One of Eastern Europe’s biggest surprises today both in terms of evolution and culture is Warsaw. Largely rebuilt from scratch after World War II, it’s a city of surprises where artists, designers, chefs and a veritable treasure trove of creative types reside. Rooted squarely in its past, it has lately risen like the Phoenix and is wowing visitors with international design, alternative cuisine and fascinating people.
We recently caught up with British/Bermudian graphic designer David Hill, a professionally trained typographer, graphic designer and illustrator. Based in London and living now in Warsaw, he is the Co-Founder and Director of Europe’s first Neon Museum – which is dedicated to the documentation and preservation of Poland’s Cold War neon signs. In December 2005, while traveling through Warsaw with partner and photographer Ilona Karwińska, David first discovered the decaying relics of Poland’s state-sponsored cold war-era neonization program – something that was largely forgotten in the country’s rush to re-join the west. From this discovery, the two worked tirelessly to protect, preserve and document the last of these culturally important neon artifacts. The Neon Museum is now a go-to fixture in Warsaw’s cultural landscape and hosts over 100,000 visitors annually. www.neonmuzeum.org
What inspires you in Warsaw?
It’s got to be the people and their shared history – it’s all about their resilience and strong cultural identity forged through the many upheavals of the 20th century. Once you learn about the history of Warsaw, you’ll know what I mean.
What is your favorite activity?
Warsaw is a musical city and has many concerts and music festivals year-round … but for me, the jazz scene is particularly fantastic. There’s nothing better than a night out with dinner and a late-night jazz bar; it’s what Warsaw does best.
Since it is such a green city, what is your favorite park in Warsaw?
The Chopin concerts in Łazienki Park are wonderful, but my favorite park is Skaryszewski Park in the Eastern suburb of Praga (my neighborhood). With lakes, woodlands and manicured pathways, it’s a great place to stroll, contemplate and picnic with friends.
What is your favorite museum (other than the Neon Museum)?
Not easy to answer, as Warsaw has numerous world-class museums. Personally, I think the Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego) takes top spot. The subject is so universally inspiring… against all odds, Polish heroes – men, women and children – revolting against tyranny. There is even a full-sized replica of a Liberator B-24J Bomber in the main hall!
What is your favorite neighborhood?
For me, the Praga District, home to our Neon Museum, is the most interesting neighborhood and my most cherished. This Eastern Warsaw suburb is packed full of parks, old cobbled streets, cafés and bars, and is edgier than the central districts with a large population of creatives and culture makers, not to mention having some of Warsaw’s best pre-WWII architecture.
What is your “go to” restaurant and what’s your favorite dish there?
For mind-blowing flavors and hearty portions, it has to be the modern Indian restaurant ‘Curry Leaves’ in the fabulous food hall of Hala Koszyki – the Chicken Tikka Masala with Aloo-Gobi is the best I’ve tasted anywhere! The staff is great fun too.
Do you have a favorite restaurant for a special occasion?
I would have to choose ‘Warszawa Wschodnia – by Mateusz Gessler’ in Soho Factory, Praga. You will not find better food, service and atmosphere in Warsaw. The restaurant serves the finest gourmet Polish/French fusion cuisine created by my friend and top chef Mateusz, and a near-perfect wine list to match. It’s a very special place indeed.
Where do you like to go on a Saturday night?
Probably the restaurant – particularly as there is also great live music (sometimes jazz) every Saturday night. Not only does it have a buzz, but I can get home in less than five minutes as I live just a short stroll away.
Are there any secret things you love to do in your city?
I follow the locals, who tend to flock to the Vistula River beaches in the summer evenings and weekends. You’ll find the wilder Eastern side of the river has pristine sandy beaches and a great selection of bars, cycle paths and sporting activities. The Western side has my favorite river bar called New Wave or ’Nowa Fala’ – it has to be the best location in Warsaw for a Gin & Tonic with a sunset view.
What can you find in your city that you can’t find anywhere else?
Besides the Neon Museum (*wink), the thing I find most unique and appealing about Warsaw is a somewhat intangible quality – a wonderful atmosphere or feeling. Maybe this grows with time, as I’ve been living, working and traveling to Warsaw for fifteen years. I never fail to be surprised by its friendly people, and what the place has to offer.
As a graphic artist, is there anything in Warsaw that inspires you?
Everywhere you look it’s apparent that Varsovians are serious about design and the visual arts. For me, the urban graphic design in Warsaw is some of the best in the world … particularly the poster art (something it’s always been famous for).
What would constitute a “perfect” day for you in your city?
Waking up to a sunny day and having one of Warszawa Wschodnia’s famous Shakshuka breakfasts. Then opening the Neon Museum and greeting visitors from around the world and discovering they share our passion for electro-graphic art and design. After closing, meeting up with friends for drinks by the Vistula River.
Neon Museum
ul. Minska 25, Bldg. 55
Warsaw
+48 665 711 635