A bright pink neon sign displaying the word “BAR” leads you into Jeffrey’s. It’s a telling marker for Austin’s most lauded restaurant, buzzing with every table full on a Friday night at 10 p.m. Having pounded the streets of Texas’ culturally rich capital for much of the day, we were good and ready to give in to a drink and an adventurous craft cocktail list by Josh Loving was full of surprises. We liked the sound of the Brotherly Love (I’m a Philly guy after all) with Philadelphia’s Bluecoat Gin, St. Germaine and Domaine de Canton, a luscious exotic ginger liqueur. A wonderful riff on a Far Eastern martini, the flavor profile was sensory. The Violet Translation was the perfect complement blending Martin Miller gin with Green Chartreuse, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur and Crème de Violette, a concoction that could easily have transported us to the Alps where the native purple wildflowers are found. We loved both, savoring the chilly libations while observing the restaurant’s scene, a popular late night hub in Clarksville, a chic yet understated downtown neighborhood, especially when their martini cart is making the rounds.
It’s an intimate space that feels like a laid back yet sophisticated country club, with dangerously low wattage throughout, perfect for a romantic tryst. The interior is broken up into 3 distinctly different areas, dark, woodsy and clubby and fitted out with velvets, boldly patterned carpet and contemporary art. There’s a nice sized Texas sycamore paneled bar fronting cushy cozy club chairs and intimate bar tables. A desk lamp kitchen boasts a wood-burning hearth and is in full view of the bustling dining room providing a glimpse of the chefs in action. All tables are dressed with fresh flowers in tiny earthen orbs sprouting Rothschild lilies, perennially pleasant to admire.
To attempt to remake this Austin institution was a bold undertaking and owner/chefs Larry McGuire and Thomas Moorman seemingly rose to the occasion. The recently reopened Jeffrey’s is a re-imagined renovation of the beloved 38 year old restaurant, first opened in 1975, and is now a neighborhood favorite for fine dining with strengths in dry aged beef and French American classics. Our server McVay filled us in on some of the night’s special dishes and ventured a few recommendations from the sumptuous leather bound menu, nice, as Chef Josh Heinz’ carte is a complex culinary map. A complimentary Foie Ravioli with Bay Scallops and a “Pistou” of English peas ignited our interest and proved that we had to think outside the box as far as choices.
We began with a baby Yellowtail Carpaccio with Asian pear and a Persimmon and Duck Confit salad, both sparingly light, the yellowtail sweet and enlivened by the fruit while the salad was complex with flavor, thanks to a brown butter crème fraiche and Meyer Lemon vinaigrette. I’m forever confusing persimmons with pomegranates but McVay assured me there was little similarity. This was a salad that surprises with unusual tastes, a winner in my book. For entrees it was meat all the way, after all this was Texas. We weren’t sorry about the obvious choice and devoured a Chateaubriand with a Bordelaise Sauce and a Pave of Potatoes and a Grilled Pork Chop with roasted Cipollini onions.
No room for dessert? Are you kidding? Now I have to wonder who really can pass up a Baked Alaska. Chef Josh updated the mysterious American favorite with an almond cake, grappa ice cream and a dollop of cranberry sauce encircling the famous torched meringue casing. The presentation took us back 35 years to when Jeffrey’s first opened and we added a little chocolate pot de crème with whipped cream to satisfy our midnight chocolate craving.
Our exit was reluctant especially as the lively bar beckoned and even though outside, Clarksville seemed to have gone to sleep, downtown Austin’s famed nightlife close by was just getting started. We couldn’t help humming the Monkees’ Last Train to Clarksville on the way even though we didn’t need to take it. Jeffrey’s was happy to provide their private driver to taxi us. What a civilized idea!