Greenville, South Carolina: Hunting for the Best Shrimp & Grits

Recently I went on a quest to find the best Shrimp and Grits in Greenville, South Carolina. My hunt began on Main Street, where the sound of live music often fills the air and where, in warmer weather, the scent of perfectly seasoned dishes billows out onto the sidewalks.  Greenville is a foodie mecca with a strong international scene, where Thai, Persian, Dutch, French and Indian, as well as seafood and steak, are just the beginning of the variety of over 120 restaurants in its famed downtown.

Considering that I’m here in the South, where “meat and three” restaurants were once king, I could not have imagined that award-winning chefs would arrive in record numbers to open restaurants rivaling those in larger cities. Or, that out of the booming foodie scene would grow food tours, food & music festivals, and culinary competitions.  Let me be frank. The food options here are endless. Which leads to the paradox of choice. The next time you find yourself in Greenville, be prepared to ask yourself. What and where should I eat?

Shrimp and Grits

If you could order only one dish that was the quintessential dish of ALL of South Carolina, where the history of grist mills in the upstate and fresh caught shrimp in the coastal low country come together, order Shrimp and Grits. What started out in the 1800s as a humble breakfast dish has been interpreted by award-winning chefs and is now featured on the fanciest of dinner menus. Nowhere else will you find a dish with such roots and history.

I was up for the challenge of finding the best Shrimp and Grits in town. I mean, who am I to pass on food that the entire state raves about? But my own experience was limited to a plain bowl of (most likely) instant grits at a Waffle House, part of an annual road trip to Disney World. I needed to dig deeper to better understand and appreciate this must-try dish, that is loved throughout the state.

Exactly What are Grits?

Native to American Indians, grits come from corn or hominy. Grinding them in a stone mill gives them a gritty texture. The upstate of South Carolina was once full of cornfields and grist mills were an important part of the economy. Add coastal resources like shrimp, and contributions by the West African Gullah slaves, and you have shrimp and grits, an affordable and plentiful Low Country (coastal) staple.

“I’m always sketchy of people who don’t like grits.” – Jaycee Ford, Author

My Quest for the Best

My quest to find the best shrimp and grits began at the top of North Main, or NoMa Square as locals call it.  It took only a few weeks, I mean, a girl can eat just so much shrimp and grits. I tried them at Roost, Sassafras Southern Bistro, and Tupelo Honey. Continuing down Main Street to the Reedy River I tried them at Soby’s, Larkins on the River, and Rick Erwin’s, too. Each was very different and delicious in its own way. Some were rich and creamy, with flavors melding together, while others were fresh and light, highlighting each ingredient and piled high, almost blanketing the grits. A few of them were clearly proud of their sauces and gravies on top. What I quickly learned is no matter how it’s prepared, if you’re craving a simple bowl of goodness, shrimp and grits won’t disappoint.

My Qualifications

I admit that prior to visiting Greenville my experience with shrimp and grits was a big zero. In fact, I’m embarrassed to say that I’d never even heard of it. But I do recall my first bowl – a big mound of creamy grits with a sprinkling of paprika and just the right bit of heat, which served as the canvas for the grilled shrimp topping it. That’s all. No sauce. No vegetables. Nothing terribly creative. Just a mountain of hearty comfort food.

The Verdict

So, who has the best shrimp and grits in Greenville? Restaurants up and down Main Street naturally think they have the best, but I had a hard time deciding. I just can’t get the memory of that first one out of my mind. Could it be that it wasn’t so delicious but just new to me? Or maybe it was one of those cultural moments that you find yourself facing but for which you have no real reference point? In any case, this was Southern culture, where pride runs deep and when it comes to food, it shows in an even bigger way.

After making my way up and down Main Street, one thing I did learn about shrimp and grits is there doesn’t seem to be an official recipe. Rather, each chef interprets the dish in his own way. Almost like art, the quintessential South Carolina standard can’t be measured.  It really is in the eye, or in this case the mouth, of the beholder.