Marrakesh, the ancient city in Morocco is having a renaissance. Sophisticated travelers are rediscovering the sights, sounds, and smells of this fabled city. The city is welcoming and safe and this October will see the opening of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in the famed Majorelle Gardens featuring the work of the legendary couturier.
Dreaming of the Pigeon Pie I had there on my last trip many moons ago, we packed our bags. Upon deplaning, we stepped inside the Marrakesh airport under an enormous, glass dome with a veil of stars and planets on the walls, built by Morocco’s forward thinking King Mohammed VI. An impeccably dressed driver, whose burgundy uniform matched his Jaguar sedan, whisked us to Hotel La Mamounia inside the pink walls of the medina.
La Mamounia
Pulling up to the iconic hotel, I was struck with déjà vu; I’d stayed here twenty years ago! As I walked into the lobby I realized everything was different. The Art Deco masterpiece has been transformed into a luxurious Arabian palace over the course of a spectacular three year, $160 million refurbishment by French interior design maestro Jacques Garcia. It was now a labyrinth of grandly appointed halls dominated by two enormous crystal chandeliers framing a white marble statue of a hunter slaying a panther called the Statue of the Camel. At reception, we were offered sips of coconut water and plump dates. A long list of VIPs has stayed here from Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom and Jennifer Aniston, to Sarah Jessica Parker and Elton John.
The Gardens & Rooms
The wide hallways are opulently carpeted in muted tones of yellow and red with lanterns on one side and a series of black and white photographs of old Morocco on the other. A hand-carved wooden door opened to our room, complete with dressing area and a balcony facing the hotel’s justly famous gardens; our view was of a giant blue jacaranda tree amid roses, cacti, and immaculate topiary, all punctuated with sculptures. The spectacular garden was actually there before the hotel; it was a park that King Mohammed ben Abdellah gave to his son, Prince Moulay Mamoun, as a wedding gift in the 18th century. The prince’s namesake hotel was built on the site but the gardens retained their lush splendor.
After the eleven hour flight, all we wanted was lunch and long nap in that order. The Mamounia’s buffet, served by the pool, is legendary, and there were endless choices. I had grilled sardines, escargots and the silkiest salmon I’ve ever tasted. Marrakesh has access to some of the world’s best seafood, from the port of Casablanca three hours away.
Our room, in dusty hues of green and beige with striped silk curtains, studded headboard and colorfully tiled bathroom, was a quiet oasis for our post-lunch siesta. An afternoon snooze is not only for jet-lagged travelers; half the city goes to sleep between 3 and 6 pm.
L’Italien
We awoke just in time for dinner at the hotel’s Italian restaurant, L’Italien. Seated at a table in the garden, we were transported to Rome via fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, traditional Neapolitan lasagna and simple spaghetti. Molto delizioso! Salma Hayek, Jude Law, Bruce Willis and Adrien Brody have all been spotted noshing on pasta here.
The poolside buffet is also terrific at breakfast, and the following morning we built up strength for a long day of sightseeing by indulging in the sumptuous assortment of local fruits, cheeses, juices, eggs, and fresh breads and patisserie. Seriously, you haven’t lived until you’ve sampled both of these buffets. Even if you aren’t staying at the hotel, you can buy a day pass and come to enjoy the enormous pool, the gym, the gardens, and that buffet. Marrakesh is magical, and a visit to La Mamounia is something you don’t want to miss. www.mamounia.com
The Red City
Our friend Charles Leslie, who co-founded the Leslie Lohman Museum in SoHo, has had a house in the old medina for nearly 40 years. He arrived with his driver to give us a tour of Marrakesh which is actually two cites – the medina, dating back to the 11th century, and the new city that the French built next to it when they colonized Morocco from 1912 to 1956.
We started at the ancient walls surrounding the medina, built in the 12th century and perfectly preserved. There are six miles of them, 30-feet high and dotted with aeration holes to allow them to breathe. Morocco was originally called the Red City or Rose City, and to this day there are only five shades of red, beige, and pink permitted for use on buildings. The color scheme was based on the color of the local mud and gives the city its distinctive feature.
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, a World Heritage Site
In Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, which along with the medina is UNESCO World Heritage designated, men offered to pose for photos with snakes and monkeys. The square, which acts as an open-air theater, is a 24-hour-7-day phenomenon bursting with the buzz of daily life, as is all of Marrakesh. As we made our way to the 40+ open-air restaurants that miraculously appear every night, we paused to look at the acrobats; one shot an arrow at a balloon while balancing on his partner’s feet; the snake charmers directed their flute melodies at the baskets of king cobras; dancing girls turned out to be men; this is all traditional here. The experience is unforgettable. Benches surround the square for taking in the scene, and you can munch on fresh grilled fish, meats, vegetables and French Fries that rival even the best French bistro. www.jemaa-el-fna.com
Le Marocain
In the evenings, I craved traditional dishes so one night we headed to La Mamounia’s exceptional Moroccan restaurant, Le Marocain, which is in a separate building. The restaurant is set in a garden with huge pots, flowering vines and reflecting pools, and traditional music is played by a local troop of musicians to enhance the atmosphere. I had my absolute favorite Moroccan dish, B’stilla (Pigeon Pie) served in a pastry with powdered sugar and topped with cinnamon. It is absolutely delicious. We also tried the braised lamb which fell off the bone and a lobster tagine, which was ambrosia for the gods. Sides were a selection of Moroccan salads, actually twelve different dishes, all yummy but to be completely honest, I could have done without the sheep’s brain. Bollinger is the hotel’s official Champagne and I can’t think of a better choice as it went with everything.
The Wonders of the Souk
No visit to Morocco is complete without a complete exploration of the souk, where everything you could ever need or dream about is sold. The smell of herbs, spices, baking bread and simmering lamb pervades the air – and yes, we tried most of the delicious things offered by the friendly purveyors. There is an astounding variety of jewelry, leather goods and brass lamps in fantastical shapes. The steep winding cobblestone streets are draped in great swaths of fabric, straw, and wood for protection from the sun. We also visited the exquisite 15thcentury Ben Youssef Madrasa, the largest school in Morocco, which was in operation until 1960. This historic site was later refurbished and is now open to the public. www.medersa-ben-youssef.com
YSL Museum, Majorelle Gardens
A lush oasis in crowded Marrakesh, French artist Jacques Majorelle designed this 12-acre garden in the 1920s, and the distinctive cobalt hue used throughout is called Majorelle blue. It has been open to the public since 1947 but was later purchased in 1980 by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge and since restored. The late designer’s ashes were scattered in this garden and a simple ionic column serves as a memorial. The museum, which is almost complete and expected to open in October 2017, features a permanent collection of 200 haute couture designs by the master who found inspiration in Marrakesh, his second home. www.fondation-pb-ysl.net
There is a shop selling St. Laurent accessories at surprisingly reasonable prices, far lower than you’d find elsewhere. Think pillows, bags, scarfs, leather wallets and passport portfolios. www.jardinmajorelle.com
A Feast at Dar Yacout
A special treat was dinner at Dar Yacout, a former palace that is now one of the top restaurants in North Africa. Its extraordinary beauty is straight out of an Arabian Nights fantasy; arches, carvings, reflecting pools and antique chandeliers with dripping ampules once filled with burning wicks floating in oils.
You don’t order here, they bring a selection of courses, starting with an endless parade of vegetables and mixed salads, followed by chicken and lamb tagine. Dessert is a huge platter of layered puff pastry dripping in goat’s milk and honey. Definitely go to the rooftop terrace to catch a view of the entire medina after dark. www.daryacout.com
Pierre Balmain
Another restaurant worth putting on the checklist is DarMoha in the former home of the French designer Pierre Balmain. There are tables inside and around the pool in a secret garden. Try the superior lamb served on the bone and the elaborate selection of salads in colorful miniature tagines. There are 28 rooms upstairs should you be thinking of a sleep over. www.darmoha.ma
El Badi Palace
The ruins of El Badi Palace built by a sultan in 1578 are magnificent. It took 25 years to complete and was beyond lavish, with over 300 rooms made of materials including gold and onyx. I walked through the onetime guest quarters below ground, which kept them cooler and the dungeons where prisoners were held. Storks nest along the wall and on the towers, lending a mythical ambience to the scenery. www.palais-el-badi.com
Koutoubia Mosque
The Koutoubia Mosque, the city’s tallest structure, is a working mosque that holds 1,500 worshipers. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside but you can walk around the outside. We heard the Imam’s call to prayer five times a day and it reminded us where we were. It’s important to note here that we experienced absolutely zero negative feelings from the locals during our trip. www.mosquee-koutoubia.com
Tombeaux des Saadiens
The Tombeaux des Saadiens, sacred tombs built in 1578, are an extraordinarily beautiful burial ground for the Saadi Dynasty. The tombs were uncovered in 1917 and were an international archeological sensation until 1922, when they were eclipsed by the discovery of King Tut’s Tomb in Egypt. www.tombeaux-saadiens.co
Now it’s on to Fez for the continuation of our Arabian Nights adventure. I hope I’ve piqued your curiosity. Morocco is one for the bucket list and perhaps because it is not a cruise ship destination it gets overlooked by world travelers. Don’t for a minute let it out of your sights for future travel.