Go West
A vacation in Negril, Jamaica can be a life-changing experience. This westernmost island community blessed by nature is lush, and full of unexpected pleasures that are right in front of your nose. Staying tucked inside an all inclusive resort 24/7 with your every wish granted isn’t exactly adventurous in the idyllic, natural setting. The Jamaican people are the heart of this tropical paradise, and are genuinely interested in making certain you experience the best of their country. It’s safe to explore pleasing all the senses so try not to be shy.The real soul of Negril lies outside the compound, on the impossibly beautiful 7 mile white sand beach, the road to town (Norman Manley Blvd.), and past the roundabout that leads to Sav (Savannah la Mar, Negril’s nearest big neighbor of a town). It’s here where you’ll find the true Jamaican spirit.
From the gypsy cabbie who haggles for another dollar to the jerk stand Johnny who hands you a paper napkin as if it was a precious stone, this is the island at its’ most memorable. That smile as you bite into your jerk (or the tears the piquant spices bring to your eyes) and the dark, cozy comfort of that backseat with blaring reggae beats upfront are moments that can’t be had inside your resort. So get out past the boundaries and you won’t be sorry.Start by familiarizing yourself with Negril’s beach culture. A prime choice for your stay is the Beachcomber, situated on a beautifully landscaped stretch right on the famous beach. Twenty-four pastel-colored duplex villas fronted by enormous covered porches & terraces hug the azure ocean. An open air lounge and gourmet Italian restaurant cozy up to a small pool that’s perfect for moonlight dips. Half a dozen palapas dot the shoreline and offer safe haven from the powerful sun. The Beachcomber fortunately has a famous neighbor in Margaritaville just next door and there is no end to interactive beach parties and great island sounds while you perfect your tan. Some Jamaican establishments here on the beach are also kind enough to offer beach chairs and towels with a promise of a meal and beverages while enjoying your beach crawl. So, after your check –in and complimentary welcome drink, head to that glistening white sand and start walking.
Your first stop should be Sun Beach. A welcoming sight is the half dozen hanging chair swings rigged up by the friendly bar. This is your cue for a cold Red Stripe, Jamaica’s one and only brew. Chat up the bartender to find out when and where the reggae shows are scheduled during your stay. Most weekend evenings on the beach offer a couple options in the way of live music. After quenching your thirst and checking out the scene head for Idle Awhile, a small, first class hotel (13 rooms) that offers a totally Jamaican experience. Their popular bar and restaurant sits smack on the beach and offers a real Jamaican breakfast. Not hungry? Content yourself with Carlton the bartender’s world class papaya daiquiri or enjoy an aloe massage from Sandra, whose hair braiding hut cornering the property provides a therapeutic lift to the travel weary. You’ll leave with a new look for your next adventure.
It’s never too soon to eat some jerk while in Jamaica and after your first taste of the tasty barbecue flavor you will find yourself hankering for it at any given moment. Tart and tangy, this rich roasting sauce spices up both chicken and pork and Bourbon Beach has some of the best. BB has the look and feel of a theme park sports bar with picnic tables on the sand and it’s one of several places that feature a live reggae show one night a week. While it’s better suited to after dark, their kitchen can deliver a great jerk chicken plate. Yours will come with a side of fries and a thick slice of Jamaica’s doughy white bread.
By midday you may want to do some exploring. Head out to the road and hail a taxi to the roundabout. Most drivers will honk before pulling over to ask where you’re heading. Be sure to have your camera ready as the photo opps are numerous as you head past town and up toward the cliffs. There are numerous roadside restaurants and businesses to explore as the road climbs but meander around the sharp bends and a little further along you’ll be happy to park yourself at Xtabi. Hugging an impossibly beautiful cove with underwater caves and too many crevices to get more familiar with your traveling partner, it’s a prime spot to sip banana daiquiris while taking in the awesome sunset. Stay for dinner if you can, the conch fritters and fresh escoveitch fish are winners.
As twilight approaches Negril’s famous beach comes alive with mystery. Tables are carried out on the sand and tiki torches are lit creating a sense of intrigue. If you haven’t stayed for dinner at the cliffs now is a good time to head back and check out Kuyaba, one of the best restaurants on the beach. Have another Red Stripe and decide if the oceanside deck suits your mood. Serving an island style cuisine, Kuyaba isn’t exactly white-gloved but it’s professional and their kitchen turns out Caribbean style dishes that zing. Maybe by now you’ve succumbed to Negril’s charm and long to continue the hunt. If so, don’t overlook the gourmet vibe at Norma’s at Sunsplash, One Love at The Treehouse where you can wet your feet while eating, or if it’s Saturday, catch the culture show at Le Vendome, Charela Inn’s four star store restaurant where you can get a taste of Jamaica’s history while savoring that filet mignon.
Negril has it all, so don’t be intimidated… find the path less taken and you’ll find endless rewards for the booty you’ve plundered. It only takes a little effort and the payback is hefty.
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The National area code for Jamaica is (1) 876
Where to stay:
Beachcomber Club Resort: This resort is in the middle of the seven mile beach and has 45 rooms in 24 deluxe villas. Beachcomber has a swimming pool and spa services. Gambino’s the Italian restaurant overlooks the beach; Norman Manley Blvd; 957-4170; www.beachcomberclub.com
Idle Awhile: on the beach and Hide Awhile – on the cliffs. Two boutique hotels with the same owner. They offer a relaxed atmosphere with a local island design feel. The restaurant Chill Awhile is great for lunch or dinner; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-3303; www.idleawhile.com; www.hideawhile.com
Charela Inn: 49 rooms built in the hacienda style with an inner courtyard and lush tropical garden surrounding a fresh water swimming pool. Le Vendome restaurant has traditional French Specialties; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4277; www.charela.com
Where to Eat:
Sun Beach: Beach restaurant with entertainment three times a week. Offers Jamaican and Chinese cuisine; Norman Manley Blvd; 957-9118 Kuyaba. Serves local Jamaican specialties with an emphasis on fish; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4318 Norma’s. Inside the Sea Splash resort is one of the best gourmet restaurants on the beach. Nouvelle Jamaican; Sea Splash Hotel; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4041; www.seasplash.com/norma.htm
Treehouse Bar Restaurant: This restaurant juts out into the sea and give a great perspective of the beach; 800-Negril1; www.negril-treehouse.com
What to See:
Negril is famous for live reggae music every night of the week. The beach is where most of the music happens, and there is a schedule of where and when shows happen (remember to check with the locals to confirm days and times as it is an island where everything is subject to change).
Bourbon Beach: Shows on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4405; www.bourbonbeachnegril.com Roots Bamboo. The show’s here are on Wednesday nights; Norman Manley Boulevard; 876-957-4479; www.rootsbamboo.com
Alfred’s Ocean Palace: Live shows on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4669; www.alfreds.com Risky Business. Shows on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays; 957-3008; www.riskybusinesses.com
Charela Inn: Offers a folklore show on Saturday nights and a Cabaret show on Thursdays; Norman Manley Boulevard; 957-4277; www.charela.com
Mayfield Falls: About an hour and fifteen minutes from Negril, there is an unspoiled reserve with some exciting falls. A guide will take you up or down these falls where you can swim in some underwater caves. Mayfield is more rigorous that Dunn’s River Falls, the most famous of Jamaica’s falls near Montego Bay. The spectacle of nature is incredible to behold at Mayfield; Mabel Ewin Drive; 971-6580; www.mayfieldfalls.com/photo-tour/index2.html