New Orleans for the Holidays

Part French, part Southern and 100 percent enchanting, New Orleans is unlike any other city in the country.  In this famed place where Creole tradition abounds, legendary music, superb cuisine and of course, extra special cocktails combine to create a celebratory atmosphere for the holidays.  Every year during this time, you can count on New Orleans to bring something original to the celebration.  There are over 60 holiday experiences this year.  Here are a few of my favorites.

Holiday Home Tours

Every year during the holidays, many New Orleanians decorate their homes with imaginative seasonal flair and some of those homes are open to the public for viewing on holiday home tours.  Many of the homes are in the Garden District.  Developed in the 19th century, the Garden District is home to the best collection of historic Southern mansions in the country.   Some of the wealthiest people once called these estates home and most of them still look the same as they did a century ago.  As you stroll streets lined with massive magnolia trees, you’ll be treated to holiday décor that is festive and sophisticated.

St. Louis Cathedral Holiday Concerts

Can you imagine a holiday season without music?  Definitely not in New Orleans. Whether it be traditional Christmas carols or silly tunes about grandmas getting run over by reindeer, music is an integral part of the holiday season here.  New Orleans delivers an overload of fantastic music experiences.  On Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter, the historic St. Louis Cathedral is host to a holiday concert series.  The city offers up some of its best jazz, gospel, pop and classical music in hour long concerts.  Performances are free and open to the public.   In recent years there have been as many as fifteen individual concerts between the beginning of December and Christmas Eve.

LUNA Fête

The Arts Council New Orleans kicks off the holiday season and lights up New Orleans with LUNA Fête.  Launched last year, LUNA Fête employs the city’s historic buildings as a canvas for large-scale outdoor light installations.  I was fortunate to be there for the inaugural year last December and witnessed this spectacular display on Gallier Hall.  LUNA Fête displays last about five minutes and the combination of music, architecture and lighting theatrics is mesmerizing. This is sure to get your holiday spirit to kick-in.

Holiday Libations

Speaking of holiday spirit, what better way to give yours a boost than with a holiday libation or two? There’s no question New Orleans can deliver a great cocktail any time of year, but for a special experiential cocktail hour Bourbon O is the place to visit. Master mixologist Cheryl Charming has invented a drinks program that reflects a sense of whimsy and creativity and her holiday specials deliver the goods. Not to miss is Rachel’s Naughty Can Be Nice Nog, a made from scratch Egg Nog infused with Milagro tequila and Amontillado sherry. Talk about a sassy take on an old favorite!

Reveillon Dinners

You’ll never go hungry in New Orleans with its legendary restaurant scene.  Around the holidays, there are even more feasts to consume and one of the oldest traditional ones is the Reveillon dinner.   Begun in the early 1800s by the Creoles, the Reveillon dinner was a big family meal served after returning home from midnight mass.  In French, New Orleans’ original language, the word “reveillon” means “awakening” and the dinners were a way of breaking the daylong religious fast leading up to Christmas Eve.

Although it had largely died out by World War II, restaurateurs in New Orleans revived it in the 1990s and today several restaurants in town offer their own versions of the Reveillon dinner.  Meals are typically four or five courses and offered as a prix fixe menu and feature each restaurant’s specialties like turtle soup, oyster gumbo and lavish desserts. The Reveillon tradition is most commonly enjoyed by local families and friends gathered around a large table in an old French Quarter restaurant sometimes in one of the small private dining rooms.  When you’re in town, you can join the locals to experience this delicious tradition and be sure to order white chocolate bread pudding for dessert.

Bonfires on the Levee

Just outside the city at Oak Alley Plantation you can experience a traditional plantation Christmas with dining, dancing, and a spectacular bonfire on the levee. A local tradition dating long before the levees were built, bonfires guided family and friends coming off the river as they looked for the inlet or slip belonging to their loved-one’s home. Local folklore also tells of additional bonfires lit on Christmas Eve to help guide Papa Noel.

A brass quintet leads the traditional parade up the mansion’s illuminated alley to the levee for the lighting of the bonfire and caroling right on the banks of the Mississippi River.  Afterwards, the party continues at the mansion with cocktails and dancing.

New Year’s Eve

The biggest party in the USA may be in Times Square, but in New Orleans the big party is in Jackson Square.  Live music, partygoers and a New Year’s ball drop are all part of the festivities – except the “ball” is a giant fleur de lis dropped from the top of Jax Brewery followed by an amazing fireworks show over the Mississippi River.  And no need to worry about a New Year’s Day hangover; a trip to Café du Monde for beignets will cure anything that ails you!

Post New Year’s Day

If you’re lucky enough to be spending more than a few days in New Orleans for the holidays and are rested up from all the New Year’s Eve festivities, the annual General Pakenham’s Final Supper is a costumed dinner with the General who lost the War of 1812. Now in its fourth year, this period event, organized by the New Orleans Hotel Collection for the activities surrounding the Battle of New Orleans reenactments, is over the top.  Held on Thursday, Jan 7 at the historic 1817 Orleans Ballroom, it provides a sense of authenticity in a way that is nearly impossible in the modern day.  With entertainment by the Hogg Family Players, including James Linden Hogg performing fiddle, harmonica and flute, the evening begins with cocktails at 6:30 pm.  A robust period “eve of the battle” meal created by chef Joey Wells follows at 7:30 pm with beef and root vegetables as would have been typical over 100 years ago as well as crab cakes, a period dessert and Stilton cheese.  A fine claret is served all evening, and a port ends the festivities.  British officers of Pakenham’s entourage are the guests of honor, and the General himself heads the officers’ mess with toasts, jokes and a sense of fun that belies the events to unfold on the morrow. The cost is $139   inclusive of tax and period costumes (1790-1830) are welcomed.  Reservations:   Judy Le Blanc at 504-571-4672

www.neworleanshotelcollection.com

Follow your joy to New Orleans this holiday season – you’ll be glad you did.

For more information on New Orleans holiday traditions visit www.holiday.neworleansonline.com