Montana’s Glacier Country

Last year was a challenge to say the least, and what better rewards a trying time than a made-to-order getaway? Matching one’s post-COVID comfort level with a destination can be complicated—even daunting.  But a visit to Montana’s Glacier Country provides the perfect prescription for peace.

Ready? Let’s explore Montana’s open land beneath its big sky and everything this northwestern state offers safely. Forging a route that loops from Missoula, through Trout Creek, Kalispell, Whitefish, and Big Fork returning to Missoula, this trip’s itinerary promises fresh air and outdoor adventures developed for pandemic safety.

Missoula

Upon landing, the flight attendant’s welcome is the first little surprise: “Welcome to our state, Montana.”  Solid pride and confidence is instilled from the beginning. Streets dotted with signage tout “Montana Strong” and “Stay Safe Missoula.” Situated smack-dab in the middle of the university town’s downtown district, standard safety measures are low profile but obvious at the one-year-old Residence Inn by Marriott. They include frequent wipe-downs of the elevators with a specially formulated solution. An “inn” in name only, the property conveys creativity and exclusivity. As the city’s former mercantile, it was beloved by residents so much that its history was artistically incorporated into its design. Defined by cozy sitting areas, original brick walls, a 44-star American flag discovered during demolition and the work of local artisans — a walk-through is akin to strolling a museum.  

Set in Missoula, the long-ago movie A River Runs Through It underscored the area’s fly-fishing reputation. After driving an hour south with Grizzly Hackle’s fly-fishing pro, Drew Miller, and entering the Bitterroot River a rainbow appears. A good omen for catching the river’s noted rainbow trout? After a day filled with instructions – “Cast. Mend it, mend it. Set!”—the final tally yielded three rainbow, one cutthroat, one whitefish and one submerged tree (yes, that’s true). Describing business as surprisingly good, Miller sums it up: “It’s one of the things we can do that naturally requires social distancing.”

Tip:  Gear up with a visit to the local Walmart for neck scarves and gloves. While this purchase may be the University of Montana’s Grizzly gear, it ensures visitors blend in as locals.

Trout Creek

Getting to Trout Creek involves driving through undeveloped terrain along Highway 200 through small towns and behind logging trucks. Established in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, National Bison Range harbors 350 to 400 bison—animals weighing up to 2,000 pounds, running as fast as 30 mph and jumping four to five feet high. Driving through the 18,500-acre reserve, visitors are on their own and can stop at will, with a solid guarantee of spotting American bison.

The Lodge at Trout Creek is a 10,000-square-foot, five-suite (all different) B &B, located on 90 forested acres of Montana’s Glacier Country. Proprietors Julie and Randy McMillian have created a welcoming retreat, complete with a workout room, theater, grand piano and a perch called the Eagle’s Nest Tower with a 360-degree-view where eagles are often sighted. Picture sitting in the lodge’s master “Trail Boss Suite” at dusk in the rain reclining in a leather lounger next to the fireplace. Across the room a wall of windows gives out to the back lawn with deer crossing. Breakfast is homemade biscuits with gravy, custom-made souffles (you choose your own ingredients) and compelling conversation with the McMillians.

A self-described hygiene freak, Julie says that their current routine differs little from how they’ve always maintained the property, adding “I’m forever wiping down banisters, light switches, doorknobs and remote controls.”

Asked how they weathered 2020, she describes the lodge as “the consolation prize.” A couple whose honeymoon in Switzerland was canceled and a family slated for a yearly get-together changed-up their plans last minute. Those guests were thrilled with their choice of Montana.

Tip:  Before reaching Trout Creek, stop in the town of Thompson Falls and eat at Minnie’s (their sweet rolls are legendary).

Kalispell Area in Montana’s Glacier Country

Continuing north, watch for Highway 56’s milepost #18, a guide to the Ross Creek Cedar Grove. Best viewed along the Nature Loop, this orchard boasts trees up to 400 years old and eight feet in diameter. Montana-style pursuits continue with a 1.6-mile roundtrip hike to the Swinging Bridge and Kootenai Falls before a chow break in Libby at Cabinet Mountain Brewing Co. Have a flagship brew and their famous beer cheese soup.

Located in Marion and conceived by an American Airlines pilot and his wife, Rick and Mary Todd, Cabin Creek Landing Bed and Breakfast sits steps from the runway of a private airport. A stylish log cabin run by innkeeper Chrysalana Pyles, her greeting coaxes us in. “I just took brownies out of the oven if you’d like one.” Meticulous detail ensures guests remain comfortable with their level of interaction. She recently accommodated one couple’s request to stay isolated in their room and have meals delivered to them.

Tip:  Take a float trip with Glacier Guides and Montana Raft who provide multi-waterproof layers and do all the heavy lifting, for an effortlessly relaxing experience.

Whitefish

Surrounded by snow-dusted mountains, this classic Glacier Country town’s Central Avenue brims with coffee shops, clothing stores, cafes and more.

Described as the world’s first ski-in/ski-out treehouses, the Snow Bear Chalets sit within the mountains. Perched 30 feet above the ground, the luxury lodges sit atop a foundation that literally looks like a tree trunk. These turreted abodes have high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows and state of the art kitchens. Personal Chef Tyler Wells (founder of The Chef Guys) dissuades anyone from dining out. He succeeds as he prepares a four-course meal with a huckleberry peach pie for dessert.

Tip:  Exploring the possibility of being Montana’s first accommodation to offer onsite COVID-19 testing, owner Gail Goodwin says: “We want guests, especially a multi-generational group, to have peace of mind and relax.”

Bigfork 

Shortly after crossing a one-way bridge, you enter its quaint downtown, two-block Electric Avenue. Featuring distinctive boutiques, delicious eateries, and even a playhouse, Bigfork exudes an authentic local feel not reflective of tourists. Our stay at Bridge Street Cottages (in one of its creek-facing bungalows) is simple and cozy. Time spent in front of the fireplace and on the deck provided a retreat unto itself.

The one-hour drive to Swan Mountain Ranch for llama trekking is definitely worth it, even in the snow. Walking one of these South American members of the camel family is a bonding experience. First, it feels like walking a puppy on a leash. But then, one towers over you like a pony. Only a quote from famous naturalist John Muir sums up Glacier Country exploration: “Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world.”

So, the verdict is in on 2020’s pandemic shutdowns and travel concerns. Montana’s Aware Campaign – “Safety first, adventure second” – is appealingly taking pride of place.