Highpoint Bistro & Bar
I wondered about the name of the restaurant as we sat down at our table at Highpoint, a New York City place that has to be experienced. When I asked our clever server Jason, he said that this was the first restaurant in Manhattan for chef, Phil Deffina. Let me tell you … we’ve been waiting a long time for Phil’s highpoint and we’re glad he’s finally hit it here!
Phil is a Culinary Institute of America graduate who achieved progressively higher levels of experience and education in each esteemed kitchen he joined. Most notable in his repertoire is a stint at David Burke at Bloomingdale’s with David Burke where he was front man for the preparation of Burke’s signature dishes. At Highpoint, the seasonal menu perfectly reflects his background and career experience: diverse, multi-faceted, interactive, exciting and most importantly, fun.
The unassuming exterior of the restaurant belies Phil’s food. Remember the expression, “Don’t judge a book by its’ cover?” When you arrive for your reservation, don’t let the outside sway you. The food here from start to finish is a revelation, and in the words of our server, “it’s simple food done well.”
We decided on a bar appetizer to imagine what it would be like if we were hanging at the bar, a neighbourhood hub of conversation and laughter. The Serrano mac and cheese poppers were the perfect foil for cocktails – crunchy and sweet with a sour cream and chive tartar sauce that was mildly tart but not overwhelming. Appetizers of beautifully presented tuna tartar tacos, a jumbo lump crab cake with a blood orange and basil emulsion and a half order of homemade gnocchi with a mushroom ragout showcased the chef’s versatility and clued us in to Phil’s expertise. We were begging for more after the first course.
For mains we decided on a roasted natural chicken (from Lancaster, Pa.), moist and as juicy as could be. “Not your Mother’s Meatloaf” was spicy and rich with a combination of meats and served with mac and cheese, baby carrots and green beans. It was definitely a far cry from my mom’s meatloaf! The change-up was a vegetarian watermelon steak au poivre which arrived looking like a t-bone and served with shaved jicama, asparagus and tomato. The subtle sweetness of the fruit added another dimension to the beef and chicken and we found ourselves going for it continually to balance the flavors of our entrees.
It was difficult to decide on dessert but we went with Jason’s recommendation of the caramel experiment, a shrine to caramel and not to be believed. Here, Phil dazzled us with fantasy drizzling warm caramel over a brick of Himalayan rock salt and accompanying it with a mini cupcake, a brownie, berries and candied pecans, marshmallow and popcorn and crowned with a pretzel. The experiment was successful folks. We set us off into the night wondering what Phil could do with fish and chips and bbq short ribs. The consensus for all was a plan to return asap.
Highpoint is a new one of a kind neighbourhood restaurant, rooted with a warm “feel at home” ambience in Chelsea’s historic brick and steel bloodlines. Signature cocktails are made with seasonal fruits and fresh squeezed juices and the restaurant serves blood orange mimosas at brunch, Saturdays and Sundays 11:30 to 4pm. Their wine menu features over 40 different bottles, 12 available by the glass. Especially good news for all carnivores – the restaurant has a daily $10 burger and beer special!
Highpoint
216 Seventh Avenue @ 23rd Street
New York, NY 10011
646-410-0120