Liverpool, a Tale of Two Cities

Geographically situated in the UK’s northwest, Liverpool has been around for centuries. And in all that time it has been many things from a historic maritime port to the home of the legendary Beatles.  Liverpool fell victim to the bombing blitz of World War II and evidence of the damage sustained still remains in areas of the city today. From the touristy pier blanketed in Beatles memorabilia, to the street art of the Ropewalks – Liverpool is a tale of two cities.  You need to explore both sides to really get the flavors.

Here were some of my favorite experiences.

The Magical Mystery Tour

Of course I have to start with John, Paul, George and Ringo. Born during World War II, they came into the world at one of the least desirable times when food rations were commonplace and constant fear prevailed among adults.  They crossed paths as teens and ultimately formed what became one of the most iconic bands in pop culture history.

Today their story is told through a Magical Mystery Tour aboard a psychedelic bus. I’m a bit cynical about tourist bus tours, but I happily climbed aboard humming a Beatles tune in my head.  I must admit it was fun having my picture taken in front of the Penny Lane sign, seeing the shelter in the middle of the roundabout, the barber shop, and the fire station.  We even saw the grave where Eleanor Rigby was buried with her name – although the Beatles claim that was not the inspiration for the lyrics (seems unlikely to me).  And, of course, Strawberry Fields was one of the most popular stops. In between stops for photos, the tour guide shared anecdotes of the lives of the fab five from the days when they roamed the streets of Liverpool.

 The Next Best Thing to a Beatles Concert

At the height of the Beatles popularity in the mid-60s, I was a just a child and never saw the band in concert. But in Liverpool, I saw the next best thing – a Beatles tribute band performing at the legendary Cavern Club.  People ranging in age from 20 to 75 all sang along as the fab four impersonators served up a mega dose of nostalgia.  The songs continued for me all through the night – probably because I slept at the Hard Days Night hotel.

Exploring with Secret Tours of Liverpool

Seecret Tours of Liverpool leads walking tours to discover the city’s street art, hidden attractions and alternative sights.   We met up with our energetic and incredibly knowledgeable guide, Niko, and ventured out.  The route started with a walk through Liverpool One – the city’s shiny new cosmopolitan shopping center.  This set the stage for the contrasting side of the city we were about to discover.

Niko showed us the “Sailors Gate” originally constructed in the late 19^th century in an effort to trick drunken sailors into entering the Sailor’s Home in time for their 10:00pm curfew.  (Some things never change!)

From there we left the shiny new Liverpool behind to step into history at Bluecoat Chambers. Built in the 1700s, the Bluecoat is the oldest building in Liverpool’s city center. Today it houses a creative community of artists showcasing visual art, music, dance, live art and literature.  The secret garden behind the building is home to independent businesses ideal for finding the perfect non-touristy souvenir.  Niko also pointed out the Liver Bird – the city’s symbol.  This mythical bird carved above the doors and iron gates of Bluecoat carries seaweed in its beak and has origins dating back to medieval times.

The real story of Liverpool comes to life in the Ropewalks.   Named for the craft of rope-making for ships that dominated the maritime city until the 19^th century, Ropewalks is characterized by long parallel streets built to allow rope manufacturers to lay the ropes out lengthways.  Remnants of bombed buildings from World War II still stand as a poignant reminder of the city’s difficult past.  Numerous warehouses now converted to bars and clubs have become the center of nightlife for Liverpool.   In fact, the recent Rough Guides “50 Things to Do before You Die” ranked a night out in Liverpool’s Ropewalks quarter as #3 – just above the Great Wall of China.

What was most impressive about this quarter of Liverpool was the street art. Thought provoking graffiti masterpieces by Brazil artist, Cranio, color the walls of businesses.  Another amazing piece depicting the message “Breathing is Not Living” covers the side of Liverpool’s first dry bar, The Brink.  Opened by a recovered alcoholic to provide an alternative spot for those who prefer not to imbibe in spirits, The Brink is a recovery social enterprise with all profits going back into the community to fund support for those who have suffered through alcoholism and addiction. And if you want to try your hand at street art, there’s an alley for that too.

And You Have to Try the Scouse

And, finally, no visit to Liverpool is complete without a stop at Maggie May’s on Bold Street for homemade Scouse – a beef or lamb based stew with carrots, onions and potatoes served with crusty bread. Scouse is also the nickname for the people of Liverpool who really do have their own version of the English language. Niko assured us that Liverpoolians do eat Scouse.  In fact, he has a bowl every Sunday afternoon when he stops by his Grandma’s house who, of course, lives on Penny Lane.

www.visitliverpool.com