All Photos Credit Cynthia Dial
A land of lakes and streams, forests and wildlife, the Continental Divide and the Colorado River – meet Grand County, Colorado.
Some back story: I’ve visited several of the Centennial State’s destinations over the years, but I kept missing Grand County. That changed. After landing at DIA (Denver International Airport), directions were basic – head west to US-40, proceed across the Continental Divide and continue toward Rocky Mountain National Park through such towns as Winter Park and Granby before heading north on US-34 to the community of Grand Lake.
Said to “owe its very existence to the rugged beauty of the Rocky Mountains,” Grand Lake is an old resort town with a rich history of trailblazing settlers and outdoor adventurers. Today’s vacation getaway showcases these beginnings with its pioneer museum, frequent in-town wildlife sightings, a wooden boardwalk flanked by back-in-the-day clapboard storefronts and an aquatic life centered around the lake.
Visually alluring, a stroll along Grand Avenue took me past park benches, flower baskets overflowing in season and US flags flying amid assorted art galleries, one-of-a-kind boutiques and antique shops. Interspersed were food and beverage opportunities ranging from old-fashioned ice cream parlors, candy stores and coffee houses to ethnic restaurants and downhome-style cafes. All underscored Grand Lake’s recognition as one of North America’s best lake towns.
A short walk from Grand Avenue, the town’s ‘main’ street, was its eponymous body of water. Noted as Colorado’s largest and deepest natural lake (covering more than 500 acres with a depth up to 400 feet), this geographic magnet was flanked by Lakeshore Park – with a small beach, some picnic tables, a dock with scattered seating and access to all the water sports activities.
Upping the ante was the town’s range of eclectic dining possibilities. Sagebrush BBQ & Grill, situated within the former County Courthouse and embellished by Western decor, was known for its hardy selections and wide variety of tap beers. Decorated in bright primary colors, the atmosphere of One Love Rum Kitchen was as fun as its menu – from its signature Pain Killer cocktail (said to be the “cousin to the pina colada”) to the coconut rum chicken entrée. But the most unexpected discovery, Rapids Lodge & Restaurant, was found on the banks of the Tonahutu River and reached by walking through the parking lot of the town’s old-time, motel-style accommodations. Established in 1915, it’s an intimate, rustic-style riverside restaurant. The mango flounder with mango beurre blanc sauce, a menu standout, was my trip’s favorite entrée. And an early-morning pop-in at Blue Water Bakery Café is mandatory for its homemade pastries.
Shopping is abundant here. Stores reflected the surroundings with tributes of all kinds to bear, moose and the Rockies and geared to a fashionably-Colorado lifestyle. Among my personal choices were Mountain Gal, self-described “mountain chic,” and Altitude, a jewelry store that featured the handcrafted work of artist/owner Rachel Rayburn.
I didn’t anticipate top-quality live entertainment in this town of less than 500 residents. Yet, its professional summer musical playhouse (late May to mid-September) – Rocky Mountain Repertory Theater – long ago established a reputation for “bringing some of Broadway’s biggest hits to Grand Avenue” by offering summer residencies to some of the theater world’s best up-and-coming stage actors. My selection, “Almost Heaven,” was a musical inspired by native-son John Denver and reinforced these accolades.
The destination’s biggest lure, Rocky Mountain National Park, has long been the number-one attraction of its gateway, Grand County – drawing three million visitors a year. Founded in 1915, this wilderness reserve’s history was storied as its land was acquired by the US in 1803 with the Louisiana Purchase. At 7,522 feet, it represents the country’s highest-in-elevation national park and features more than 300 miles of hiking trails, including a 30-mile portion of the 3,100-mile Canada-to-Mexico Continental Divide Scenic Trail. Uniquely connected to the Continental Divide, this county is home to more than 100 miles of the trail, which passes through the town and serves up numerous access points.
To best experience Grand County, the key is to hike. With opportunities for all – from master mountaineers to first-time trekkers – my hike perfectly matched my beginner skills. With its trailhead near town, East Inlet Trail was as convenient as it was photogenic. Complete with peaceful meadows, granite boulders and serene lakes, it was less than a mile into the hike before reaching its reward – Adams Falls. And in pursuit of the 1,450-mile Colorado River’s modest headwaters was Coyote Valley Trail, a one-mile round-trip loop of no elevation in Kawuneeche Valley.
Open seasonally (usually beginning late May), Grand Lake Lodge – a rustic Rocky Mountain resort overlooking the lake – was an unbeatable lodging choice. Iconic since 1920 and recognized as a National Historic Landmark, history was everywhere. Originally within the boundaries of the park, it now sits within walking distance of it. Sited at an elevation of 8,769 feet, its views are some of the region’s best. Dubbed “Colorado’s favorite front porch,” Deer Deck – with a circular fireplace and oversized sundeck overlooking the lake and town – is a top attraction. Complemented by an assortment of cozy cabins and the main lodge’s Huntington House Tavern, the resort ticked all the boxes.
As I retraced my previous steps back to the airport along US-40 and over the Continental Divide, John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High” lyrics heard during the last night’s musical performance reverberated in my head. They summed up my introduction to Colorado’s Grand County:
Coming home to a place I’d never been before.