Last Minute Winter Travel: Anchorage’s Iditarod Race

Months before stepping foot in Anchorage I was told that the winter had been unseasonably warm; there hadn’t been much snow.  This was something of a revelation as I was anticipating freezing temperatures too low to imagine and what I’d need to buy before I left to keep warm (snow boots and pants for sure).  With a little anxiety, I began checking temperatures about 8 weeks prior to leaving and just before departing I was relieved when I saw the latest temperature was 34 degrees. I had just spent over $600 on snow gear; would there even be snow?  Oh well, it’s Alaska; it could change in a minute, I reasoned.

The plan was to do some downhill skiing then partake in the raucous festivities of something called the “Fur Rondy” and the Iditarod.  I guess I must be living under a rock because I had no idea what either of those were; later, in speaking to folks in conversation I was embarrassed to find out how many people knew about the latter.  Spoiler alert:  If like me you’re not in the loop, the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race is one of the most iconic activities that Alaska is known for as sled dog racing is the official state sport. Held once a year in March the long distance run kicks off ceremonially in Anchorage (with the real start the next day) and puts mushers to the challenge of racing 21 dogs through sub-zero temperatures, blizzards and whiteouts all the way to Nome. Begun back in 1973 it’s something of a legend now, connecting to the state’s traditions with dog mushing.  The “Rondy”, as it’s called, is a 10-day winter festival bookending the event and it too is a significant part of the history of Anchorage.  Stemming from the time when fur trappers brought their goods to market, it’s basically a round the clock party with lots of fur. Sounds like a hoot, right?

So, how did I miss all of this?

I wondered myself, then came up with the only sensible answer.  Alaska is kind’ve a world away from the lower 48 states.  And that’s a good thing because that’s what makes the destination so appealing, the otherworldliness.  And also, I hadn’t done my homework.

We found our way to Anchorage by way of the Alaska Railroad, a 12 hour train adventure that’s spectacular on scenery and we’d done a little prep for the festivities by going dog mushing in Fairbanks, the origin of the Aurora Winter Train.  You cannot go to Alaska and miss dog mushing, ok?  It’s like going to Venice and not going on a gondola ride. Fairbanks, being relatively close to the Arctic Circle, was much colder and there was lots of snow but outside the city. Regardless, we were able to comprehend the excitement of the sport and the dogs were ready to hit the trail!  But the advance word was that there was no snow down in Anchorage and for the first time in 43 years they would have to truck it in from Fairbanks. Jeez, I’d never heard of transporting snow.  In this case, no snow, no race I guess. Not an option in Alaska!

And so, with a trail of white corn mush lining Cordova St. and many of the past winners down with colds and flu, the Iditarod got loudly underway with 85 mushers participating in the 1,000 mile dog sled race.  And an estimated 15,000 people were gathered around Willow Lake the day after to send their teams down the trail.  We had queued up early on the first day to partake in the excitement of the ceremonial starting shot after trudging in the corn in our brand new boots. Truth be told it was not easy. One by one the teams took off, each with a flourish of flags and a medley of barks, all ready for the challenge. The curbside activity with many of the spectators in traditional fur garb was a show in itself.  After the final team jumped the starting line, it was time for the Running of the Reindeer. Kids, this is one for the record books.  A half-dozen reindeer are let loose to run with a crowd of crazy spectators in running attire almost the full length of Cordova St.. It was pretty hilarious. Even the reindeers looked to be having fun beating out their opponents.

So what had we learned that Alaskans get excited about?  Snow!

And that’s exactly what revved our motors when we saw the ski slopes at Alyeska Resort.  A 40 minute drive out of Anchorage and you’re in the middle of the mountains with snow all around. The resort is a ski in/out alpine dream with over 76 trails, more than a few climbing to skyscraper heights accounting for its “steep and deep” reputation.  After 2 incredible days we departed under a skyful of flurries (yes, we finally saw some snow) to Whittier where we joined the Lazy Otter Charter’s Blackstone Glacier Cruise on Prince William Sound. My past experience with glaciers was climbing one in Norway and it was not without a little bit of danger but this one promised the armchair version along with spectacular views.  Our captain, Ben, powered us way out into the Sound, the icy indigo waters like a sheet of glass against the blinding snowbanks towering ahead of us. I stepped out onto the bow of the cruiser for a minute and surveyed the conditions.  It was frigid but clear, calm and peaceful.  We were journeying up Blackstone Bay to two tidewater glaciers, Beloit and Blackstone, and in less than one hour we’d be sitting at the face of a wall of ice. Soon enough our compact glacier cutter slowed to a putter into the cracks and crevices of the ice floes all around us, skimming larger chunks as we continued to a safe nook where we could disembark. It was a bit of a surprise to everyone onboard that we were getting off the boat but after two hours of sailing I think everyone needed a stretch. A warm sun beat down on us as our hostess Leah got us psyched to discover the natural geology of this glacier carved fjord. I felt a few beads of sweat on my back once onshore and thought once again of the atmospheric conditions, forever on your mind in Alaska.

The last day brought with it a beautiful memory maker, flightseeing over the area in a tiny float plane. We’d been primed a year earlier, having flown in a tiny 4 seater over the mountains of Whitehorse in Canada’s Yukon province. It was shaky that day and we opted to head back to base ahead of schedule.  Today’s weather was near to glorious, sunny with super clear visibility. We climbed aboard the tiny red and white aircraft with a window seat on the action – a 90 minute Glacier & Wildlife Tour to see how the relentless flow of the famous “rivers of ice” have shaped the land.  Within minutes we were soaring over towering Knik Glacier, one of Alaska’s biggest and most spectacular glaciers, then gliding over the Chugach Mountains to the Knik River Valley spotting Dall sheep and mountain goats. Our pilot seemed hell bent on showing us Sarah Palin’s compound and at about an hour into it there it was just below us. Pretty big and with a helicopter to boot! There is truly nothing like this kind of experience where you are thrust right in the middle of nature’s wonders.  The scenery was unbelievable and the colors of the ice everywhere bled from blinding silver to shimmery lavender.  Never did I think that ice (and snow) could be so beautiful. We landed right on the ice feeling like we’d been given a little window onto what life is like in Alaska.

Our final hours in Anchorage brought a surprise mini thrill.  Heading back to town for the finale of Fur Rondy we found ourselves at the little amusement park set up right at the city’s edge. We bought a raft of tickets and feeling like kids proceeded to try all the rides. The air was brisk, sure, but we were hardly freezing. When our Ferris Wheel car stopped at the top it struck me that I’d never been on a Ferris Wheel in winter. And as a chilly breeze caressed my face I tried to appreciate what an Alaskan would find commonplace.  The state’s alternative culture had settled in me and gazing at that panoramic view one last time – the snow-capped mountains looming in the distance all around – I felt certain I’d been given a little gift, the chance to know a very special place.

 

*The 2017 Iditarod gets underway this year in Anchorage on Saturday, March 4, 2017. 

**The IditaRider Auction allows fans to bid on the opportunity to ride in their favorite musher’s sled during the first 11 miles of the race.