If you’re in Montréal and really want to channel a French groove, head to Leméac. When this bilingual city has gotten its hooks into you and you’re practically becoming a Francophile, there is no better place to discover. The elegant vibe is close to Brasserie Lipp or La Coupole in Paris with all the trendy Québecois hanging out – but heuresement, no smoking, of course. Like all great bistros, Leméac’s menu offers the must-haves like steak frites, pave de foie de veau (slab of veal liver), boudin maison (house-made sausage), braised short ribs and cabillaud (Icelandic cod) but with a new twist on these French classics. Freshness and simplicity in tandem with quality ingredients makes for a superb dining experience.
A long bar with groovy mid-century stools grounds the space, perfect for some oysters and champagne. Tables are organized cafeteria style, small butting against big, and are covered with white waxed paper to complete the brasserie feel. Dark wood panelled partitions give the restaurant a retro feel and a bold patterned floor pops against the visual calm. A long, single track fixture suspended from the ceiling lights the space east to west and north to south, its focus upward. The effect is dim so love it if it’s a bad hair day for you. Immense windows in the dining room overlooking rue Laurier allow for optimum views of one of Montréal’s best thoroughfares in trendy Outremont or have a Kir Royale and some escargots in the beautiful heated patio on the garden side.
The ambitious menu reaches far beyond standard bistro fare. Start with one of Chef Louis Morin’s seasonal favourites like the butternut squash gratinee or the house made potted rillettes. The chef does a great job of reinterpreting the dishes you crave when the bistro mood strikes and nothing says that like a classic rillette, similar to a pate but (usually) made with pork and much more satisfying since the cooked meat is cooled in its’ fat, giving it a richer flavor. Served with a fresh baguette, it’s the perfect foil for a naturally sweet soup and irresistible. Try the delicately prepared vegetable tian on the side, a little cake of warm slivered vegetables (sliced zucchini, tomato and onion) covered with a veil of melted cheese. Bistro fare isn’t usually lauded for its’ health factor but here it’s some comfort to know that someone is thinking organically. With that in mind, entrees like a sea salt salmon pot au feu, a perfectly seasoned and cooked filet topping a healthful mound of tiny new potatoes, baby carrots and Brussels sprouts in their broth as well as a glistening roasted cod, with fennel and a potato puree are practically eligible for spa menu status.
After exercising such restraint and not giving in to the braised beef short rib and barley stew, you can spring for the chocolate profiteroles and the coffee flavored crème caramel for dessert, both of which have surely been on your mind since you put down your menu. You won’t want to leave Leméac without a taste of both of these!
The restaurant is great for night owls and encourages them. On a Sunday evening after 10, the place was bustling. A fixed price menu of $25 (an appetizer and an entree) starts at 10 pm which may be the catalyst. With an enormous selection of wines by the glass, why not plan on a tasting with a little food on the side?
Leméac
1045 rue Laurier Ouest (corner of Durocher)
Outremont
Montreal, Quebec
514-270-0999