Beyond Hong Kong, What a Difference a Day Makes
Soaring skyscrapers plastered in neon, 24-hour nightlife, fabulous shopping that ranges from the suspiciously cheap to the seriously glamorous, and some of the best Chinese food in the world. For most visitors this is Hong Kong, and to be fair, it’s a lot of fun. But it’s not the whole story.
Hard to believe when you’re choking on traffic fumes along Nathan Road, but country parks and nature reserves make up 40 percent of Hong Kong’s total land area, where pristine beaches, ancient villages, chirping cicadas and even troups of capricious monkeys out-number the tourists. The city itself is confined to the coast of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon across the harbor, but the New Territories and outlying islands that make up the “SAR” (Special Administrative Area) are largely wild, rugged places, the rustic atmosphere punctured only by a smattering of new towns sprouting between the hills. You could spend weeks exploring this “other” Hong Kong, but these are my ten favorites, all easily accessible by public transport. Note, though, that while foreign tourists often miss out, locals tend to mob these places on the weekends – go during the week and you’ll have them to yourself.
1 Scaling the Dragon’s Back
One of the most rewarding hikes on Hong Kong Island is also one of the easiest; after the initial scramble up to the ridge known as the Dragon’s Back, the path is relatively level, providing mesmerizing views of the South China Sea, and skyscrapers and mountains to the north. The path is well signposted as it’s the final section of the Hong Kong Island Trail, a 50km route that runs across the whole island. Most hikers get off the bus at the northern end near Mount Collinson, and walk south towards the chilled-out village of Shek O, a great place for lounging on the beach and grabbing a bite in one of the restaurants nearby.
2 Mai Po Marshes
The skyscrapers of Shenzhen loom out of the haze, just across the water in China, but the Mai Po Marshes have somehow survived the encroaching development, a precious zone of shallow fish ponds and mudflats that attract thousands of birds. About a quarter of the world’s population of black-faced spoonbills reside here each winter, along with various gulls, ducks and waders, making it something of an ornithologists paradise. The World Wildlife Fund, which manages Mai Po, has built a system of trails, viewing areas, an education centre and an absorbing visitor center at the entrance, making the whole area accessible to the public.
3 Lamma
Lamma lies just south of the main island, a small, friendly place long occupied by a mix of Cantonese fishing families and an alternative, New Age expat community attracted by affordable rents and its laid-back lifestyle. The best way to get a taster is to take the ferry from Central to the village of Yung Shue Wan and hike across the island (about 1hr). The easy-to-follow trail passes the tiny beach at Hung Shing Ye, snakes over the ridge and rolls down to the smaller settlement of Sok Kwu Wan on the other side, where you’ll find enticing seafood restaurants on the waterfront and ferries back to the city.
4 Plover Cove Country Park
One of the most untrammelled parks in Hong Kong is best known for Bride’s Pool, a series of gurgling cascades that makes a perfect place for a picnic. Get there via the Pat Sin Leng Nature Trail (2hr) or along the main park road (1hr) from the visitor center at Plover Cove Reservoir, which is accessible by bus #75K from Tai Po Market station.
5 Nan Lian Gardens and Chi Lin Nunnery
Sandwiched between the tower blocks of northern Kowloon and a jagged ridge of hills, Nan Lian Gardens is a real surprise and well worth seeking out. These Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) style gardens feature beautifully manicured bonsai trees, carp ponds, pavilions and multi-colored blooms, criss-crossed by wooden bridges and a network of paths. Behind the garden, climbing the slopes, is the Chi Lin Nunnery, a tranquil but impressive complex of traditional wooden temples, halls and pagodas (you are free to wander around during garden opening hours). Take the subway (MTR) to Diamond Hill and follow the signs. (daily 7am-9pm; free; www.nanliangarden.org)
6 Kam Shan Country Park
Wild monkeys in Hong Kong? Unbeknown to many, macaque monkeys thrive in this nature reserve, just north of Kowloon (take bus #81 up Tai Po Road). The hike over the top of the ridge to Tsuen Wan takes around 2 to 3 hours, but it’s not particularly steep and you are almost guaranteed to see large groups of monkeys swinging in trees or nonchalantly nibbling berries on the path. Note, though, these are don’t-mess-with-me Hong Kong monkeys; show them food they’ll try and steal it; get too close and you’ll have them standing on two legs hissing you away.
7 Walled villages
When Britain leased the New Territories from the Chinese government in 1898, the locals were not happy. The Tang clan, who migrated south from China’s Jiangxi province in the 11th century, lived in close-knit fortified villages and organized uprisings against the colonial government. These days their best preserved village is Kat Hing Wai at Kam Tin, though the only thing that agitates the old ladies manning the gates these days are tourists unwilling to pay for their photographs. The castle-like outer walls are still standing, while the narrow lanes and temples inside drip with history, the sounds of Chinese opera and the aromas of roasting meat wafting under wooden doors.
8 Sai Kung Country Park
Jungle-smothered mountains, tranquil villages and gorgeous, empty beaches – welcome to Sai Kung Country Park. From the visitor center (take bus #94 from Sai Kung Town), you can stroll around the High Island Reservoir or tackle sections of the formidable MacLehose Trail towards the coast. The beaches here (2hr hike across the hills) are another gasp-inducing surprise, large swathes of sand with incredibly clear water – it’s not quite Thailand, but close enough. End the day with some freshly caught crab, grouper or lobster in Sai Kung Town, where you can pick your dinner out of tanks on the waterfront before it’s steamed or fried to perfection.
9 Cheung Chau
Of all Hong Kong’s smaller outlying islands, Cheung Chau is the most appealing, with a unique, community atmosphere quite distinct from the rest of the territory. It’s only 45 minutes from the city by ferry, but it’s narrow streets, fishing boats, sampans and bucolic walking trails are a world away. Nothing on the island is more than 30 minutes stroll from the main village; head to Tung Wan Beach for a decent wedge of sand, or take a circular walk of the southern section where there’s more tiny beaches, sea caves and aged Taoist temples clinging to the rocks.
10 Lantau
OK, so everyone who flies to Hong Kong actually arrives on Lantau island, connected by train and ferry to the city. It’s also the home of Disneyland and the wildly popular Ngong Ping 360 cable car, which glides over the hills to the now heavily congested Big Buddha at Po Lin Monastery. But this is just the beginning. Lantau offers some exceptionally gorgeous scenery thanks to the Lantau Trail, a well-marked path that takes in pyramid-like Lantau Peak (934 metres). It’s also home to the creaky stilt houses at Tai O (at the southern end of the island), and Cheung Sha Beach, one of Hong Kong’s most appealing stretches of sand.
Facts About Hong Kong
The country code for Hong Kong is (852).
Where to Sleep
Hong Kong has some of the best hotels in the world, but you can also opt to escape the mayhem and stay in the New Territories or on the outlying islands – always book in advance, especially on weekends and during holidays.
B&B Cheung Chau – Exceptional location between the beach and the main Cheung Chau village, this is a cosy, modern guesthouse with flat-screen TVs, free wi-fi and breakfast on the sunny terrace included. Weekday rates range. 12-14 Tung Wan Rd, Tung Wan Beach, Cheung Chau Island; 2986-9990; www.bbcheungchau.com.hk
Concerto Inn – Attractive boutique hotel on Lamma, right on the beach, with sea views, satellite TVs, free movie rental, DVD players, internet access, and balconies for lounging. 28 Hung Shing Yeh Beach, Lamma Island; 2982-1668; www.concertoinn.com.hk
Regal Riverside Hotel – This large, resort-style hotel is the best in the New Territories, and a good base for exploring the outlying areas. 34–36 Tai Chung Kiu Rd, Sha Tin; 2649 7878; www.regalhotel.com
Silvermine Beach Hotel – An excellent four star beachfront hotel with comfortable rooms and the usual extras, close to the Mui Wo Ferry Pier on Lantau. The restaurant features tasty barbecues and Thai food. 648 Silvermine Bay, Mui Wo, Lantau; 2984-8295; www.resort.com.hk
Where to Eat & Drink
Bookworm Café – Laid-back Lamma institution, serving superb vegetarian food, organic breakfasts, Middle Eastern dishes and homemade cakes. 79 Yung Shue Wan Main St, Lamma Island; 2982 4838; www.bookwormcafe.com.hk
Chuen Kee – This is the pick of Sai Kung’s seafood restaurants, with fresh fish, lobster, crab and abalone all cooked to order from the tanks outside. Average dinners cost around HK$300 per person; it also offers dim sum all day. G/F, 53 Hoi Pong St, Sai Kung Town; 2791-1195.
Honeymoon Dessert – Lauded Cantonese dessert shop, perfect after a day of hiking in Sai Kung Country Park; try the sago, grass jelly, coconut or mango puddings (the latter is what most people line up for). 9 Po Tung Rd, Sai Kung Town; 2243-2576.
Lung Wah Hotel – No longer a hotel but a New Territories restaurant famous for its baby pigeon, boiled, soaked in five spices then deep-fried with a light sugar-coating. 22 Ha Wo Che St, Sha Tin; 2691-1594; www.lungwahhotel.hk
The Stoep – Lantau beachside shack serving South African cuisine (think spicy barbeque, homemade bread and chili prawns), and zesty jugs of Pimms. 32 Lower Cheung Sha Village, Lantau; 2980-2699.
Yue Kee Roasted Goose Restaurant – Worth seeking out for its luscious roast goose dishes, as well as fresh seafood such as salt and pepper squid. 9 Sham Hong Rd, Sham Tseng Village, New Territories (near Tsuen Wan West station); 2491-0105; www.yuekee.com.hk
What to See
Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha – Ngong Ping, Lantau; daily 10am–5.30pm; free; 2985-5669.