Mandarin Grill + Bar, Hong Kong

Set in Hong Kong’s historic Mandarin Oriental Hotel, which recently celebrated its 50^th anniversary, the Mandarin Grill + Bar had previously resembled a private club which made it a perfect setting for big business deals over lunch. Fitted out with leather and dark woods, a leftover from the power 80’s, it was primed for a new look. And it got one.

A recent facelift has transformed the space to bright and airy, almost a complete 360 degree shift, but despite the updating not much else has changed.  Patrons dressed in sharp Armani suits prowl the room, while visitors to the city relax in the Zen atmosphere enjoying the creative European fare.

The new space, designed by Sir Terrance Conran, is sleek, chic and sophisticated with light neutral tones and well-spaced tables, window banquettes cleverly made more private with stand-alone wood and glass partitions. Diners can choose between either a Hong Kong skyline view or the glass-fronted open kitchen where they can watch the chefs at play.

With the arrival of Uwe Opocensky as Executive Chef in 2007, the food here began taking center stage. Chef Opocensky, an El Bulli alumnus working under Ferran Adria for nearly a year, primarily works his own magic in The Krug Room, a private kitchen at the Mandarin Oriental. However, as executive chef at the Grill, his meticulous yet whimsical approach to food is abundantly present, creating stellar dishes and presenting them with theatrical flair. Using high quality organic ingredients and seasonal produce, classic grilled dishes are given a unique reinterpretation that hints at progressive gastronomy.

Like the décor, the restaurant’s menu is surprisingly simple but refined. Lunch is presented course by course and the headings list only the main ingredient(s) with little indication of other ingredients or preparation method. The delightful bread basket, with no less than five types of olive oil, is preceded by warm cheese puffs to whet the appetite while making your choices.

A hot plate of “Bacon & Egg” is our kick-off:  a thin slice of 18-week-old Spanish suckling pig and a fried duck egg, topped with a reduction of spinach, herbs and truffle jus, prepared tableside and presented on a bed of hay. The spinach reduction works surprisingly well, and the succulent meat and egg combo is an inventive riff on an Egg McMuffin.

Alternately, a seasonal dish that changes its name (and ingredients), appropriately titled “Winter”, is a feast for the eyes as much as for the taste buds. The dish sports a landscape ‘painting’ of vegetables on a bed of black truffles, topped with cauliflower foam and truffle shavings to depict “snow”. It’s presented on a stark black plate resembling a frame.

A highlight of the menu is the sirloin, done medium-rare, and accompanied by maitake mushroom, cep bark and potatoes and drizzled with truffle juice. The dish, while a bit more reserved in presentation compared to the startling appetizers, doesn’t compromise on excellence as the meat is tender enough to melt in the mouth, and seasoned just right.

Service at the Mandarin Grill is top notch, always remaining warm and friendly yet clearly professional in its discretion.  The white-jacketed staff explains each dish clearly and succinctly, and may often regale you with a short story or joke to go along with the innovative presentations.

As one of the finest examples of luxurious hospitality with a keen focus on European cuisine, the Mandarin Grill stands out in a very competitive haute cuisine environment. Its very high standard is singularly impressive and then some, making it a must on a Hong Kong itinerary.