Maine is such an idyllic spot that visitors seem to get nostalgic for it even if they haven’t visited it yet. Indeed, as you cross the Piscataqua River marking the border between New Hampshire and Maine, you’ll pass a sign alongside the highway that reads “Welcome to Maine: The Way Life Should Be.” What is it about this picturesque state that merits such lofty devotion?
To start, Maine is uniquely beautiful. Pounded by a merciless Atlantic Ocean, Maine’s coastline is all craggy rock and sharp edges, quite unlike the sugary sands of Cape Cod or Florida. It also has the first National Park east of the Mississippi River (Acadia National Park), wide swaths of untouched forests, a lake region, mountain ranges, incredible fall foliage, and a tasty relationship to seafood. But there’s something else about this northerly state’s charisma that’s difficult to pinpoint. It may be the large amount of space that’s doled out to every individual. Or that folks there wave and say hello to strangers. Or the fact that residents hold parades for simple comforts like blueberries and lobster. Whatever the reason, Maine is certainly worth a visit. And it may even teach you a bit about the way life should be.
Maine is a huge state, and off the major highways the roads can be quite confusing: it’s a good idea to pick up DeLorme’s Maine Atlas & Gazetteer before setting out.
The Kennebunks
The Kennebunks often get a bad rap, probably because the region’s best known town is moneyed Kennebunkport. Although “the Port” (summer home to former Presidents George H.W. Bush and George “W” Bush) can feel snooty at times, it is also incredibly scenic and boasts beautiful beaches and a number of good eats.
Start your beach bum afternoon with a grilled chicken sandwich from Bennett’s, 200 Sea Rd (Rte-9) in Kennebunk (207/967-5401). Take it to go with a house-made cola, and head straight to Goose Rocks Beach, about three miles north of the Port on King’s Hwy (off Dyke Road via Rte-9; parking permits $15 daily, $25 weekly; call the Kennebunkport police for info 207/967-2454). Away from downtown proper both in mileage and in spirit, Goose Rocks is a gorgeous, expansive stretch of sand, and you will want to take your time here. After soaking up the sun, head to The Ramp, 77 Pier Rd (207/967-8500) to soak up martinis and a lively, local atmosphere. Back in Kennebunkport, Bandaloop, 2 Dock Square (207/967-4994) has a funky, contemporary feel and pairs seasonal entrées with a range of tasty sauces. If you prefer a casual seafood meal, order clam rolls and whoopee pies (two chocolate cakes that sandwich together a healthy dose of vanilla frosting) from the unassuming Clam Shack, 2 Western Ave, at the Kennebunkport Bridge (207/967-3321). Duck into the adjacent dock for a scenic water view as you eat.
Portland and Freeport
Though not Maine’s official capital (that’s Augusta) Portland is in many ways Maine’s cultural center. Here you will find a great museum of art (the Farnsworth, further north in Rockland, is also worth a mention), brick antiquarian shops, fun tours, and lots of action along the waterfront.
Well-situated beside the waters of Casco Bay (indeed, many residents commute to town from one of the innumerable Calendar Islands) a good way to experience Portland is by aquatic exploration. The Portland Schooner Co. has two antique schooners that sail around the harbor, offering glimpses of lighthouses and the Casco Bay islands (2hr trip $35, overnight trips $240; 207/766-2500;www.portlandschooner.com). If you want to experience a very cool commuter route, Casco Bay Lines runs a scenic mailboat trip to seven of the Calendar Islands (one-way direct trip $7.75–11.50, scenic cruises $12-22.50; 207/774-7871; www.cascobaylines.com).
Eating is another Portland pastime – it’s a town of foodies – and good restaurants abound. For the quintessential Maine experience, however, drive out to the Lobster Shack at Two Lights in Cape Elizabeth (207/799-1677; www.lobstershacktwolights.com). Here, some of the best lobster rolls in the state are consumed beside an unruly ocean and an oft-photographed lighthouse.
If in Portland, it’s worth a visit to Freeport, home to L.L. Bean, a 24-hr outdoor expedition store that’s been a local landmark since 1912. Freeport is also known for its outlet stores (such as the Gap, Banana Republic, and Cole Haan). If shopping is your thing, great bargains abound here.
Where to Stay:
Claremont Hotel – Entering this vintage hotel, just outside of Acadia National Park, will have you thinking you’ve stumbled into a marvelous time warp. Expect fires in the fireplaces, tennis courts, fine dining accompanied by live piano playing, plenty of lounge-worthy Adirondack chairs on the porch, and croquet with water views. 22 Claremont Rd, off Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor, 207/244-5036, www.theclaremonthotel.com
Blair Hill Inn – Just around the bend from mesmerizing Moosehead Lake, this gorgeous bed and breakfast has bright and luxurious rooms, a summer concert series, and jaw-dropping views from its front porch. 351 Lily Bay Rd, Greenville, 207/695-0224, www.blairhill.com
Pres du Port B&B – Sited in the artsy, seafaring town of Stonington, this bed and breakfast is all whimsical wallpaper and vibrant color schemes. There’s a rooftop deck from which you can see way out into the harbor, a wonderful innkeeper, and fresh blueberries in the morning. W Main St at Highland Ave, Stonington, 207/367-5007. www.presduport.com
Where to Eat:
Moody’s Diner – Maine is known for its diners, and Moody’s is one of the best. Open for more than 80 years, they serve casual meals and more than fourteen types of homemade pies. The four-berry is the stuff that dreams are made of. Rte-1, Waldoboro, 207/832-7785,www.moodysdiner.com
Frontier Café – A meandering mill space has been converted into a tasty café, complete with a movie theater and views of the Androscoggin. Good beer and free WiFi available. 14 Maine Street (in the Fort Andross Mill), Brunswick, 207/725-5222, www.explorefrontier.com
Lobster Shack at Two Lights – at the Two Lights Lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth, five miles south of Portland (207/799-1677). See above for full review.
Street and Co. – In a town where restaurant competition is fierce, Street and Co. still manages to stand out. Intimate, upscale, and loud, their open kitchen serves some of the best fish fare in the state. 33 Wharf St, Portland (207/775-0887).
Brass Compass Café – It’s hard to imagine a better day than a morning spent with French toast at the Brass Compass and an afternoon with Wyeth paintings at the Farnsworth Art Museum. A great local hangout for breakfast and lunch. 305 Main Street, Rockland (207/596-5960).
Must See:
Acadia National Park. Yes, it gets unbelievably crowded in the summer months, and you may be nature-communing with a crowd. But if you can get out on the trails, or traipse out on the cliffs, you’ll be reminded why Maine is considered one of the most beautiful places on earth. www.nps.gov/acad/