Los Angeles

LA Local: A Tale of Six Neighborhoods

Sunset Boulevard, Rodeo Drive, the Hollywood Hills—it’s all quite glamorous.  It’s also your typical LA story. As a new resident of Southern California, I owed it to myself to dig a bit deeper. What I discovered is that the real stars of Los Angeles are the many vibrant neighborhoods it boasts beyond Tinseltown.

For a more local view, get to know the tucked away cafes, culinary treasures, boutique shops and outdoor hangouts that fuel everyday life. The sprawling city is best navigated from behind the wheel of a car (avoiding rush hour at all costs, of course). If your budget is more daily metro pass than pricey rental car, however, it can still be done.  Nearly 200 bus and railroad lines operate throughout the city from 4am until after midnight.

The second largest US city has too many distinct areas to mention, but below are six places to start exploring for a different outlook on La La Land.  From expansive beaches and eclectic arts districts in the West to a burgeoning downtown in the East, there’s much to be discovered.

Old is New Again

The buzz surrounding Culver City is about how it’s gone from an industrial filmmaking location to an arts and entertainment destination.  Technically its own city located on LA’s central west side, the area is home to Sony Pictures Studios, Culver Studios and the Kirk Douglas Theatre—but  its discreet film industry presence allows downtown eateries, sidewalk cafes and wine bars to shine.

A large part of Culver City’s appeal is the ease with which one can enjoy it. A covered parking lot on Cardiff Street costs only $1 an hour and puts you within walking distance of Culver Boulevard hotspots like Ugo Italian Bar, which is a restaurant, bar and gelateria. Sit outside here and make a meal out of appetizers like fried zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese. Connected to the building are Ugo’s café and its self-serve wine bar, where you put money on a debit-like card and help yourself to one-ounce pours straight from the tap. Next door, the restaurant Akasha boasts a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and an inventive organic menu that draws a consistent crowd.

At the intersection of Culver and Washington Boulevards sits the historic Culver Hotel, marked by high ceilings, crystal chandeliers and antique furnishings. I’d imagined a room at this elegant landmark came at a price, but learned that rates start at a bargain $139 per night (insider tip: if you book your room at the hotel after midnight, prices drop to a mere $99).

Culver City has also made a name for itself as an arts community, as evidenced by places like Royal/T on Washington Blvd.  This colorful venue—equal parts gallery, Japanese-inspired tea room, café and gift shop—was formed to showcase new local artists and designers. Don’t the miss the floor-to-ceiling murals en route to the restroom and the occasional father-daughter tea party.

Shore Things

People-watching at Venice’s famous Muscle Beach, farther west of Culver City, is certainly entertaining, but many residents prefer the south side of Venice for a more low-key day by the beach.

Start on Abbot Kinney Boulevard and go treasure-hunting for one-of-a-kind clothing, artwork and home furnishings. The Tortoise General Store offers a unique collection of Japanese home accessories, tea pots and cookware– peppered with odd pieces like a wallet made entirely of duct tape. A girl could spend a considerable amount of time building her wish list in Tony’s, a vintage store carrying old records, jewelry, wooden chests, clothing and more (it has no sign on it, but just look for a bright green building).  The Boulevard has its fair share of organic and Vegan restaurants, but this carnivore prefers the steak and grilled chicken at the upscale Hal’s Bar and Grille, which features live jazz music on Sunday nights.

Head toward the ocean and don’t miss some of the dozens of canals that give Venice Beach its name.  Eat and drink at the casual Venice Whaler Bar and Grille (known simply as “The Whaler”), which fronts the beach in Washington Square. You can pull up a stool at the wood counter downstairs facing the water, or head to the upstairs outside patio for a less impeded view of the sunset.

Santa Monica, Venice’s neighbor to the north, is known widely for its Third-Street Promenade, but plugged-in locals prefer Main Street. Here, you’ll find no shortage of coffee shops and cafes like Urth Caffé, which touts a hidden back garden for peaceful retreats and its own impressive collection of organic coffees and teas.  Main Street is also the setting of the Farmer’s Market, which sets up on Sundays in a parking lot in Heritage Square. Besides your typical produce and farm vendors, the market often features bands and an enclosed petting zoo for kids.

At the beach, just a few blocks away, you can walk or bike the path that runs along Santa Monica State Beach and continues north toward Malibu. Or, hang out by the dual pools at the nearby Viceroy Hotel.  Don’t let its nondescript outside fool you – inside you will find a retro glam décor and an inviting lobby lounge. Among my favorite design elements is an outdoor wall adorned with plates, hung over a seating area with overstuffed chairs.

West Side Glory

Next stop: West Hollywood, a short drive east and home to Melrose Avenue, Boys Town and the famous Sunset Strip. None of those places, however, were on my agenda. Instead, I had a beer at the original Barney’s Beanery on Santa Monica Boulevard, a watering hole that dates back to 1920 and was frequented by film and music legends like Lou Costello, Jim Morrison and Janis Joplin. Those names lure tourists, but a daily three-hour Happy Hour, extensive beer list and menu, and dozens of TVs keep locals returning. Barney’s is an ode to pop culture, with pool tables, a game room, a jukebox and Harley-Davidsons sitting atop colorful diner booths. The bar has four other LA locations.

For a different vibe, check out the adjacent Palihouse Holloway hotel. The fashionable lobby lounge is a popular spot for post-work or pre-evening cocktails, outfitted with comfortable leather couches and dark wooden furniture. I admired details like the painted tile floor and hanging plants. Upstairs, Palihouse’s indulgent residential -style lofts and suites are designed to make guests feel at home (think urban apartment rather than standard hotel room), some even including exposed-brick walls.

When hunger strikes, West Hollywood doesn’t disappoint. LA residents take their tacos seriously, and Marix on N. Flores Street is one place where they get down to business. “Taco Tuesdays” are pretty standard throughout Southern California, and here you get all the beef, chicken or pork tacos you can handle for $7.95 (the first round of three is filling enough, but I’m told the record-holder –a  petite woman – once managed to eat 11). During happy hour you can wash that down with a pint-sized margarita for $4. Of course, you can always opt for a healthy, tasty salad at Basix next door, and splurge on their well-made Mojito.

West Hollywood’s West 3rd Street district (between Fairfax and La Cienega) is a stretch of restaurants, specialty boutiques, bars and bakeries that offers an alternative to the upscale Robertson Boulevard.  One standout is Joan’s on Third, which boasts a charcuterie, cheese counter, gourmet deli and bakery. When eating in, you order, take a number and seat yourself – a process that can sometimes be daunting. I was happy to take my red-velvet cupcake and run, but will be back to sample the short rib sandwich that once graced the cover of Bon Appétit.

For equally tempting baked goods on West 3rd, Kiss My Bundt has adorable mini Bundt cakes and Little Next Door has a dessert case of pastries almost too beautiful to eat. Little Next Door, with its welcoming covered patio, is a Parisian-style restaurant, gourmet market and wine store all in one. I’ll leave you with three words: French onion soup.

What’s Up Downtown

Among the latest news in Downtown LA is the development of LA Live, a mixed-use entertainment complex adjacent to the Staples Center sports arena. It comprises apartments, bars, concert theaters, restaurants, movie theaters and two connected luxury hotels – a Ritz-Carlton and a JW Marriott. It’s also home to the four-floor Grammy Museum, dedicated to the history of the music awards ceremony.

Residents and commuters, however, seek out local spots that have been cropping up in the blocks between LA Live and the famous circular US Bank building as part of an effort to keep people downtown.  Among them is the one-year-old Bottle Rock wine bar, sister to the original Bottle Rock in Culver City, and Bottega Louie. Bottle Rock’s dimly lit space comprises small tables for enjoying wine and small plates, plus walls of wine for sale (they claim to have nearly 1,000 selections).  And diners from the city’s west side make the trip to Bottega Louie, which opened in spring 2009 on South Grand Avenue, for its appealing Italian menu and attractive prices.

Of course, downtown has its share of “oldies but goodies” like The Standard, whose claim to fame has become its roofdeck pool and bar.  It’s a great place to spend a sultry summer night listening to the DJ du jour or lounging on a comfy couch with a cocktail, all while soaking in the views of skyscrapers from 12 floors up (insider tip: call before you go, as this is (understandably) a popular venue for private parties). Meanwhile, the swanky Edison  on 2^nd Street,  housed in an old powerplant, has a dark industrial feel and transports you back to the 1920s. There are silent movies playing on the walls, occasional burlesque dancers and women handing out absinthe—all of which makes for an enjoyable way to celebrate Los Angeles’ rich history.