It’s obvious when a restaurant’s got the buzz and the very trendy Le Club has it! Situated in the red hot old city of Montréal in a building that’s of another era, its entrance is marked by a wordless iconic sign decorated with a discreet coat of arms-like design. A few steps down lands you in a cavelike setting, standard we learned for many old city historic joints in the Old Port neighbourhood but LCCeP is definitely a stand-out among them. Indeed, it does look like a private club but one from the here and now.
Gun metal grey walls diffuse the subterranean feel while whimsical animal lighting by Antoine Laverdiere adds a quirky edginess to the low-ceilinged space. A fantastic patterned ceiling provides a stimulating visual while waiting to be seated. We have Bruno Braën to thank for the overall sexy supper club look and feel with comfy leather captain’s chairs and tables set with the restaurant’s signature service. Opened since December, 2004, Le Club has been consistently wowing its regular patrons and visitors alike. Check out Nicolas Baier’s haunting digital photographs while sipping a cocktail and prepare to be dazzled by Chef Claude Pelletier and Hubert Marsolais’s short but innovative menu which changes weekly and features top-notch Canadian ingredients.
Start with the seared scallops with fennel puree in a lemon confit, perfect golden brown baubles and a signature of the house that’s a must try. Pair them with the oysters with charisma, luscious with a celeriac velouté, crème fraiche and Breviro caviar, a true rarity. Canada’s oysters are in a place all their own, especially in prime season, and it would be foolish to pass on a preparation so beautifully orchestrated. Order a bottle of the Lou Coucardie, 2004, a complex white from the Costieres de Nimes’ Michele Gassier and consider a pasta course to complement it. Le Chasse has made a name for itself with Claude’s suckling pig risotto, a staple at his former restaurant, Cube, and served with foie gras shavings that melt in your mouth with the slightly nutty wine.
Claude’s dishes will have you eagerly awaiting the next course but take my advice and share the signature Chasse et Peche for your main course and leave room for dessert. The new take on surf and turf pairs two of the chef’s choices, from rack of lamb and a lovely, lightly broiled tuna to a roasted duck and a Gaspé char served with black trumpet mushrooms, fingerling potatoes and sea urchin. Give in to the chef’s whim here, you won’t be disappointed.
Pastry chef, Masami Waki’s enchanting world of inventively original desserts may tempt you to order a bottle of the ice apple cider. Even if it isn’t summer outside, go for it. Sip this nectar of the gods while you savor every morsel of the maple caramel cake with a poached apple and vanilla ice cream. You’re in Québec after all and you won’t get off without eating something maple!
Le Club Chasse et Peche
423 rue St.-Claude
Vieux Montréal
514-861-0666
www.leclubchasseetpeche.com