“Are you boys going to watch some football today?”, our hostess coyly asks as she seats us. We’re still a little groggy from the short flight to Manchester from Philadelphia and coffee more than football is what’s on our minds. In the ensuing days in this compact metropolis, however, we’ll be singing a different tune about football’s impact here. For now, though, we’re happy to swiftly receive 2 pots of French press and get a nice hot breakfast at the Radisson Blu Edwardian’s Steak & Lobster Restaurant.
Our arrival was timed with a little downpour, this being England after all. But the cheery I LOVE MCR sign (like I ”HEART” NY) as we exited the terminal was perhaps a hint of what we’d discover in the next 72 hours. Manchester is nothing short of charming and by the looks of the masses visiting the city pre-New Year’s Eve, the secret’s out. As part of the UK’s “Northern Powerhouse” agenda, a plan to boost economic growth in the North of England, Manchester, by the looks of it, has already scored a goal and is on the way to another. Along with 5 core cities in the north including Liverpool, it has been recast for the 21st century as the original modern city. It’s a city with a slightly radical past where creativity and expression are praised. A couple days later as we make our way around The Quays, a sprawling waterfront regeneration development containing Media City UK, The Lowry Arts Centre and the Imperial War Museum, designed by starchitect Daniel Libeskind, we marvel at the investment made in the evolution of the former port.
Manchester is far and away a walking city and we swiftly get our feet wet (literally) in front of the massive Central Library when we meet our guide Denise from Discover Manchester Walking Tours. She spends some time at the get go briefing us on where this city has been and what it stands for mentioning the well-known music connection and the symbol of the Worker Bee, seen all over the city, and an icon of the work ethic embedded in the culture. Then she delves into, what else? The current football standings. After we learn that Manchester United is neck and neck with Manchester City, a big surprise to her, we’re off to view the sites and neighborhoods. Along the way she continues to weave in as much of that musical heritage as possible even though today Manchester is a complex hub of culture that goes beyond music. Home to the Bee Gees, the Sex Pistols, Oasis and the Smiths, Manchester ran neck in neck with sister city, Liverpool, as a stomping ground for modern sounds. Score 1 for Liverpool though for spawning The Beatles but many today are more familiar with Manchester’s musical DNA than anything else. Well, except soccer of course.
Turning down a narrow pedestrianized walkway, we’re half wondering where Denise is leading us when the street abruptly opens out into Lincoln Square. Here a statue of Abraham Lincoln is standing on a plinth high above our heads. It’s a curious sight right in the middle of the city center and Denise explains that it was a gift from the US in the early 1900’s to celebrate Anglo-American unity. The head and hands are inordinately large and the placement of Mr. Lincoln’s folded hands over his stomach earned it the moniker “the stomach ache statue”. The “why” of what it’s doing here is a bit convoluted but essentially it ties back to the cotton trade with the South. Manchester experienced a boom in textile manufacturing in the late 18th century becoming the world’s first industrialized city and making it wealthy. The working class roots go deep and when you get to chat up a local you quickly realize that any pretension is dismantled. Everyone here is so down to earth.
At the bottom of the street we wind up at Spinningfield’s, a shiny new retail and residential development with a sordid past. In the mid-1800’s thousands of Manchurians endured crushing poverty in this former tenement slum, toiling away in the textile mills and sweat shops making Manchester the workhorse of Britain’s Industrial Revolution. But all vestiges of that past are long gone today. A sizeable Emporio Armani stares us straight in the face, within shooting distance of another one of the stockpile of 19th and 20th century buildings dominating the city center, many built in the traditional red brick. This one is the venerable John Rylands Library, an impressive neo-Gothic structure from 1900. When we get a glimpse of the imposing interior we understand not only the architectural significance of the building but the intellectual purpose of its founder, Enriqueta Rylands. SPOILER ALERT: As of late 2017 Manchester won its bid to join UNESCO’S Creative Cities network as a city of Literature. The city built the UK’s first public library and along with Chetham Library, the oldest free public library in the world dating from 1653, and the world class aforementioned Central, these three historic gems attest to a literary heritage not typically found in working class cities.
We duck into The Old Wellington Inn after the tour for a brew and a bite, out of the rain and happily ensconced next to the second floor radiator. Denise had pointed out the half-timbered pub dating back to 1552 during the tour, as we wound our way past Shambles Square toward Manchester Cathedral. It’s a wet Saturday afternoon and the door opens on a bustling crowd of locals, both downstairs and up, eager to sneak a tipple or two into their day and watch some football. The quintessential pub experience is something most Americans crave when they visit the UK and you’ll get it here. When we score a table right away we figure we’ve made the right choice. Meat pies are the mainstay on the menu from the usual Shepherd’s to a Chicken, Butterbean and Bacon Pie. What would that taste like I wondered, settling on the Beef, Ale and Mushroom Pie. Guess what? I made the right choice.
After lunch we head to the Northern Quarter, Manchester’s Boho hipster quarter. Manchester is a city of neighborhoods, some newly gentrified, and they’re aching to be explored. This one is full of cafés, bars, restaurants, boutiques and … Affleck’s. Affleck’s almost deserves a story unto itself so Instagram worthy it is. A four story Aladdin’s cave of unique shops, you could spend hours getting lost in the labyrinth of treasures especially if vintage is your game. We search for that perfect New Year’s Eve accessory (pink boa, perhaps?) then opt for a nap back at the hotel to gear up for Saturday night in our new adoptive city.
Amidst the towering skyscrapers of Spinningfields, The Oast House is a curious site. Several large teepees adorned in lights in the makeshift garden signal that we’re not in Kansas anymore. We peer into one of them and realize these are detached semi-private bars. Pretty cool! Inside the crowded gastropub is teeming with workers from all walks of life indulging in grilled kebabs while enjoying the live music; a typical Saturday night hot spot. After a Fondue starter followed by a Jerk Salmon, we contemplate the loud revelers and decide to move on to check out the burgeoning up and coming cocktail scene. We start to leave the Teepee installation behind after numerous photos then peer into one more. One of the staff spots us, recognizing that we’re tourists, and asks us where we’re headed. Where is The Alchemist, we ask, referring to a “molecular” cocktail bar we’ve heard a lot about. Not even giving a second thought to the damp, chill outside, he escorts us without a coat a full block away to the venue. Only really getting a fraction of his banter along the way because of his heavy accent, we try to register that we just had a private escort by a stranger.
As we settle into our round of infamous drinks, we’re psyched for tomorrow night (New Year’s Eve) and the day after. For Manchester has already surprised us with its cool vibe and who knows, perhaps after another couple days we’ll master getting used to the accent and see some good football!
*From the Editors: Manchester is a perfect jumping off point for day trips to both Liverpool (45 minutes by train) and even London (just over 2 hours).
The country code for UK is 44 and the city code for Manchester is 161.
Where to Stay:
The Radisson Blu Edwardian – Set within the hallowed walls of Manchester Free Trade Hall, this is the premiere hotel experience in town and Radisson has spared no expense to deliver the goods. (see accompanying story). Free Trade Hall, Peter St., Manchester, 44 161 835 9929; www.radissonblu-edwardian.com/manchester
The Principal – After a $30 million refurbishment, this is becoming one of the most talked about hotels in the North of England. Purported to be haunted, the 271 loft-style rooms and suites bring “Manhattan to Manchester” in a grande dame of a landmark space with a clock tower at the summit. Oxford St., Manchester, 44 161 288 1111; www.phcompany.com/principal/manchester-hotel/
The Lowry Hotel – Manchester’s first 5 star hotel, the Lowry features spacious modern guest rooms complemented by modern artworks and Italian marble baths. 50 Dearman’s Place, Chapel Wharf, Manchester, 44 161 827 4000; www.thelowryhotel.com
Where to Eat & Drink:
Cottonopolis – Order a couple Milk & 2 Sugars cocktails, sit back and enjoy the cool Northern Quarter vibe here. The moody loft-style interiors, inventive cocktail menu and adventurous sushi and maki rolls are a winning combination. 16 Newton St., Northern Quarter Manchester, 44 161 236 5144; www.cottonopolis-nq.com
The Refuge by Volta – Prepare to have your socks knocked off visually, Refuge must be the most beautiful venue in town. The Dining Room is adjoined by the Public Bar and the Winter Garden all looking like something out of a Noel Coward play. Feast on an assortment of international small plates washed down with sublime drinks. Oxford St. (in the Principal Hotel), Manchester, 44 161 233 5151; www.refugemcr.co.uk
Photo: Visit ManchesterBay Horse Tavern – Don’t be fooled by the simple bar & lounge interior, this modern take on a Victorian pub serves first rate cocktails and an assortment of well-prepared British standards. Be sure to check out their Hummel collection which includes a rare set of the Beatles. 35 Thomas St., Northern Quarter Manchester, 44 161 669 5799; www.bayhorsetavern.co.uk
The Oast House – Savor the amazing energy of Manchester’s pub scene sipping local craft beers and nibbling on juicy kebabs. Live music nightly but either way just sing along to cover songs by the excellent local talent. Chill out in one of the heated teepees outside afterward. The Avenue Courtyard, Spinningfields, Manchester, 44 161 829 3830; www.theoasthouse.uk.com
Ed. Note: Closed January 1, 2018 for refurbishment with a planned re-opening date of March 29 for a special Spin Festival weekend (http://theoasthouse.uk.com/spinfest)
The Old Wellington – Savor a taste of old world Great Britain with classic meat pies & pints. 4 Cathedral Gates, Manchester, 44 161 839 5179; www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk
The Whitworth Café – Take time for a Zen-like lunch or snack within this glass cube adjoining the Whitworth Gallery with 360 views of the surrounding parkland. Oxford Rd., Manchester, 44 161 275 7450; www.whitworth.manchester.ac.uk/visit/foodanddrink/
The Alchemist – Relax and unwind with a Bubble Bath, but not in a tub, ok? This super trendy molecular mixology bar’s menu spans an enormous gamut of concoctions. This one’s made with Tanqueray Gin, Aperol, Chambord and Lemon Apple Fairy Liquid (no kidding). 3 Hardman St., Spinningfields, Manchester, 44 161 817 2950, www.thealchemist.uk.com
Bubble Bath Cocktail from Jeff Greif on Vimeo.
Cloud 23 – Perched at the top of the city’s tallest building, enjoy innovative cocktails with your view of Manchester. Beetham Tower, 303 Deansgate, Manchester; www.cloud23bar.com
What to See & Do:
Take a Walking Tour – This is a walking city so pack your sneakers, and rely on Discover Manchester to give you the goods. Tours depart every day at 11 am from in front of the Central Library and run approximately 2 hours. www.manchesterguidedtours.com
Photo: Visit ManchesterLincoln Square – Take a peek at Abraham Lincoln presiding over the city and the pigeons in the square, and looking as if he’s a wealthy benefactor. Brazennoze St. between Albert Square and Deansgate.
The John Rylands Library – Awe-inspiring is all I can say. Be sure to get a look at the Martin Luther letters. 150 Deansgate, Spinningfields, Manchester, 44 161 306 0555; www.library.manchester.ac.uk
The Whitworth Art Gallery – Put this on the top of your list. Celebrating its 110th anniversary in 2018, the Whitworth is more than a gallery in the middle of a city park. It’s an insightfully curated showplace of art, design and crafts. You’ll want to spend some time in the gift shop. Oxford Rd., Manchester, 44 161 275 7450; www.whitworth.manchester.ac.uk
Imperial War Museum North – This glistening hulk at The Quays located a 20 minute Metrolink tram from St. Peter’s Square consists of three aluminum clad sections. Huge angled walls inside are used for showing interactive maps and films about every war known to man. A separate gallery showcases memorable temporary exhibits. The Quays, Trafford Wharf Road, Manchester, 44 161 836 4000; www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-north
Shop Affleck’s – Your trip to Manchester is incomplete until you have explored this 4 floor emporium of eclecticism featuring everything from jewelry and clothing to craft and kitsch. It’s practically a shrine to vintage. 52 Church St., Northern Quarter, Manchester, 44 161 839 0718; www.afflecks.com