New Mexico has always been a counterculture destination in the southwest – a natural place for outsiders to end up. It’s an old tradition; the amazingly scenic Roadrunner State was settled by adventurers from New Spain – today’s Mexico – in the 1500s through 1700s.
In 1947, some visitors from even farther away checked out New Mexico. Sadly, their aircraft crashed. It was a flying saucer, and this vacation gone awry is now known as “The Roswell Incident.” Scores of Roswell ranchers and townspeople witnessed the saucer, the crash, and even the alien bodies. I’m reporting this as fact because I’ve been to Roswell and find the evidence indisputable. And I’ve had a Roswell UFO sighting myself. (That’s a story for another day.)
Today, New Mexico’s artsy capital, Santa Fe, and its big city, Albuquerque, are filled with transplants from Planet New York, Dallas, and LA. Oh, and of course France too. And New Mexico’s highest profile Gauls are the Gruet clan of Albuquerque. They’re devoted New Mexicans and yet at the same time eternally French. And, guess what, they make wine (not surprising). In New Mexico (that’s surprising). Their signature booze is a sparkling wine that, except for its origin, is identical to classy French champagne.
I know it sounds strange. When I first heard of New Mexico Champagne I went into New York snark mode. But the joke was on me, because Gruet rocks. Now it’s your turn to taste this stuff. Then you’ll be talking about Gruet New Mexico champagne, too. It’s really just a technicality that you can’t call it champagne because it isn’t made in Champagne, France. But, hey, the Gruets are from Champagne. So are their vines, their equipment, and even their barrels. Only their prices aren’t champagne-like; Gruet’s most popular labels cost only about $13 a bottle.
OK, so we’ve covered the what and the where. But maybe you’re wondering, ahem, why are French people making French champagne in the wilds of New Mexico, where aliens come a-calling?
“It’s a great Old World to New World story,” says Laurent Gruet. He’s the son of winery founder Gilbert Gruet, who owned and ran wineries in Champagne. “You know how French people love the Grand Canyon?” he asks. (We do.) “Well, my family was traveling through the Southwest in 1983. We heard that Spanish priests, the padres, started making wine in New Mexico in the 1600s, and they discovered that wine grapes grow very well in the southern half of the state.” “My dad checked it out and really liked what he saw,” says Laurent. “He decided to plant an experimental vineyard here with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. They’re both essential to make champagne.” “Well, it worked. The vines completely loved it here. Southern New Mexico’s sandy soil, hot days, and cold nights turned out to be the perfect conditions for growing champagne grapes.”
As a teenager, Laurent apprenticed in champagne wineries in France. Now, at 45, he’s Gruet Winery’s boss and winemaker. (His sister Nathalie is also on board.) “Just like our vines, I’m very happy in New Mexico,” Laurent says. “This is such a cool place. And I’ve gotten used to being called ‘the French cowboy.’” “Gruet is still a surprise to many people. And when I hear them say that good champagne-style wines can’t be made in New Mexico,” Laurent says, “I don’t argue with them. I just pour them a glass of Gruet.”
Good advice. Buy a bottle and pour yourself a glass.
Gruet wines–over 100,000 cases annually–are distributed to 48 U.S. states.
And next time you’re in New Mexico, stop by Gruet Winery in Albuquerque to sample various sparkling wines in their tasting room. You couldn’t ask for a better way to end your New Mexico visit than at Gruet Winery. From there, you’re just a couple of miles to the airport, where you can drop off your rented UFO.
Gruet Winery
8400 Pan American Freeway NE (I-25)
Albuquerque, NM 87113
888-857-9463
www.gruetwinery.com
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The Sidebar:
Gruet champagne-style wines include:
• Crisp, dry, Chardonnay-based Brut NV (non-vintage)
• Pinot-Noir-based Blanc de Noirs NV (these two are Gruet’s best-sellers)
• Rosé NV, 100% Pinot Noir
• The less-dry Demi Sec NV
• Vintage, off-dry Blanc de Blancs and vintage Grand Rosé
• Vintage, oak-aged Gilbert Gruet Grande Reserve
• Still wines: two Chardonnays, two Pinot Noirs, and a Syrah
You can buy Gruet’s Champagne-style wines in many wine stores including:
New York: Union Square Wines
LA: The Wine House, Beverages & More
Chicago: Binny’s Beverage Depot
Dallas: Sigel’s
You can order Gruet by the glass or bottle in:
New York: Gramercy Tavern
LA: Spago
San Francisco: Urban Tavern
Chicago: NoMi
Dallas: Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck
Vegas: Mix at Mandalay Bay
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