New England, USA

INNside New England

 

It was summer in the city, New York that is, and the livin’ wasn’t easy. My friend Danielle and I were stressed out. What to do? Two words: ROAD TRIP!!

Between us we have three daughters who were frolicking at summer camps in New England so we decided to drive up to retrieve them for a few days and create some of our own adventures. Two coffees, bagels and cream cheese in the car and off we went. After a little maneuvering getting out of Manhattan, we were soon heading north on I-95, freewheeling on the open road.

Day One

We decided our first stop would be Brimfield, Massachusetts, the antiquing mecca of the Northeast.

We arrived there at 11:00 am, somewhat later than the ungodly 5:00 AM that’s the usual gathering time for local dealers. It was a blisteringly hot day and, possibly as a result, we found the shopping to be somewhat of a disappointment. Our expectations were high after hearing for years about the “insider” flea market, but we encountered retail prices, marginal selection, little activity, and few deals.

Grabbing the roadmap, we decided to make a break for the border, and headed due north to Vermont. Danielle’s older daughter was a camp counselor at Camp Neringa, a Lithuanian cultural heritage camp that has been around for over forty years. We picked her up for a few hours break, heading to the neighboring town of Brattleboro.

Brattleboro, Vermont, is a charming, ex-hippie town, teeming with bookstores and vintage stores. At the local antique emporium on Main Street, a restored 1906 department store, Twice Upon a Time, we picked up old slips for $12.00 (great for sleeping) and a pair of pristine Fire King Jadeite candlestick holders for only $24.00. The town boasts several bakeries, and we particularly liked Amy’s Bakery Cafe(also on Main Street) where we shared a divinely delicious giant home-made Snicker Doodle Cookie, accompanied by gourmet iced coffee and refreshing iced tea.

Revived by the slower pace of Brattleboro, we continued north to theApplebutter Inn Bed & Breakfast, just outside the pretty village of Woodstock, Vermont. The Applebutteris the real deal – a lovingly restored and beautifully maintained Federal gabled house built in 1854. On the National Register of Historic Places, the Inn combines a charming atmosphere with tasteful elegance and a “green” philosophy. In addition, its physical surroundings are absolutely lovely, sophisticated, and uniquely peaceful.

The décor of the Inn radiates warmth and serenity. Wide-planked floors are beautifully restored and maintained, and original stencils grace each charming room. Lest you think that you are trapped in the past, rest assured that the Inn offers the best of contemporary information technology in the downstairs common spaces, with access to a computer, television and radio, as well as games and books. Whether you want a quiet place to get away and refresh a relationship or are attending a graduation at Dartmouth or other area schools, summer or winter, the Applebutter definitely has something to offer!

Danielle and I found the Applebutter’s proprietors, Michael Pacht and Barbara Barry (he, a former lawyer; she, a special education teacher) gracious, helpful, and non-intrusive, and they manage their charming B+B with a bevy of personal touches, such as the freshly baked cookies (coconut, chocolate pecan) and home-made ice tea made available to guests on a daily basis.

Settled in after an exhausting day, we sought a simple dinner. Michael recommended the White Cottage, a down-to-earth roadside burger joint reminiscent of a mid-century drive-in. It proved to be just what we had in mind. As we sat on picnic benches overlooking the Ottauquechee River eating broiled-to-perfection burgers and crispy fries, Danielle and I planned day two of our journey.

Day Two

Breakfast brought a marvelous gourmet start to the day: ginger scones with apple butter (appropriately) and just picked blueberries and raspberries. Barbara also made us delicious hot berry-stuffed soufflés right out of the oven accompanied by strong, delicious coffee. The Applebutter never waivered from its’ motto of gracious perfection.

Then it was time to hit the road again. Day Two’s main order of business was motoring to South Royalton to retrieve my teenage daughter. The village of South Royalton, nestled in the idyllic and historically significant Green Mountains (one-time hideout for Vermont’s founders, Ethan Allen and his Green Mountain Boys) is the home of the Round Robin Horseback Riding Camp, one of the most beautiful in the Northeast. In this rural community with an abundance of exquisitely scenic trails, owners Pat and Steve Read have created a family atmosphere for young riders who have a serious interest in learning or improving their skills. Besides riding they offer various other activities like swimming and tubing on the White River and day trips to nearby Silver Lake.

My daughter was sad to leave but was happier when she learned we were on our way to pick up Danielle’s younger daughter in Boston. A budding ballerina, she was participating in the Boston Ballet’s Summer Intensive program. Within a few hours we went from the pristine green of the Vermont mountains to a bustling metropolis. We targeted a Saturday pick-up to give our dancer a break in her intensely packed schedule, as Sunday was the only day she didn’t have classes. What did someone say about Ballet Boot Camp?

But we still had to find a place to stay. We opted for a boutique hotel called the Onyx, part of the Klimpton chain. Erected in Boston’s historic South End in 2004, the Onyx sits on a charming side street just a stone’s throw from Faneuil Hall, the Freedom Trail, Bunker Hill, North Station, and the TD Garden, home to Beantown’s roundball Celtics and ice skating Bruins. The girls were thrilled by the four-star accommodations and snazzy modern lobby in masculine tones with leopard carpet and wine-colored walls.

The hotel’s staff was exceptionally helpful and accommodating offering great suggestions for where to head for a picnic lunch, even packing a cooler with ice, water, and crackers to prepare us for an afternoon outing in Boston Commons. Yes, Boston has history and plenty of culture but after our picnic we asked ourselves what complements an afternoon in the park? The answer? Pampering!

We hopped the nearby subway to Newberry Street, for a first rate manicure/pedicure at one of our favorite places, the G2O Spa and Salon. G2O’s owner, Joyce Hampers, started the spa eighteen years ago when a “one-stop” spa didn’t exist. She continues to be innovative with a full range of services including water therapy, hair styling, massages and facials as well as packages for couples and bridal parties. Their attention to detail is impressive, emphasizing a mind-body connection in soothing, environmentally-friendly surroundings. Having just settled into its new quarters at 278 Newberry Street, the spa is beautifully designed and appointed. It’s all about water with a rejuvenating atmosphere that’s decorated in blue and white with sparkling glass tiles and chrome accents. Services are comparable to a five-star hotel spa and Joyce’s wonderful staff does their utmost to enhance the luxury experience.

Relaxed and refreshed we stopped back at the Onyx to change then ventured off for dinner to the Top of the Hub in the Prudential Tower at 800 Boylston Street. Fifty-two stories above Back Bay, the Top of the Hub is a must-see for visitors to this city, offering magnificent views of Boston’s skyline and harbor. The buzz of foreign languages could be heard in the background as we entered the cosmopolitan dining room, decorated in soothing beige tones.

Our impeccably charming and incredibly knowledgeable server guided us in our selections from the eclectic continental menu. Appetizers were a baby spinach salad with roasted walnuts, pears and Vermont goat cheese topped with a port wine reduction dressing and richly crusted lump crab cakes with an avocado cream and roasted pepper remoulade. Entrees were a delicious loin of veal with a porcini mushroom topping and turnip puree and a pan-fried sea bass accompanied by soba noodles and broccolini. We barely had room to share the piece-de-resistance – a warm valrhona chocolate cake served with homemade blackberry ice cream and burgundy sauce. The Top of the Hub carries a wide range of interesting wines ranging in price from $50 to $270.

Day Three

After spending a little quality time with our daughters and sending them back to their summer adventures, we continued ours through Massachusetts with an eye toward reaching Maine. Our next destination was The Inn at Castle Hill, an hour north of Boston in Ipswich, Mass.

With a malfunctioning GPS and a lousy map, one hour turned into four, and we were relieved to get some directions from a kind, local patrolman. The Inn is located on the expansive 2,100 acres of the Crane Estate and home to a wide diversity of wildlife. Both the Inn and the Crane Estate are properties of the Trustees of Reservations, a non-profit conservation organization that preserves for public use properties of exceptional scenic, historic, and ecological value in Massachusetts.

Redolent of history, the Inn itself has a tranquil, genteel feel, sporting a wrap-around veranda, dark wood plank floors, rattan shades and a powder blue dining room. Each of the 10 guest rooms are uniquely appointed and have newly renovated private baths (stocked with a lovely array of products). The innkeeper, George Shattuck III, left us a note and room keys, and was friendly and welcoming the next morning.

Due to our late arrival, we’d missed the full glory of the Inn during daylight. The next morning brought sweeping expanses of incredible scenery, miles of nature trails for real New England hiking and biking and access to the lovely Crane Beach. A short drive away museums, culture and historic Salem, Gloucester and Rockport awaited us. After a hearty breakfast of seven-grain bread, a cheddar omelet and espresso, off we went.

 

Of course we had to indulge in some antiquing in the surrounding towns of Ipswich and Essex. The furniture was prime and the dealers willing to negotiate. At Main Street Antiques, 44 Main Street in Essex, I acquired an Art Deco bed frame which the owner, Robert Coviello, graciously offered to store for me until I was able to return to retrieve it. Talk about great customer service! Now I have an excuse to return to the area.

Day 4

Up early, again we hit the road heading north.

“Oh, we’re in Maine” I said as we sped across the border. Danielle just looked at me from behind the steering wheel. I understood better a good three hours later as we approached our first destination, theBalance Rock Inn in Bar Harbor.

Originally built as a family “cottage” in 1903, today it is a luxurious and romantic bed and breakfast perched on the oceanfront and a short walk away from downtown Bar Harbor. Most unusual is that the Balance Rock Inn welcomes guests of the four legged variety and we met several dogs (and their owners) who had made a tradition of visiting there annually. There are 21 rooms and suites each furnished handsomely and specifically tailored towards comfort for every visitor. We were fortunate to have booked suites with king sized poster beds that came with Select Comfort Sleep Number pillow top mattresses, down comforters, and 500 thread count bedding, all state-of-the-art for every room. Danielle indulged in a movie in her sitting room which boasted a lovely fireplace while I picked up a long-awaited summer read followed by a bath which was a deluxe treat having an optional personal sauna.

After a refreshing and cloud-comfortable sleep, we happily greeted Day 5.

Day 5

An extensive breakfast buffet awaited us in the dining room – lots of home baked goodies, scrambled eggs, sausage, cereal … anything you could possibly want for breakfast. We chose to sit on the back veranda overlooking Frenchman’s Bay which was perfection. A history of hospitality, spectacular scenery and innate charm made the Balance Rock Inn the perfect introduction to the state.

That evening we ate dinner in town at Maggie’s, a Bar Harbor staple for 25 years. Maggie McNeil, the owner and head chef, offered traditional Maine lobster specialties in casual and warmly intimate surroundings. We started with Maggie’s New England shrimp and corn chowder, hearty and satisfying. The main course of lobster crepes with a French brandy sauce (a house specialty) was delicious, and so were the Maine mussels sautéed with scallions and wine and served over Fettuccini topped with Feta. Maggie is very much hands-on, and suggested we end our meal with a scrumptious fresh-from-the-oven plum cake topped with homemade cardamom ice cream. No wonder Maggie’s has such a great reputation!

Maine is outdoors, and Arcadia National Park is a must. To commemorate day 5 of our excellent adventure, we had tea at Jordan Pond. What could be better than the fresh popovers and homemade lemonade, seconded by a rich lobster stew? We enjoyed dining on a table set on an expanse of open lawn and shaded by an umbrella, with the entire stunning park as our backdrop! After afternoon tea, we explored the dining building, which sports a birch-bark dining room set off by a massive field stone fireplace. The Rockefeller family bestowed Jordan Pond to the National Park Service in 1946, a real gem that juxtaposes the tradition of “tea-time” with contemporary hiking and exploring the great outdoors.

That evening, back in Bar Harbor, the Bass Inn offered a clean, serene and non-fussy environment in a solidly restored 1885 Victorian “cottage.” The Bass family originally built this summer home to enjoy exactly what we were – escaping city heat and grime to enjoy the refreshing ocean air and calming scenery. The décor? Palm Beach meets Maine. The look? Old world elegance, with stained-glass windows blended with modern conveniences. The furnishings mix antiques and wicker; lovely original details have been painstakingly restored without adding Victorian reproductions. Rooms have discreet flat screen TVs and a library of DVDs for guest entertainment, with antique pieces tastefully interspersed.

A breakfast of several gourmet choices was served in the Atrium – sour cream coffee cake, fruit brochette with vanilla sauce and two choices of lemon, blueberry waffles or lobster quiche. Husband and wife innkeepers Jeffrey and Terry were gracious and happy to share their knowledge of the local area and history. He handles the marketing and operations; she is the chef and managing hostess. In season, they offer guests a continuation of Terry’s creative cookery at their on-premise restaurant, 10 Tables. Truly a dynamic duo!

In search of an authentic, honest-to-goodness Maine dining experience, we drove to what seemed the end of Main to find Thurston’s Lobster Pound, in the town of Bernard. This rustic outdoor café on a town wharf overlooks the working fishing docks of Bass Harbor. Locals sell and eat their lobsters here, off the beaten track and in a locale fit for a postcard. Thurston’s offers waitress service downstairs, but we opted for an authentic summer experience – standing in line upstairs with a beer (Danielle really liked the local micro-brewed Harbor Lighthouse Ale) and debating menu choices. You can opt to have your lobster solo or with corn, coleslaw, roll, and a generous piece of Thurston’s blueberry spice cake (which was so delicious we wanted to buy an extra one for breakfast the next day). Or you can enhance the experience with steamers, the chowder of the day, lobster stew, or crab cakes with chipotle sauce. Thurston’s caters to families as well, with a lot of kid friendly-items, such as grilled cheese, burgers, and a grilled chicken sandwich topped with Boursin. We enjoyed our sweet and succulent lobsters with plastic bibs and nutcrackers. The experience was great fun, and the smell of cool ocean breezes kept us company for days! Well, onward to day 6 and heading west and south.

Day 6

Here was truly antique and flea market mecca! All along Route 3 were many small and larger flea markets, antique stores, and vintage shops. Shopkeepers came from a Florida winter to a Maine summer to display their wares. Lots of bargains and interesting stories to boot!

And then, back on Route 3 and the open road … just at the eastern end of the town of Ellsworth, we spotted a little shack on the side of the road with a handmade sign – Berry Palace. It was a treasure trove of organic berries and homemade goodies. The owner sourced only about 5 local growers and businesses and on this particular afternoon had a luscious selection of organic homemade raspberry pies as well as hand-picked wild blueberries.   The honey that Danielle brought home made her husband smile; it was the best he’d tasted since his childhood in the Lithuanian countryside. We tried to engage the owner in a discussion of his marketing strategy and sales presence, rather unsuccessfully. Finally, upon being questioned as to his hours, he drawled “I’m open from the first strawberry to the last blueberry, or whenever it’s time to go hunting … well, that’s about the 2^nd week in September or thereabouts. You can go back home!”

And, as we headed back to city life and the end of our adventures, a quick overnight stop back in Boston brought us to our “piece de resistance,” The Inn at Clarendon Square. When we tried to make our reservation we were worried there’d be no availability as this brownstone boutique hotel has only six rooms, but we were in luck! The Inn may be small in size, but it is large in luxury and graciousness, design and historical integrity.

The Inn at Clarendon Square is located in Boston’s South End, a very up-and-coming neighborhood with a hip vibe, lots of lofts and galleries and just five blocks from the Museum of Fine Arts. Each of its rooms is individually designed with accents and artifacts from the owners’ travels from Africa to Moscow. And, to top off the many pleasant and unusual surprises we found within the Inn, on its roof is a working hot tub with a splendid view of the Boston cityscape. Our host shared that the Clarendon has been the backdrop for many engagements, proposals and anniversaries.

Our room was an extraordinary 900-foot floor-through, with all modern comforts and conveniences (TV, mini-bar, sound system) as well as an original fireplace, luxurious spa bath (tub, double shower and separate vanities) with all the amenities.

Hosts Stephen Gross and Bobby Ciletti exceeded our expectations on every level. The service was over the top with attention to the minutest detail, non-intrusive and personal.

The Clarendon Square

is surrounded by hip, fun restaurants. Our hosts’ suggestion of dinner at Aquitane, a charming French bistro a few blocks away, was right on target. We dined on salad du marche with perfectly toasted hazelnuts, radishes, and drizzled with a sherry vinaigrette. Our server suggested a main course of seared monkfish, served with a crunchy, citrus flavored faro and a side of pureed beans and fresh corn. Aquitane’s selection of wines is extensive and varied, ranging from classic French choices to the best of California as well as carefully selected boutique labels. For a sweet ending, we chose a homemade raspberry sorbet (perfect blend of tart and fruity) and a tarte tartin accompanied by a luscious dollop of crème fraiche. Truly a sweet and perfect ending to our summer adventure.

All that remained was our drive back to Manhattan the next day – revived, refreshed, and ready to do it again next summer!