Over 2200 islands off the coast of Maine beg exploration. They offer quaint sailing villages, private homesteads, seals, dolphins, and other wildlife, as well as beaches perfect for a lobster boil. Whether you board the Stephen Taber (celebrating 150 years) or its sister ship, the LaDona (a 1922 racing yacht), or one of seven other vessels reservable through the Maine Windjammer Association, now is the time to sail and let the wind clear out your mental cobwebs and embrace a fresh new perspective on life.
Sailing the Open Seas is Refreshing
After a year of being pent up, there is nothing better than sailing on the open seas. Imagine the warmth of the sun kissing your face and the saltwater breezes blowing against your skin. Absorb the freedom that comes with wide-open spaces. You’ll get the feeling it’s “heaven on earth” as you sail along the coast of Maine on a windjammer schooner. There are no deadlines or expectations or itinerary since the Stephen Taber goes where the wind blows.
Sailing the Way, it was Meant to be – 150 Years Ago
This is not just any windjammer. The Stephen Taber is the oldest continually used commercial schooner in the world. Sail with Captain Noah Barnes and his crew on its historic 150th year. Yes, this schooner has been sailing for 150 years and it really is sailing. A beauty to behold, the crew spent months refreshing every surface of the all-wooden vessel. Without a motor the crew (and passengers) manually hoist the anchor and raise the sails. Sailing was always meant to be like this, and it is a rare treat for anyone wanting to experience “the real thing.”
But don’t worry! They tie up a yawl named Babe in case the wind isn’t blowing, or a slight adjustment is needed to find the desired winds. And the use of the yawl prevents getting wet on shore excursions too.
Feeling Part of The Family
The Stephen Taber has been owned and operated by the Barnes Family for the last 42 years. As you sail with Captain Noah (the son) and hear the stories from family members and returning passengers, you feel the power of family pride and love of the sea. Noah’s parents – Captains Ken and Ellen Barnes – were described as “legends” in Frank Chillemi’s book “Windjammers, Lighthouses and Other Treasures of the Maine Coast.” Sailing is in their blood.
Did Noah aspire to take over the helm? Originally, no, as he set out on his own business career. But later he decided to return when his parents wanted to retire. Noah and his wife Jane (who handles bookings) have doubled the size of the business with their purchase of the LaDona, making them a two-schooner family.
And now, a third generation is son Oscar, who sails each summer. At age 12, he mans the yawl when needed, teaches sailing to passengers, and follows the captain’s orders just like any other crewmember. When asked if he would one day take the helm, Oscar replied quite emphatically “No, he didn’t want to follow in his father’s footsteps; it was too much work.” Instead, he wants to be a marine biologist.” Well … we will see!
Meet the Rest of the Crew
The rest of the 2021 crew is First Mate Karina, Deck Hand Marshall, Chef Randy, Sous-Chef Erica and Oscar with Captain Noah. I was impressed with Karina as she took the helm, rigorously hoisted the sails, climbed the rigging when the sails got stuck, leaped from her cabin with a flashlight one evening when she heard a strange sound (it was nothing), and even tucked me in under a heavy comforter when I dozed on deck. Marshall jumps in on anything that Karina doesn’t do, including the sails, raising the anchor, and swabbing the deck. The always pleasant Erica helps in the galley food prepping and it is amazing how she finds where everything has been stowed in 30+ cupboards and cubbyholes. It was an honor to sail with every one of these crewmembers.
Fabulous Food from a Wood Burning Stove
The galley is a mere thirty-six square feet, smaller than most bathrooms. Yet in this small space Chef Randy and Sous-Chef Erica feed 26 people three meals a day. Chef Randy is up at 4:30 am to light the wood stove, and it burns all day. Over 4 days, we greedily awaited his mouth-watering meals of robust soups and stews, fresh seafood, grilled steak, chicken kabobs and an assortment of vegetables. Evening meals were also paired with an ever-changing selection of wines and there was even chocolate mousse for dessert.
Chef Randy had an accomplished career as a private chef in New York but seems to have adapted to life at sea. Sitting in the narrow galley watching this pair prepare a meal is as entertaining as any food network show.
Entertainment by Lantern Light
At dusk, the anchor is dropped in a peaceful cove among the islands and after a gourmet meal, we all gather on deck for a sing along with the Captain. He takes requests but also has a few favorites up his sleeve; classic rock, bluegrass, and country. Oscar joined in on his ukulele and he even played keyboard one night. Talent runs deep in the Barnes family!
One night a returning passenger, Michael Kingon, who happens to be a sailing cousin, joined in. Michael is the rehearsal pianist for the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York. A keyboard was laid across the arms of a deck chair next to the lantern light and he pulled up a stool and began playing like a professional. We were blown away by his skills – especially in this kind of environment.
Others gathered in the galley after dinner to play cards or chess. Four-person chess was taken up one night by 3 passengers and Oscar. The men thought they would go easy on him but at first play, Oscar asked if they had seen Netflix show, The Queen’s Gambit. That should have been a clue that he was an experienced player. It was fascinating to watch Oscar beat the two of them, then gracefully accept the offer of a draw by the last gentleman. Names have been withheld… but they were all good sports. Well done, Oscar!
On Land in Rockland and Camden
Before departing on the schooner or after your return voyage, make sure to spend time exploring the sister villages. Just eleven coastal miles apart, the Maine Windjammer fleet departs from both ports. Explore their main streets for museums, restaurants, pubs, local arts, and souvenirs. You will also find “new” clothes if you forgot to pack something.
Take an afternoon cruise out of Camden to see lighthouses and a lobster catch. Feed your appetite with “all you can eat seafood” at the Rockland Café or “have the best lobster roll ever” and truffle fries at Claws! Stop by local wineries and distilleries then return home to the new boutique 250 Main Hotel where they welcome you each night with a complimentary drink and the best view of the harbor from their rooftop.
And the Sunsets were Spectacular
No sailing trip is complete without taking time to enjoy the endless sunrises and sunsets. A favorite was taken on Memorial Day with a hidden peaceful message. Please join this wonderful crew and sail away like our ancestors did 150 years ago. It is a once-in-a-lifetime experience… and often repeated by returning passengers.
How to Arrange Your Cruise:
Where do you sign up? Check out Maine Windjammer Sailing Cruises: All-Inclusive Sailing Vacations: MWA (sailmainecoast.com) to view all nine vessels and trips that range from 4 to 7 nights. Sailings have themes so look for culinary delights, historical sailings, wine tastings, festivals or fall colors. Discounts are sometimes offered for early bookings.
The Stephen Taber has a website at Schooner Stephen Taber where additional information is available regarding cabins, activities, and specific sailing dates.
Where to Stay:
The welcoming 250 Main Hotel with just 26 rooms offers all the comforts of home. The open lobby provides room to gather for their complimentary drink each night. Just around the corner find your complimentary breakfast and personal touches like refillable bottles of water and library books if you have insomnia. Maine Boutique Hotel | 250 Main Hotel | Rockland Maine Hotels.