Wow, talk about an entrance. After a breathtaking drive over the Rickenbacker Causeway out of Miami to Key Biscayne, the landmarked Rusty Pelican creates big drama. Like most restaurants hugging the water, the approach sets up expectations for a true waterfront dining experience. As one of the Florida Keys made famous during the Nixon administration as the site of his Florida White House, Key Biscayne maintains a certain mystique. Its allure is well-known in the Miami area and the Rusty Pelican, with breathtaking views, has a pedigree to match. Celebrating its 40th birthday and a $7 million head to toe renovation, the newly transformed space has emerged as a contemporary hotspot.
The mid-century vibe in the entrance clues you in to the restaurant’s past, the modernist décor beautifully detailed yet warm and approachable. The main dining room embraces casual with an earth tone color palette and incorporates cool 60’s style custom furnishings, lots of wood and eclectic lighting. Windows on Miami’s skyline are a big draw. Have a Pelican Caipirinha in the chic bar overlooking Biscayne Bay and let the refreshing pineapple juice and fresh basil steer you to the adventurous menu. This room, along with a rustic patio, combine to create an indoor/outdoor lounge with enough space for a large party. Stylish low-slung couches and a VIP room outfit the perfect social scene.
Executive chef Michael Gilligan, known for his creativity and South Florida savvy, ups the ante with a menu that centers on innovative American cuisine and an eye toward small plates ideal for sharing. With more than 20 mix and match options, it’ll be tough to make a decision but in a seafood environment like this it’s a good idea to try the crabcake first. Here it’s baked and served with a chipotle aioli, a nice variation. After getting your feet wet go out on a limb and try one of Michael’s compositions like the eel and foie gras with tostones and a soy truffle glaze. Your taste buds will love the subtle flavors. Segue to an Ahi tuna taco served with guacamole, which in my mind is the only way to do seafood and Mexican.
These first courses will give you a sense of the restaurant’s DNA and Chef Gilligan’s unique touch. Opt for seafood for the mains as the choices are great like a tableside poured Bouillabaisse, the fish stew fragrant with saffron and the fish so fresh, each forkful breaks into smaller bits before devouring. The sautéed local black sea bass was also a winner, the firm-fleshed fish served with green and white asparagus in a cinnamon broth. Talk about a surprise preparation. Desserts find their way classically in a memorable Baked Alaska and Florida’s signature Key Lime pie. Never have I wanted more to ask for the recipe.
A big plus after dinner … firepits outside provide the perfect setting for romance! Order a St. Emilion and bask in the glory of Miami’s seaside.
The Rusty Pelican
3201 Rickenbacker Causeway
Key Biscayne, Fl. 33149
305-361-3818
www.therustypelican.com