Few places in the world are as intrinsically tied to a beverage as the Scottish island of Islay, home to the world’s finest collection of peated single malts. Sure, you can visit Champagne and pop into the esteemed maisons, but it’s no major challenge to get to that region just an hour from Charles De Gaulle.
You have to be committed to get to Islay. The island sits off the west coast of Scotland, not far as the crow flies from Glasgow. Alas, the roads take a far more circuitous route and you will inevitably find yourself in the middle of nowhere, queued up for a ginormous CALMAC ferry. This is a place called Kennacraig and there is nothing there except a pier. The ferries are well run although the state of the boat may range from merely ship worthy to plush depending on which vessel you find yourself aboard for the two-hour cruise.
Whisky Demands Time
There is no way around it. If you want to be a proper Scotch whisky (hence the lack of the letter ‘e’ in the word), you need to be aged for a minimum of 3 years and a day. Of course, no one drinks 3-year-old whisky in Scotland, and certainly not a single malt that young. You are looking for 10, 12, 15, 18, even 21-year olds.
Whisky drinking in the U.S. is an expensive habit with entry-level bottles ranging from $50 up to a few thousand for rare bottlings from shuttered distilleries. But Islay proves to be much more wallet-friendly than you’d expect as you can drink very well at the distilleries for less than $10 a dram. Even rarer limited production and distillery exclusives are often less than $20. Of course, you will have to surrender yourself to the luxurious peatiness of Islay whisky, which is not for everyone.
So, you’ve made it to Islay and want to drink some whisky. A good plan of attack is to take 1 or 2 tours maximum. Whisky production is fairly straightforward but also a bit mind-numbing as these days there’s not all that much to see. One of the best parts is rarely done at the distilleries now – that’s the malting which gives Islay whisky its peatiness. This is now handled in a big facility outside of Port Ellen. You’re on Islay, so take the opportunity to drink the stuff rather than stare at fermentation tanks and such.
Lagavulin
Lagavulin is perhaps the most respected of the Islay producers and I recommend starting either there or at Ardbeg with a proper tour. Then trek up to Bowmore or even Caol Ila on the northern part of the island to see some variation in the process, not to mention stunning vistas.
Like all Islay distilleries, Lagavulin is dealing with some serious worldwide demand and recently introduced an 8-year-old to market alongside the widely known delicious 16-year-old. Such are the decisions dictated by market demands – you might guess I am no fan of the existence of Lagavulin 8 – so that is better left undiscussed. The 16, however, is a benchmark single malt and, if you’re not familiar, a good place to start. Lagavulin also produces a fair number of other whiskies, from the bottle released for the annual Islay Festival (Feis Ile) to cask strength bottlings. The tasting room is charmingly decked out like an old drawing room complete with fireplace and old photos. Enjoy a taste here or head to the Dramming Bar out back for a proper experience complete with cocktails, coffee and of course, more whisky.
Ardbeg
Up the road from Lagavulin is Ardbeg, which makes for a good mid-day option, not least due to the offerings at their café. But first, take the unmarked single lane road between the distilleries down to the ruined Dunyvaig Castle. Park at the end of the road and don’t worry about the fellow living in the house there, he’ll throw up a lanky arm and wave. Follow the path down through the heather for views of Lagavulin Bay, the distillery and castle ruins dating to the 17th century.
After this short digression, you arrive at vibrant Ardbeg where you can sample drams from one of the island’s youngest distilleries. Something is always going on at Ardbeg, which has embarked on an expansion and beautification project. If the weather is nice, grab a picnic table and enjoy a dram and a plate from the Old Kiln Café. Ardbeg’s core range includes Ten, An Oa, Uigeadail and Corryvreckan – the last named for a famous whirlpool at the distillery’s water supply. Creativity is more on display here than at other distilleries, with the core four supplemented by more creative annual offerings. Last year was Kelpie and this year it is something called Grooves. Both are limited editions and worth a taste, if not the price of a full bottle.
Laphroaig
Laphroaig bustles more than the other two distilleries perhaps due to its slightly closer proximity to Port Ellen. The best distillery bar on Islay is here, where they serve up lots of whisky options, so you can taste before you buy in the adjacent shop. Laphroaig also has an informative, free museum devoted to whisky production where you can see everything that goes into the process and even get up close and personal with the island’s famous peat.
Bowmore
Bowmore is the most bustling town on the island, which isn’t saying all that much for a place with only about 3,000 inhabitants. The namesake distillery happens to be the islands oldest, established in 1779. Its best feature is the bar overlooking the sea; just enter the shop and climb the stairs behind the cashier. When you show up there, they’ll offer to pour you an ounce of Bowmore 12 for free – let them. We tried the Bowmore 15 and a “Warehouseman’s Select” as well, but truthfully the 12 is a classic for a reason. Keep in mind, the bar inexplicably closes at 4:30 pm in high season.
The village itself unfurls upon a series of hills along the waterfront. Drop into SPAR Bowmore, kind of a combo grocery and whisky purveyor. You’ll find SPAR shops around Scotland that are usually more along the lines of an upscale 7-11, but Bowmore’s is stocked with hard-to-find whiskies.
Up the hill is the town’s famous round church, the Kilarrow Church, constructed in 1767. Take in the sweeping views of the harbor and island beyond, assuming it’s not shrouded in Islay’s often impenetrable mist. Lore has it that the church is round so there would be no corners for the devil to hide in. Personally, I think if the devil ever made it to Islay, he’d be much more inclined to visit a whisky warehouse than a church. But to each his own. More whisky for us!
Tips for Visitors to Islay:
- Ferry booking: Space exists for maybe 50 cars, vans and trucks so book in advance if you’re traveling with a vehicle in high season. CALMAC runs 4 to 6 ferries a day, with the earliest one generally around 7am. Get there no later than 30 minutes prior to sailing. Onboard, there is a shop with surprisingly good whisky prices along with a restaurant and café. The wi-fi works in fits and starts but the views are spectacular so leave the modern world behind. calmac.co.uk/article/2971/Islay-Kennacraig—Port-EllenPort-Askaig
- If you want to hit the main distilleries like Lagavulin and Laphroaig, take the ferry to Port Ellen. These tend to be the morning ferries as afternoon ferries often go to Port Askaig on the northern part of Islay.
- The distilleries tend to all close by 5pm, if not earlier. Check winter hours as they can be much shorter, and some will close for long periods in the offseason. Intro level tours start at around £6 – £10 and always include a taste of whisky. Booking in advance is recommended.
- Scotland’s roads are not its best attribute. Outside of towns, heck even within some of them, they are one way with occasional turn offs for passing. Take it slow and yield if you are closer to a turn off.
- Islay is notoriously wet and windy so be prepared for frequently changing weather, even in summer.
- Lodging runs the gamut on Islay from the swanky 3-bedroom Seaview Cottage at Ardbeg (£250 per night/ £1,700 per week), to the well-appointed Islay Hotel which opened in 2011. The latter has the advantage of a well-run restaurant and whisky bar on the ground floor. ardbeg.com/en-FR/visit-us/seaview-cottage; www.theislayhotel.com