Lima, Peru

Lima, “The City of Kings”, is the fifth largest city in Latin America and was once the capital of South America.  Straddling the coast of the Pacific Ocean, it’s known for its’ Incan ruins surrounding modern urban enclaves built during Spanish colonialism. Striking baroque architecture from that period abounds and can be seen in many government buildings, churches and historical houses.  In fact the entire historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  From May through December, the sky is often dull with low clouds and dense fog, an aspect that perhaps adds a certain air of mystery.  Regardless of the weather, surfing aficionados flock here from all over the world for a chance to ride Lima’s consistently perfect waves.  Peruvian cuisine, considered among the world’s most delectable, is said to taste best in Lima.

Although many travelers headed to Machu Picchu overlook the city, it’s well worth a short detour.  Consider spending one long day there to get a sense of the Peruvian lifestyle and culture.

Barios Altos – City Center

Start the day at the Plaza Bolivar where both the Peruvian Congress Building and the Museum of the Inquisition are located.  These provide a wonderful beginning to the history of Lima for any visitor.

The Museum of the Inquisition happens to be not only free but also one of Lima’s most popular. The museum is set in the pillared colonial-style mansion where the Inquisition took place from 1570-1820.  Those accused of heresy and ordered to burn publicly awaited their fate in dark cells in the dungeon.  If the context of the museum doesn’t make you queasy, the wax figurines of people being tortured might.  Still, the museum does a great job of explaining the ramifications of the Inquisition and the history of Spanish eminence in Peru.

Following the Inquisition, this colonial mansion became the Senate building. Upstairs is the university library, noted for its elaborate carved wood ceiling. Nearby is the Church and Monastery of San Francisco – once used as the city’s main graveyard. Twenty five thousand people are buried here in crypts.  Extensive tunnels leading from the crypts to important buildings are said to exist, but so far have not been excavated.  Above ground, the church and monastery are very impressive and the vast library houses thousands of theological texts.  Afterward, grab a taxi to the upscale neighborhood, Miraflores and ask to be taken to El Parque Del Amor.

Miraflores – Love Park

You’ll find it hard to resist the charm of this park set high on the cliffs of Chorrillos overlooking the ocean and dedicated entirely to amor. A giant statue of lovers embracing in a kiss, crafted in mosaics and inscribed with quotes about love beckons hopeless romantics.  A scenic coastal path along the ridge of the park leads in either direction from “El Beso” (as it is commonly known) trailing through the park’s dense foliage.  Far below, miniature surfers carve through tiny white crests.

After Love Park, check out the small street between Parque Kennedy and Bellavista, locally known as theCalle de las Pizzas, Pizza Street. This touristy corridor promises an air of festivity. As you stroll along, waiters in open doors shout that their pizzas are the cheapest and most delicious. “Come try,” they beckon, promising a free pisco sour, the exotic Peruvian cocktail made with grape liquor.

Eat those pizzas if you like otherwise stroll over to Café de la Paz, right in front of Kennedy Park. The atmosphere here is old-world, the views are nice, and the Peruvian-French food is delicious.  Afterward, no matter what sightseeing course you take, be sure to stop in for a coffee or cold drink at Haiti café on the Ovalo, near El Pacifico Theater.  As popular with locals as tourists, this double-level, high-brow café is a favorite haunt of politicians and wealthy businesswomen.  The outside terrace overlooks the Ovalo, one of the busiest streets in Miraflores.

From here, again, get a cab and head to Barranco.

Barranco

Located south of Miraflores, Barranco is a colorful neighborhood with a bohemian flair.  Once a coastal resort, many well-to-do artists have taken up residence here and the numerous clubs and cafés are extremely popular. It’s the party section of the city, where you find the most Peñas –music clubs offering folkloric music shows, in particular Afro Peruvian and Criollo performances. This is a great neighborhood to hear live music and many of the venues are within walking distance of each other. On weekends, restaurants in Barranco participate in a food festival known as A Taste of Barranco , where outdoor tables are filled with every imaginable Peruvian dish.  Take a romantic walk along the Puente de los Suspiros, the Bridge of Sighs (one block from Parque Municipal).  Shaded with flowering trees, this secluded walkway leads under a wooden bridge to a cliff with sweeping views of the sea.

After a long, full day in this beautiful city hop over to Bar Mochileros where you can sip pisco sours and reflect on all that Lima has afforded you in a short space of time.  If you are enroute to Machu Picchu you will have had a nice introduction and will most likely think about spending another day there on the return.