Hotel La Bourdonnais, Paris

The taxi makes a sharp U-turn and glides to a stop in front of Hotel La Bourdonnais.  A pretty mademoiselle is kneeling on top of her hard case, holding the pull-up handle with one hand, the other clutching a handsome monsieur’s face and neck.  They’re locked tight in a moment of passion while waiting for their pick-up.  It’s the kind of scene outside a hotel that makes you wonder what happened inside prior to this moment. Once inside I can easily imagine.

An intimate lobby flashes of gold leaf and it makes a bold statement everywhere; it seems that many of the surfaces have been touched by Midas. The delicate metal gleams inside an inlaid coffered ceiling, around flashy sconces and behind reception in a massive disc of crushed gold harboring a tiny spotlight. A vase of big red and white anthuriums reminds you that this is Paris, expect the unexpected, the tightly packed flowers looking quite at home outside the tropics.  Dimly lit cozy spaces adjoin the lobby, a symbol of its boutique status and inviting guests to relax and unwind.  Books stacked on end and tied with twine, antique curios and bibelots, a stray periscope, ostrich egg or tiny spinning globe line the many shelves.  Inside the adjacent Salon de The, a nature theme takes over with a mature starfish and giant coral propped on easels and grandma’s old RCA Victor phonograph taking center stage at the entrance. My one desire?  Can I play it?

The whole effect is super sensuous. We need a coffee as we’ve slept all of 2 hours on the flight over and it’s pushing noon. Our doting server Anne-Marie swiftly brings us 2 café au laits.  Breakfast is over, there’s a hush over the surroundings and I take it all in – the quirky ultra-stylized atmosphere of Hotel La Bourdonnais.  I will soon learn that it’s a bit of an oasis in the 7^th arrondissement.  Beginning with the neighborhood and its proximity to both the Champs de Mar and the Eiffel Tower (10 minute walk) as well as the quirky Paris Sewers Museum and the adjacent Seine, its trump card is the adjacent “other” arrondissement, the trendy 6^th, with the Musee d’Orsay, great shopping and the endless cafes of St. Germain des Pres. Not to mention the famous Jardins du Luxembourg.  Location is everything in Paris and the hotel’s intimate size immediately registers as the perfect romantic hideaway.

Choose your accommodation based on your personality.  Street facing rooms are for diehard extroverts and top floor units have full views of the Eiffel Tower with tiny balconies for budding Romeos & Juliets to experience.  Our Junior Suite provided us with 2 balconies, one right off the bath, perfect for feeling like you were showering outdoors.  Go outside and air dry in your bathrobe.  Don’t worry about the neighbors across the street; I got the feeling they’re used to it.  Introverts will crave a back room facing the (very quiet) inner courtyard.  These suites are like little artist garrets with push out windows that let in diffused light that’s perfect for painting or, well, other things  …  you get the picture? You will relish the privacy especially if you’re not alone. The furnishings are streamlined to a fault in order to accommodate the big built-in cabinetry that’s standard in every room.  No space for all those new things you bought at the Kenzo Boutique on Rue de Rennes?  Fuhgettaboutit!  There is plenty of room with hangers to spare.  You gotta love that!  Nespresso machines and Hermes amenities are standard in every room because who can keep going in Paris without another coffee?

It’s so easy to make a mistake in any big city as far as a hotel goes. This is one that takes pride in its positioning and gives you not only tremendous value but a little something extra.  You just may wind up spending a bit more time in your room than you planned.  Especially if you want to savor the magical romance of Paris with that special someone.  Isn’t that what great hotels are all about in the end?