 Avenue E, Apalachicola, FL32320 850-370-6937