The old grist mill sits tucked away on a small quiet side street in town. On one wall, faded whitewashed letters spell out Waterbury Feed Co. and the sign in the parking lot reads Hen of the Wood. But it’s not immediately clear where it is. The rush of water lures you to a wooden deck where you find yourself staring down at a little tumbling waterfall. Below you, diners are enjoying a prime view of that water. Ah, “there it is,” you say to yourself, as you turn around and make your way inside a stately brick building.
Down a set of stairs, a large room unfolds in semi-darkness where instantly you’re transported back in time – stone walls, heavy wooden beams and sturdy posts evoking the building’s 19th century origins. The dining room wraps around another smaller space with a chandelier above, private, with an almost medieval feeling save for the adjacent open kitchen. The chef nods a hello to you as you’re led to your table, a nice touch.
Hen of the Wood opened in 2005 after a restoration to the basement mill room, a proper rebirth for the historic structure. Partners William McNeil and Chef Eric Warnstedt conceptualized the restaurant to pay homage to the local farmers who are supplying much of the menu’s pristine ingredients. The cooking, which reflects a strong connection to the land, is elegantly simple, at once of the earth and in harmony with the surroundings.
The restaurant’s namesake “hen of the woods” mushroom is foraged by locals and you won’t always find them on the menu. This was the case when we dined there too early in the season, with fall and spring more likely yielding a bounty of the delicious forest fungi. But the sheer pleasure of the down to earth, unfussy dishes more than made up for their absence.
With a menu that changes seasonally thanks to the ingredients being sourced from local farms, you never know what Chef Eric will have up his sleeve on any given evening. Start with the fabulous selection of bread and house made butter, served here at the ideal temperature – you’ll have to ask for it but don’t miss it. To begin we dug into a vibrant beef tartare, the tender, flavorful beef seeming to melt in our mouth, no doubt a result of the beautiful egg yolk mixed in which created a luscious, silky texture. A special of grilled octopus charred to perfection and served on a bed of lentils and squash was sublime. The meal continued with goat’s milk dumplings, small gnocchi-like creations that were lightly sautéed and 100% delicious. A menu staple, the accompaniments change with the season, and on the night we visited we were treated with chanterelles, cherry tomatoes and sweet summer corn. We also chose a rich short rib, another special, which arrived with the dumplings as a side. The repetition was much appreciated, that’s how good they are. I don’t usually order sides but I was very happy with the pair we tried, earthy beets with my favorite American blue cheese, Bayley Hazen Blue from Jasper Hill Farm and subtly sweet heirloom carrots. Dessert is hyper seasonal and our peach shortbread vanished off the plate in moments.
McNeil oversees the wine program, which is by far the best in the state. His taste can run to the esoteric but the geeky selection is outstanding. The list is broken down into helpful categories including rosés and orange wines, aromatic and dry wines, not so dry wines, rich whites, earthy and rustic reds and bigger reds. Expect plenty of Old World choices and a smattering of small producers from the U.S. including Vermont. We tried a funky orangey Vermont sparkler from La Garagiste, a 2012 Folk Machine Chenin Blanc from Mendocino, Ca. and a bottle of Ageno from La Stoppa in Emilia-Romagna, Italy. These are adventurous wines for discerning drinkers but there are dozens and dozens of interesting choices that are easy on the wallet. Even better, all fifteen wines by the glass are also offered by the carafe.
Save room for the cheese course, a sort of greatest hits of the best fromage Vermont has to offer. All the best producers are on hand – Bardwell, Lazy Lady, Jasper Hill and Woodcock Farm – and with your cheese you’ll get a little pile of delicious crackers brushed with maple and sea salt.
McNeil and Warnstedt have created a real gem with Hen of the Wood. The loving restoration of the historic structure matched with clean flavors and accomplished cooking makes this a destination to seek out. And if you can catch those mushrooms, I’m sure you’re in for something else!