Mexico City, One Neighborhood at a Time

Confession: My wanderlust has taken me around the world and to all seven continents as well as countless capitals … but not to Mexico City. Forget all the warnings. Mexico’s largest city, the Western Hemisphere’s most populous and a metropolis recognized as one of the world’s top 10 in size is a must see. At first glance, this urban utopia of 22.5 million is, yes, a bit overwhelming. But when explored, it conveys a small-town vibe thanks to its distinctive neighborhoods.

“Buenas tardes,” we were greeted as the wheels of our Aeromexico flight hit the tarmac. From the air, the landscape appeared dusted with color – the lilac hue of the seasonally blooming jacaranda (typically February to May) amid splashes of vivid pink, yellow and turquoise in many of the exteriors. Imaginative murals appeared like surround-sound, even on busy roadways. Spurred by its energizing appearance, I was excited too by the unknown.

I found a city defined by impressive stats – four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, six Aztec temples, 31 archeological spots, 100 five-star hotels, 180 museums, 478 galleries and a collection of local communities, all different and all one-of-a-kind. This was also a city characterized by a dichotomy of attributes – from quaint cobbled streets and food stalls to multi-lane roundabouts and a gastronomy scene anchored by almost 58,000 eateries (calculation: if one was to eat out at a different restaurant for each meal on every day for more than a half-century, there would still be more restaurants remaining).

Overwhelmed? Understandable. My advice: Follow the guidance of the legendary proverb, “How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.” Then, design an itinerary of a few “must-see” districts. The key is to become acquainted with one region at a time – on your own timetable.

Neighborhood by Neighborhood
My choices – each with its own charismatic character – helped me uncover a portion, albeit little more than a fraction, of Mexico City’s many layers. From experience, suggested guidelines would be to balance your program with old and new, seek curated culture as well as on-the-move encounters and investigate via your palate.

Centro Histórico – At its nucleus was Plaza de la Constitución – the city’s massive main square. Surrounded by history dating back as far as the Aztec Empire, a 360-degree rotation at its center revealed the Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace (the official residence of Mexico’s president), Federal District buildings and the excavated discovery of Templo Mayor (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), alongside a collection of table-top merchants, indigenous performers and religious artifact retailers.

An additional one-mile-long stroll along pedestrian only Calle Madero – a shopping street with skyscrapers and a commemorative sculpture of Pancho Villa – further immersed me into Ciudad de México.

Coyoacán – If there was just one reason to visit here, it would be Casa Azul (Blue House), the working residence of noted artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera – now a museum. Named for its cobalt blue coloring, this peek behind the curtain of the legends’ tumultuous lives far rewards the effort you’ll make to acquire an advance ticket (a must).

But the community offered much more – beckoning green space, Frida “everything” in tribute to the area’s most beloved resident and the nearby artisans’ market (bring cash in small bills as many do not accept credit cards).

Xochimilco – Another burst of color and fun was found along Mexico City’s historic network of canals meandering throughout this prolific flower/vegetable-producing community. Representing the vestiges of yesteryear’s vast water transport system, it was an impressive creation of the Aztecs – today a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. Here, flamboyantly painted gondola-like boats (called trajineras) commandeered by gondoliers (known as trajineros) negotiated mile after mile of floating gardens. On-the-water food, drink and craft vendors, alongside trajineras of floating mariachis provided whatever boaters desired. Depending on the day, it could be a party atmosphere or a peaceful, hour-long silent float (weekends are liveliest; early Monday mornings the most serene).

Roma – “Food trends start here, and I want to share Mexico through its cooking,” said Alma with Sabores Mexico Food Tours introducing our guided, five-hour culinary journey of Colonia Roma. As the gastronomic gathering spot for all the country’s flavors, Mexico City has been deemed the “best place to taste Mexico.”

Discovering the neighborhood by walking it, I learned its 61 murals were painted to proclaim “Roma is back” after its near destruction by the 1985 earthquake. And I became enchanted with its Art Deco and Art Nouveau architecture, as much as its food, art and cultural scenes.

By exploring six food-and-beverage stops – Broka Bistrot, Tres Galeones, Café Deraíz, Mux, Kaaj and Café Barajas – I was introduced to this country, city and borough’s food culture. “In Mexico, food is how we say, ‘I love you,’” explained Francisco, owner of one of Roma’s newest eateries, Kaaj as he advised the proper way to drink mescal – “in small sips, like little kisses.”

One Last Look
To get an overview of this 570-square-mile city, I walked along Paseo de la Reforma, the broad boulevard that dissected it. Comparable to the world’s most famous avenues – from Paris’ Champs-Élysées to Russia’s Nevsky Prospekt in St. Petersburg – the vast thoroughfare was dotted with towering office complexes, globally recognized hotels and revered monuments, most notably the Angel of Independence. This trek along Reforma embodied “the Mexico City” I initially envisioned. And coupled with the neighborhoods, it validated its well-earned reputation – “the city that has it all.”

Tips
Relax and plan to return. Mexico City could never be captured in one visit.

For ease and savings (30-50%), fly from Tijuana to Mexico City, utilizing the San Diego-connected dedicated border crossing, CBX. Open 24/7, it’s a simple walk across the 390-foot enclosed pedestrian sky bridge from the U.S. into the Mexican airport.

While a variety of airlines operate the Tijuana-Mexico City route, Aeromexico serves up the greatest number of daily flights along this route, with all operations – domestic and international – increasing every year.