Gallatin and Park Counties, Montana

A Place for All Seasons “Montana,” so the popular slogan says, “is the last best place.”  Call me biased, but if that’s true, then Montana’s Gallatin and Park Counties are truly the last last best places.  Small slivers in the shape of states, the counties huddle against one another in Montana’s southwestern corner, roughly forming the letter p.

Visiting Gallatin and Park Counties is perfect throughout all seasons of the year. Any one of the seasons has unique qualities to show off.     In fall, the days are crisp and cool.  If you are lucky you catch a black bear’s amble into town to feast on late summer’s crab apples.  It isn’t long before the real, genuine, cold starts in and one September afternoon you realize at once how the light has completely changed, from August’s dusty browns to October’s piercing pinks and failing blues. Hunting season is here and hibernation is on its way.

Nothing is more magical than the first frosts, the first snowfall, or the first morning after a good blizzard.  Then the world is soft and white, with snowflakes powdery and abundant.  Caught in the headlamp of a stream of icy winter sunshine the flakes float glittering as tiny frozen stars.  Winter, spring, summer and fall offer an abundance of sunshine in these parts of Montana.

Had e.e. cummings been at all familiar with Montana, one would imagine he wrote the line in Just spring when the world is mud-luscious thinking specifically of this spring-magical region.  The first bring out a muddy wonderland.  (And the freezes and thaws alike, I assure you, can and often will last well into July.)  The rivers pick up speed as the waters rise, and with the abundance of mountain runoff, the whole landscape turns an emerald green.  The lilacs bloom; white and purple and fragrant, they grow in clumps on the trees.  They are lavish, as only they can be, in this lilac-perfect terrain of the high desert.

But just wait.  Exactly when you think it could not possibly get any better, it is late July and you are on a stretch of plain between any of the several mountainous ranges.  The perfect summer landscape, spread out before you and speckled with the majestic scarcity of this moderate desert, is a layering of all the colors of all the generous seasons—reds, yellows, blues, purples, greens and pinks.  The cool waters of a river flow past you, lined on either side with billowing cottonwood trees.  All the while, overhead, travel the blustering clouds of a thunderstorm, soaring, spacious and floating past the pouring sunshine creating flecks with all the radiance of a prism.

It is amazing to think that paintings have been painted, poems written, and music sung by those unfortunate enough to never have been to Park and Gallatin Counties, Montana.  In saying so, I know, I am guilty of saying it aloud: Montana has beautiful, beautiful country.  In the 1990’s, after A River Runs Through It (primarily filmed in Gallatin County) turned all eyes towards Montana and brought sight-seers in by the droves, tee-shirts and bumper stickers were printed, touting: “Montana sucks, now go home and tell all your friends.”  But, of course, it wasn’t true.  Even if it makes me guilty, I have to say it, when you are in Montana, it really feels, as the slogan has stated and re-stated so many times already, that you are indeed in “the last best place.”

An Ideal Retreat

For sun dogs and snow bunnies alike, you have to see—if not ski—Big Sky.  To maximize your time on the slopes, consider staying at least a couple of nights in the Big Sky area.  In the winter, Big Sky offers world-class skiing.  Packages are available through the Big Sky Ski Resort or the Moonlight Basin Ranch.  In the off-season, take a gondola ride to the top of the mountain for magnificent hikes and pristine views.  The area also offers world-class fly fishing, whitewater rafting, horseback riding, golfing, dining and shopping, in addition to Big Sky being situated only a short driving distance to the western entrance to Yellowstone National Park.

After the quiet time on the mountain, you’ll be ready to spend a few nights in Montana’s flourishing little metropolis of Bozeman.  As the fifth largest city in the state, Bozeman’s population is at just under 40,000, but with the plethora of options for shopping, dining and entertainment, you’ll likely forget you are in such a small town amid the great big wilderness (if you want to, that is).

It used to be that Hollywood sorts bought houses out in Gallatin County to escape all the Hollywood-to-do, but times are changing (albeit slowly, they still are changing), and while Montana is still a favorite covert getaway, Bozeman living has come a long way from the days when it literally was the boonies.  Anymore, thanks to modern times, and with big city folks coming and going, spreading big city class and some dough through the Bozeman area, you are likely to find just as good a pair of designer jeans in Bozeman as you would in New York City or Los Angeles, and you are at least equally as likely to enjoy a fine meal.  If you’re in the market to buy a good latte, a work of art, or attend a film festival?  Bozeman has you covered there, too.

While you are in Bozeman, stroll along Main Street (appropriately named, as it is basically the only street of downtown).  Set into the sidewalks outside of the historic Ellen and Rialto Theatres, are Hollywood-style golden stars etched with the names of notable Bozemanites.  From Gary Cooper, to the well-known baritone, Pablo Alvira, to Ted Turner and the Fondas, Bozeman has always been both the birth and chosen home of many public figures.  While you are on Main Street, dip into the locally-owned coffee house, The Leaf and Bean, a fixture of downtown Bozeman that was opened by Glenn Close in 1977.  A mural hangs behind the counter that was painted by Ernest Hemingway’s grandson, Edward, another Bozeman native, who in the 1990’s lived in the Lovelace Apartment building across the street.

From Bozeman, Bridger Bowl Ski Resort is an easy fifteen minute drive.  Some would argue that Bridger’s skiing is preferred by locals over Big Sky, but Bridger’s popularity with Bozemanites could be explained more simply in that it is closer, less crowded, and less expensive.  (Big Sky in contrast is a 35 minute drive from Bozeman).

On the opposite end of Bozeman, don’t miss an excursion into Hylight Canyon.  When the weather is warm, hike any of the canyon’s many trails, or brave the arctic waters of the Hylight Reservoir.  Campgrounds in Hylight abound, and camping there is free!

Surrounding areas of interest

If you took off walking in any direction from either Bozeman or Big Sky, you would run into a river.  Among them are the Madison, Missouri, Gallatin and the Yellowstone.  Make a date to get out to one of them, or book a room in a lodge with a view of one of the many breathtaking riverfront landscapes.

No matter how long your Montana adventure lasts, you won’t possibly have enough time to do it all.  Evastone’s only year-round entrance).  On your way, stop for lunch in Livingston’s historic downtown.

Not far out of Livingston you pass into Paradise Valley.  Stop off overnight at Chico Hot Springs, if you have the time.  Otherwise, stay an afternoon at least soaking in the naturally heated waters and taking in the rugged beauty of both the Paradise Valley landscape and Chico’s luxurious shabby chic lodge.

Just before getting to Yellowstone Park, you reach the town of Gardiner.  Stop here for a bison burger at Helen’s Corral Drive-In, if you’re in the mood for a greasy spoon, eat-in-your-car-or-at-the-outdoor-tables-only kind of experience.  You won’t forget it!