Offbeat Lodging in the Loire Valley

Can one tire of chateaus? That’s the question you ask yourself as you crisscross the Loire Valley, stopping to gawk at the legendary domiciles of French kings and the aristocracy. Invariably though, at the end of the day, most visitors to the region retire to (you guessed it) a chateau. But the Loire is not only about chateaus (just ask the area’s winemakers) and its lodgings shouldn’t be either. Two new options have opened recently and they’re as far away from an antique filled chateau as you can get.

Art Hotel

Overlooking the Loire River in Rochecorbon, a few kilometers east of Tours, the Art Hotel counts as a most surprising chateau re-do. Where you might expect history and antiques, instead you find sleek modern interiors and a sophisticated city vibe. Tucked into the base of a cliff, the building has lived many lives since the late 19^th century when it belonged to one Madame Tonnelle, the wife of a general. Some years later, it became a retirement home then fell into disrepair. After a complete overhaul, the emphasis now is on ultra-modern design and conveniences and there’s nary an antique in sight.

The turn off is easy to miss as you zip along the quai in the direction of Amboise. Take the sharp left, avoiding the stately gates, then zigzag up the forested hill. Pray no one is barreling downwards while you ascend as the road affords little room for passing vehicles. You’ll emerge on a plateau, the chateau looming above you. By day, it appears dignified, even demure, by night it’s bathed in soft pink, revealing another side altogether.

The interiors are a study in contrasts, predominantly black and white. Past the reception, a series of rooms unfolds, two lounges and a third reserved for breakfast. The first lounge is fitted out in head to toe white, with plentiful leather furniture for reclining (it is a lounge after all) while the second flips the switch to all black and adds a welcoming fireplace.  Did I mention each room has a bar? Undoubtedly, the most important part of the preamble for lounging.

Likewise, look for edgy accommodations. Your room will even glow at night if you leave the embedded floor light on, though I found it highly distracting viewing pulsing colors every few seconds. Unless you’re in a party mode, of course. The bath is sleek with lots of shiny surfaces like glass and tile, while the bedroom has a large king bed with leather headboard, a giant flat screen T.V. (no surprise) and ample closet space. This is a chateau after all and built during a time when closets didn’t exist. Amenities include comfy robes and the ubiquitous French toiletries. There are some annex rooms in a separate building but if at all possible opt for the main chateau, remember you’re in “Chateauville”.

Domaine de Montcy Guest House

If you’re here to enjoy the wines, a completely different option places the emphasis squarely on the region’s storied winemaking tradition. Several years ago, a gutsy Italian woman named Laura Semeria purchased a somewhat neglected winery called Domaine de Montcy. In the realm of off the wall life decisions, the spunky Italian undertook a fool’s mission (while the locals laughed hardily) converting the property first to organic then biodynamic practices.

But Laura didn’t stop at ridding the vineyards of pesticides and enlarging its buildings. Last winter, she opened a two room guest cabin right in the middle of the vineyards which sleeps up to four guests and has a full kitchen, making it the ideal refuge for a couple or small family. Measuring 345 square feet (32 square meters), the comfortable all wooden abode features large windows that flood the rooms with light.

Here you are at one with the land and the modern world fades away – the vines envelop you in their earthy embrace and there’s no Wi-Fi lifeline to the 21^st century. Climb the steps and you find a green roof and terrace with expansive views of the vineyards. In the distance, a church bell tolls as it has for centuries. Feel like helping out in the vineyard? Laura can always use an extra set of hands. Or just discover the vines on your own, following the signs that identify the various grapes growing in the vineyards.

Our favorite part?  After a day of visiting those memorable maisons like Chateau de Cheverny, you’ll unwind in the sauna or soak in the Jacuzzi right outside the door. You can gaze at the stars above with a chilled bottle of Sancerre long into the night.

By the way, the answer is no, you can’t tire of chateaus. But that doesn’t mean you need to sleep in one.