The Best of the West
Most visitors to Ireland follow the path of their travel agents and see some of the most incredible sights imaginable – The Ring of Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula, the wonderful town of Killarney. They’ll even take a jaunting car ride (pony and cart) into the Gap of Dunloe and love every minute of it. My husband and I did just that and so much more on our first trip to the “land of saints and scholars.”
This time it would be different as we wanted to spend time with the Irish people so we decided to “Go west …” into uncharted territory, or at least to us. In retrospect I think we should have opted for the GPS system in our rental car. But off we went carefree from Dublin on our little road trip to the wild west of Ireland headed to the region known as County Mayo, the land made famous by John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara in the movie “The Quiet Man”. They aren’t kidding when they say that Ireland is the land of a thousand shades of green because once outside of Dublin that’s exactly what you see. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get caught in an Irish countryside traffic jam which is just sheep crossing the road and they’re not about to hurry so you might as well just relax and enjoy the scenery. I guess that’s why they call Ireland “a little bit of heaven that fell from the sky”. I knew from my research that this part of the country was a fisherman’s dream and there were plenty of golf courses one more picturesque than the next. To be truthful, we could have just spent endless days doing just that or enjoying the mesmerizing countryside while biking on the scenic paths. But our agenda was to meet the people of Ireland so kicking back and relaxing would have to wait.
To reach our destination we had to cross the Midlands first and not by accident our first stop was the town of Athlone in County Westmeath, romantically referred to as the “heart of Ireland”, as it’s in the center of the country. It reminded us of Paris with its winding streets and boutiques overlooking the Shannon River and the Lough Ree. It’s home to Sean’s Bar which the Guinness Book of Records confirms to be the oldest pub in both Ireland and Europe dating back to 900 A.D. We stopped for lunch at the Left Bank Bistro, owned by Annie McNamara and Mary McCullagh, and we could understand why it had been included in Bridgestone’s 100 Best Restaurants in Ireland guide since 1996. Even though the delicious meal was wonderfully filling, I had to try the little piece of pie that fell from the sky. That lemon meringue pie was so light and airy, it got me thinking about the Irish food. I couldn’t leave without buying their homemade vinaigrette dressing which was out of this world.
From here we ventured south to County Offaly to Clonmacnoise, a sacred site overlooking the river and founded in the 6th century by St. Ciaran, the son of a master craftsman. It was a center of religion, learning, trade, and craftsmanship and many of the crosses carved by the monks are still standing, especially the remarkable 13 foot high “Cross of the Scriptures”, a Celtic High Cross carved with scenes from the Bible. The road to Clonmacnoise could have used some repair but it was worth the trip. The self tour was well executed, with a short movie that gave a visual timeline of the site and an excellent adaptation of how the monks survived the attacks of the Vikings and Anglo-Normans. As we walked among the ruins along the river bank we tried to imagine the Vikings landing in their ships. It was plundered six times between 834 and 1204 AD. Today the ruins include a cathedral, a round tower, three Celtic High Crosses, and a covered altar that was used by Pope John Paul II when he visited the site. We made sure to walk through the Whispering Arch where it’s said you can hear the cries and moans of the monks. Rightfully, it’s been submitted to UNESCO for inclusion on the list of World Heritage sites.
We were lucky enough to spend a few days in County Westmeath but our quest to reach Mayo was always in the back of my mind so we set out for Ballina, a true Irish town full of pubs and Irish charm and our entrée to the west. Someone had said not to expect too much from the Irish food but that was a complete fallacy because we had some of the best farm to table food imaginable. That night we lucked out by choosing to have dinner at The Market Kitchen. We never would have found it if we hadn’t asked one of the locals. Take a guess where it was located? On top of Brennan’s Pub. The fact that the first local we asked knew exactly where it was said something to me about its reputation. Our hostess, Susan Walsh, was the epitome of Irish hospitality and the menu offered everything from full course dinners to pizza and the food was amazing. I pride myself on my cooking skills but the seafood pie I ordered was so flaky and full of fresh seafood that I quickly realized I was out of my league.
Next morning we were off in our car to Mullingar for a tour of Belvedere House, a Georgian estate on 160 acres of lakeside parklands with an incredible history straight out of a romance novel. You could get lost for hours in the breathtaking gardens but we especially enjoyed the self guided tour that had culled cinematic moments from the stormy Belvedere history. The estate has a year round calendar of themed events and when we visited they were preparing for one called Christmas at “Narnia”. It made me wish I could share this one day with my own family. Sure, they’ve seen the magic of Disney so often but have never experienced the magic of Irish history with its lords and ladies and castles and moats.
We could have spent a full day at Belvedere House but I had a mission to look into my family tree so off we headed to the Enniscoe House and Heritage Center. We were honored to be welcomed into this home on a country estate by the exceptionally gracious Susan Kellett, a direct descendant of the original owners, who is so knowledgeable if you happen to be tracing your own Irish ancestry. The manor house is full of gorgeous artwork by her mother, Patita Nicolson. As Enniscoe promises “Irish country life at its best”, this tranquil setting is where peacefulness and perfection are the norm. The heritage center on site is dedicated to promoting the region’s rich heritage and encompasses a museum, a research center (designated by the Irish Family History Foundation – IFHF) offering a service to people tracing their North Mayo roots and a forge and craft training center for learning traditional crafts. Her elegant accommodations are perfect for someone looking for a place to relax and enjoy the wild and unspoiled landscape that County Mayo is famous for – plus, the charming tearoom makes a perfect pot of tea.
We were told that the village of Westport was a must see as it’s further west on the coast and the climb to Croagh Patrick could be made there. This is the mountain where St. Patrick spent 40 days and nights fasting and praying for the conversion of the heathens. We climbed it and were rewarded with a view of Clew Bay that was indescribable. The Tavern Bar and Restaurant just at the foot of the mountain on the waterfront seemed to fit the pattern of our mealtime discoveries so we rewarded ourselves with another culinary experience. The salmon cakes were full of the freshest salmon and expertly seasoned, accompanied by some of the best fries I’ve ever tried this side of Coney Island and I’m Irish. The seafood chowder was also a winner, by far the best I’ve ever tasted. The cozy ambience with a warming fire and the friendliest owners, Myles and Ruth, made us feel like long lost family returned home.
It’s true that everyone who visits County Mayo wants to see Ashford Castle and we were no exception. From Westport we decided to make the drive southeast to Cong, Ireland. This, finally, was where the famous movie “The Quiet Man” was filmed and it’s one movie you should see if you are planning to explore this land where the feeling of antiquity is always new. What’s amazing is that even though it was filmed in 1952, you can still imagine it happening today. Ireland is timeless that way and full of cultural traditions that still exist.
Stopping at the gate to the castle, it seemed for a moment as if we had stepped back in time to the 1300s and I felt the magic. Driving over the moat, it was like entering a fairytale land. Let me just say that there is no shortage of castles in Ireland but this is the real deal. This castle dates back to 1228 and was once the estate of the Guinness family but today it is world famous for its five star luxury hotel status. It’s won countless accolades and is classified as one of the top 50 resort properties in Europe. Seeing is believing, take my word and every traveler should experience grandeur like this at least once in life. From one moment to another we felt as though we were on the set of a Masterpiece Theater production yet I noticed that families and their children were everywhere having a ball. It was Halloween and a full-fledged Harry Potter theme was underway. That evening there was a Harry Potter film festival for the kids while the parents would enjoy a romantic dinner in the exquisite dining room.
Wanting to bring home some Irish treasures it was suggested that I visit the Foxford Woolen Mills, close by in Foxford on the River Moy. Like everything else in Ireland there was a history which had to be told to feel that you had experienced the true Ireland. After the potato famine the mill was founded by a community of five nuns headed by Sister Arsenius as a way of improving the social and economic conditions of a (then) very impoverished area. Having plenty of sheep and untrained but willing Irishmen, the Foxford Mills became a success and offers the finest Irish handicrafts, especially blankets, rugs and tweed all made by local craftsmen. With a museum on the premises, it’s something unique and different. I scored their lamb’s wool and mohair blanket, in vivid Irish green, of course.
Our road trip ended far too soon and my only regret is that we couldn’t clone ourselves to see and do everything. I dream of the day when I can return to visit more of the Irish countryside and savor every vista, perhaps from the seat of a bicycle. We trekked 850 miles and it still wasn’t enough to appreciate all of western Ireland’s perfection. This time round though, I tried to comprehend what makes Ireland so special. I realized that my fondest memory was the warmth of the Irish people who make you feel so welcomed and comfortable. It’s something you’ll just have to experience for yourself.
The country code for Ireland is 353.
Where to Stay:
The Glasson Hotel & Country Club – magnificent views on a lush, challenging golf course, friendly staff, and large guest rooms with every amenity. Free boat service to nearby Athlone. Killinure, Glasson, Athlone, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 90 648 5120; www.glassongolf.ie
Mount Falcon County House Hotel – a four star deluxe hotel on 100 acres of woodlands surrounding incredible grounds with a choice of rooms in the Manor House or your own 3 bedroom self-catered lodge. Foxford Road, Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 74472; www.mountfalcon.com
Enniscoe Guest House – the serene and elegant surroundings at this Georgian Mansion allow it to be included in Ireland’s Blue Book of the finest country manor houses. Castlehill, Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 31112; www.enniscoe.com
Ashford Castle – dating back to 1228, this massive, five star hotel on enchanting grounds is a real castle and has been hosting royalty and celebrities for years. Cong, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 954 6003; www.asford.ie
The Ice House Hotel & Spa – relax and unwind in luxury on the edge of the River Moy. Chic and elegant, it deserves all the awards it has received. The Quay, Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 23500; www.icehousehotel.ie
Where to Eat:
The Left Bank Bistro – nothing short of a culinary masterpiece with mouth watering, homemade cuisine. Fry Place, Athlone, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 90 649 4446; www.leftbankbistro.com
Wineport Lodge – savory food prepared by Chef Cathal Moran plus a fabulous sunset view over Killinure Lough. Glasson, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 90 643 9010; www.wineport.ie
Grogan’s Pub – not to be missed. Not only is the food delicious but the Irish charm and wit of the host and owner makes for a true dining experience. Glasson, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 90 648 5158; www.ireland-guide.com
Temple Country Retreat & Spa – peace, tranquility, and delicious, wholesome farm fresh food. Horseleap, Moate, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 57 933 5118; www.templespa.ie
The Purple Onion – a restaurant and gallery serving gastro pub food; Tarmonbarry Village, County Roscommon, Ireland; 353 43 335 9919; www.purpleonion.ie
Market Kitchen – in the heart of the quaint town of Ballina with a menu from pizza to gourmet cooking, it’s very much loved by the locals. Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 74971
The Tavern Bar & Restaurant – At the base of Croagh Patrick, it’s the perfect Irish pub, full of charm and warmth as well as an amazing culinary experience. Murrisk, Westport, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 98 64060; www.ireland-guide.com
The Ice House – the Pier Restaurant is a culinary experience you’ll not soon forget due to the expertise of Chef Gavin O’Rourke. Ask to take some of the Guinness bread back to your room. The Quay, Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 23500; www.icehousehotel.ie
Crocket’s on the Quay – there’s always something going on here on the Quay and Crocket’s has their finger on the pulse of it. When you’re hankering for a real martini, check in here. Ballina, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 75930; www.crocketsonthequay.ie
What to See & Do:
Clonmacnoise – a monastic settlement, now a sacred site, founded by St. Ciaran in 543 on the River Shannon. The World Heritage people know what they’re doing … go! 7km N of Shannonbridge on the R444, County Offaly, Ireland; 353 90 967 4195; www.sacred-destinations.com
Belvedere House Gardens & Park – movies have been made about this place. Innovative self tour with fascinating history and awesome gardens. Near Mullingar, County Westmeath, Ireland; 353 44 934 9060; www.belvedere-house.ie
Ashford Castle – play Cinderella and stay in a luxurious Irish Castle in a magical setting in the town of Cong which was made famous in the movie “The Quiet Man”. Cong, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 96 954 6003; www.asford.ie
Foxford Woolen Mills – fascinating tour of the woolen mills dating back to 1892 and a chance to score something you won’t find back home. Foxford, County Mayo, Ireland; 353 94 925 6104; www.foxfordwoolenmills.com