Newfoundland’s Friendly Vibes

When people hear that I visit Newfoundland, they almost always ask two things: “Where is Newfoundland?” and “Have you seen any icebergs?” The island is larger than the state of Maine and sits in the Atlantic about 1,000 miles northeast of Boston (Nova Scotia is roughly half way there). And YES, we see fabulous icebergs from May through July. But as amazing as it is to see icebergs as well as moose, whales and puffins, the island is so much more than what a visitor sees. It’s about what the visitor can experience, and more specifically about who the visitor meets.

Newfoundland is a land of independent, hardy people. The province of “Newfoundland and Labrador” did not formally join Canada until 1949 and its soldiers fought under the Newfoundland flag in World War II. These are men and women who have lived directly off the sea and land for generations. And often it’s been a hard life. The people have survived by depending on one another, living in small communities and preserving traditions passed down from one generation to the next.

My own visits to destinations like Paris, London and New York have been wonderful and special because of their history, buildings, museums and energy. The hotels and restaurants dazzled. But Newfoundland makes a different sort of impression on me. It impacts my core humanity as I meet more and more of the people living there.

An Outport Welcome
Susan Rose is practically a national treasure. She’s a retired teacher and civil rights leader who runs a small business providing rental homes and producing events during the tourist season. Last year, my husband and I planned our visit for October. All was good until we arrived at our rental and found that essential amenities were not available and it wasn’t going to work. We were in a very small town and needed a place to stay for ten days, and with no notice!

We learned quickly that it was the end of the vacation season for the entire “outport” community. An outport is a small, sometimes isolated town; our chances to find new accommodations would be slim. Our first call was to Susan at Coastal Cottages. Her rental was on the water in the town of Blackhead and only five minutes away from our planned location; but alas, it was closed for the season.  After an hour of calling around and considering that we might need to radically change our plans, Susan called back and said the house was ours. “Give me a few hours to move out and you can have it at 6 PM.” Wow, she treated us like family! The experience was far and away much more than we expected.

Susan’s rental home, Eagles Nest, sits on five acres of prime waterfront.  The view of the ocean with late season whales swimming by was breathtaking. The house included an outbuilding at water’s edge (Newfoundlanders call it a shed) complete with a wood burning stove and enough chairs and space to hold a “shed party.”  We loved that shed!  Every morning we lit a fire in the stove and savored hot coffee while we watched the sea birds flying and waves crashing against the rocks.

Susan is part of a movement of Newfoundlanders who are reviving old traditions, among them shed and kitchen parties, which were famous throughout Newfoundland.  Imagine you’re back in the 1800’s and living in a town of 200 people.  There are no restaurants, movie theaters or shopping centers. The sheds and kitchens filled the void and were considered public spaces.  Friends and family gathered there with their instruments, guitars, fiddles and spoons playing until the wee hours of the morning.  Reviving that tradition, Susan hosts shed parties throughout the summer. She teaches guests how to make and play the famous Newfoundland musical instrument, the Ugly Stick.  Ugly Sticks are made from an old broom handle or piece of wood, a rubber boot is attached to the bottom, bottle caps and old tins are nailed on for sound and other items of color are added at the whim of the maker.  The Ugly Stick is played like a cymbal and is an essential part of the band. This summer, Susan will be teaching another lost art, step dancing; essential for all Newfoundland parties.

Real Regional Food
For generations Newfoundlanders fed themselves from the land and sea. With such long winters, there was no guarantee that food would be available unless it was stored long before any bad weather arrived. The ability to grow, forage, hunt or catch one’s food was fundamental for survival.

That sensibility drives the local culture. Lori McCarthy of Cod Sounds has been an important part of the culinary scene since the restaurant boom in the early 2000’s, when the oil industry came to the island. She worked as a professional cook and now owns a culinary excursion company designed to reintroduce the ways food was sourced years ago. “In Newfoundland everything was about eating, the fishing grounds fed the world and salt cod was king.” Every job and industry had its roots in foodstuff. After the birth of her children, Lori started foraging and immersed herself in books on the subject, taking the kids on walks to gather edibles. One day she showed up at one of St John’s iconic restaurants, Raymond’s, with bulrush and cattail and asked the chef “Do you have any use for this?”  He enthusiastically said “Yes, what else can you get me?” They worked together and put the foraged delicacies on the menu. In addition to foraging, Lori fishes, hunts, cooks and is happy to share the stories of food in Newfoundland.

Cod Sounds is in Avondale, an hour’s drive west from St John’s. Consider taking a class in how to make cheese or wild game sausage.  Lori’s Seashore & Fireside Cookery Excursion is a great family event. On a 3 to 4-hour trip you’ll gather edibles, split wood, build fires and cook your treasures on the beach. One of her favorite cooking techniques is heating a flat rock on an open fire and sizzling a fresh scallop on it – divine.

Refined Personal Hospitality
Even “High Tea” is unique in Newfoundland as I experienced at the Rose Manor Inn B & B in Harbour Grace, one of a handful of Victorian homes in Conception Bay North.  Judge Thomas Bennett, once Newfoundland’s Speaker of the House, built the home in 1878 using lumber and hardware from England.  I felt like I was transported to another era when I turned into the tree lined driveway and saw it for the first time.

The Inn is a family affair – like so many of the places I love on this island. Owner Erika Pardy and her son, Chef Tanner, will positively enchant you.  When I arrived for lunch, Erika sat us by a bay window looking out on the harbor. We sipped our tea and slowly I started to feel I was in a different time – without cares or concerns.  Her place settings were exquisite. As a food stylist and admirer of all things related to tabletop, I was impressed by her collection of cups, saucers, linens, silver and china from all around the world.  I almost felt like I was visiting a dear friend. It became clear why Erika gave up her life elsewhere to manage the Inn – it’s because she loves engaging guests while providing a gorgeous setting and creating memories for a lifetime.

Chef Tanner prepared a glorious lunch of roasted tomato soup, finger sandwiches and stuffed cherry tomatoes. We were then served desserts high tea style with scones made with local blue and partridge berries accompanied by homemade bakeapple jam (bakeapples are actually berries that grow in colder climates).  You’ll want to make a reservation for it or for one of their famous Mystery Dinners or Pirate Tours.

There are just 5 lovely rooms here, each with an ensuite bathroom and either queen or king bed. The S.S. Kyle includes a queen and twin bed, perfect for a small family.  The Rose Room is the 5-star suite, complete with fireplace, chandeliers, harbor views, and a king bed.  I’d never seen a hotel room like that on the island!  It’s perfect for a bridal suite or to fulfill your Downton Abbey dreams.
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