Normandy Celebrates Anew – A Visitor’s Roadmap

Suffice it to say there will be no shortage of visitors to Normandy this summer … what with an 80^th year anniversary D-Day celebration the likes of which the region had probably not seen for at least five years thanks to the COVID travel interruption and its aftermath. On a recent first time visit to this multi-faceted destination in the north of France, our tour guide informed us that Normandy was the number #1 destination for US visitors, obviously a result of it being the site of the D-Day beaches. It probably won’t surprise many that World War II still fascinates American tourists.  With warm breezes cooling the bright sunny May weather, we began our trek on a high-speed train from Paris’ Gare St. Lazare to Caen, an ancient city we knew absolutely nothing about. 

We decided on Caen as our hub as its strategic geographic position within earshot of many of Normandy’s famous towns and villages made it a likely launch pad for day trips and excursions.  And with that as a base plan, we picked up a rental car at the train station with the idea to visit Bayeux, gateway to Omaha Beach, the historic World War II beachhead and the neighboring sights. Then east to Deauville, Trouville, Honfleur and finally in the opposite direction to St. Malo and the medieval island of Mont Saint-Michel, with its awe-inspiring Gothic abbey the goal of our grand plan.

Often you try to follow an itinerary and you’re thwarted as you make your way.  But this one worked!  Bayeux was a mere 15 kilometers from Caen. We hopped on the highway and were there in 20 minutes. Its primary attraction, the Bayeux Tapestry, fascinated us as we listened to the historic tale of William the Conqueror, the first Norman king of England, hero of the Norman Conquest and the father of Normandy.  St. Malo was an hour and 45 minutes west from Caen, a must visit romantic walled city on the English Channel that’s a fantastic pit stop enroute to Mont Saint-Michel. These 2 memorable destinations can be experienced in a single day.  We had a fantastic lunch in St. Malo, sampling the renowned oysters from the region, then spent the rest of the afternoon at the famous abbey of Mont Saint-Michel that’s right out of a Disney film. 

Many of the typical towns, both large and small, are to the East of Caen and some of them are notable for the half-timbered houses lining the village streets. We chose to tour Deauxville and Trouville, an easy forty-five minutes’ drive one afternoon, then next day headed to Honfleur, Monet’s stomping ground, in the same direction but a little further.  These turned out to be perfect choices … the faded glamor of Deauville and Trouville somewhat cinematic and the charismatic market harbor and winding streets of Honfleur a painter’s dream. As we shopped the all-day market around the harbor before lunch I kept wondering where Monet had set up his easel. I learned later that the entire region was a moveable feast for the artist but I think we staked out a space for him next to the sailboats.

While touring around was key to our stay, we were lucky to have stayed at Hotel Ivan Vautier, a 5-star boutique property on the outskirts of Caen.  The hotel (and Ivan himself) has gained notoriety thanks to the Michelin starred designation of his restaurant, located off the lobby. The six course balanced menu for 128 Euro is a steal and the imaginative cuisine is served in small portions to make you discover his culinary expertise.  I am not easily won over but I know I swooned over several of his dishes. Should you decide to add the wine pairing of 5 exceptional pours for 46 Euro, you will (as we did) sleep on a cloud.  Never have I understood the Michelin star designation until this meal. The experience will not be forgotten.

Last, but not least, the beaches and the D-Day experience were a separate course of discovery and examination. You enter the Omaha Beach site at Pointe du Hoc where the bunkers are situated.  It sits atop a high hill overlooking the sea away from the beach.  Buses of schoolchildren were parading over the hills and mounds when we arrived. A ten-minute drive from there found the expanse of pink sand, empty save for a few locals enjoying the amazing weather.  It exuded peace and a kind of foreboding too, its history speaking for itself. Not exactly vast, it was hard to imagine how all the troops fit into the tight space of it.  

Later, upon gazing at the American Cemetery another few minutes away by car, we wondered whether any of the original troops that landed on Omaha Beach were still alive now, 80 years later. Fast forward a few weeks from then to early June and I learned about the special 80^th Anniversary D-Day celebration and the mission that American Airlines had sponsored to send the 66 surviving soldiers to relive their landing on French soil in 1944.  It was hard to believe that many of the men were over 100 years old.  And so it is. Perhaps it was the magic of Normandy that saved them, who knows?

If it’s possible to arrange even a quick visit to Normandy soon, do it. The power of its past consumes it and it will you, too!

How to Plan It:

You can’t beat being chauffeured around to the many Normandy sights. Nothing is that close and much of the backstory provided you haven’t heard. *Our guide Gwen was practically a walking history book of the region.

HQ Tour Company 33 2 50 5055 0074
www.hqcompanytour.co
gwenael.pierre@live.fr
contact@hqcompanytour.com