Hotel Anacaona, Anguilla

My first trip to the Caribbean was memorable for many reasons, not the least of which was the hotel. It was in Ocho Rios, Jamaica’s tourist and cruise ship hub, a little over an hour’s drive from Montego Bay yet a world away. The property was enveloped in a jungle-like landscape, lushly planted and in flower, and the accommodations were humble yet dignified with plantation furnishings and whirling ceiling fans. It exuded tropical charm and refinement, with (real) planter’s punches at tea time served with toasted coconut chips. It forever influenced my sense of the Caribbean lifestyle; something which bit by bit seems to be slowly disappearing from the region’s lodging offerings what with mega chain development island-wide. The result too often amounts to another over the top luxury hotel with a stamped-out formulaic template at work or an all-inclusive resort catering to girls (and guys and families) gone wild. Well, almost, right?

So, when I stepped foot on the grounds of the Anacaona Hotel, an intimate boutique property set amid a densely planted tropical oasis with roaming chickens (and roosters), scurrying lizards and a friendly cat named Jasper, I knew (like Stella) I’d be getting my Caribbean groove back. Ceiling fans swirled in the lobby and an icy cool rum punch seasoned with nutmeg was placed in my hand quicker than you could say, “jeez it’s hot.”  It was the dead of summer in Anguilla but the smiling faces that greeted me at the Hotel Anacaona reception were an affirmation that indeed the heat would only be an afterthought. The lobby faced a spacious pool and patio lined with swaying palms and a charming spiral staircase and antique wrought iron chandelier gave me the distinct sense that I was back in the Caribbean … with a little help from that rum punch, of course.

Affordable chic, the footprint of the Anacaona, is unique for Anguilla, an island that begs to be different but seems to have somewhat followed its Caribbean neighbors in luring affluent travelers.  There are signs everywhere for luxury villa purchases and rentals and with over 30 stunningly pristine beaches, it’s easy to understand why. But the proud owners of the hotel, no stranger themselves to luxury villa rentals, have taken great pains to preserve an almost colonial quality at the Anacaona, keeping things steeped in Caribbean culture with local art hanging in the lobby and bold splashes of color throughout both public and private spaces.  Firefly, their casual laid back restaurant serves delectable island fare with ingredients fresh from the organic fruit and vegetable garden on the grounds.  And for over 20 years the hotel has been presenting a weekly folklore show every Thursday at 8 pm with a full Caribbean dinner buffet.  As you listen to music and song by the Mayoumba Folkloric Theater, whose repertoire ranges from plaintive local ditties to an appealing version of everyone’s favorite, “Yellow Bird”, you’ll be joining in celebrating a little bit of the island spirit yourself by show’s end.  That’s what a real Caribbean hotel can do to you.

The 27 stylish guest accommodations at the Anacaona are all air conditioned and loaded, ranging from standard doubles to junior suites and villas all with private patios, lanais or balconies and some with kitchenettes.  If it’s available book the Hodge Suite with a full kitchen complete not only with a coffee maker but also a toaster and blender. Once you slip into the bath’s massive raised Jacuzzi with a view to the ocean, you’ll begin to unwind, de-stress and relax and sooner than later you’ll be on Caribbean time yourself.

But if you need more coaxing, just head for the Firefly’s friendly bar where the inventive cocktail menu with a myriad of options for thirsty imbibers is based on the drinker’s current situation. For those who are overheated, there’s the West End Punch, for those on a diet there’s a Citron Presse (with Bacardi Limon, naturally) and for those oversexed (after a few days here in the sensual environment, that’s practically everyone), there’s the Between the Sheets.  But should any of these fail to tempt you, you can just ask for a bottle of champagne and two glasses and head for the sunset over Mead’s Bay, a lovely stroll away through the property’s lushly landscaped grounds, past the second swimming pool and down the coral lined pathway. Don’t be surprised if Jasper is on your tail, however, a cunning feline if ever there was one. After a swim in the turquoise waters, you’ll be transfixed by the beauty surrounding you. And don’t worry about covering up when you’re heading back through the lobby to your suite; you’ll be welcomed in just your swimsuits with open arms. Just watch out for the chicken.

Now that’s just plain Caribbean cool!

 

 

Going the Villa Rental Route

Renting a villa sounds oh so fabulous, right?  Well, this is the island to do it. There are countless available, some on secluded beaches, with butler service and a full time chef.  It’s Robinson Crusoe, but NOT as primitive as can be.  Ken Herbert of Ricketts & Associates is your man. He’s got the 411 on every property, from a lowly $500 a night to $5,000 a night.

But if you’re really up for a splurge, summer of 2014 will see the completion of Celestia, a palatial villa complex adjacent to Shoal Bay.  The property contains 3 separate units, a master residence with an infinity pool with swim-up bar and 2 smaller 4 bedroom units. There is a unique amenity for anyone who’s star struck (and I don’t mean for celebrities). The master villa has 2 clam shell observatories for star gazing, one housed in a free standing structure and the other above the master bedroom.  Now, that’s our idea of a luxurious extravagance.