Okemo Valley, Off The Slopes

I have so many fond memories of Okemo Valley, many of which naturally involve skiing.  This winter wonderland boasts some of the best ski trails with long, cruising runs as well as snow tubing, ice skating, snowmobiling and every other activity for a perfect winter getaway.  However, since one of my kids is a devout non-skier, it hadn’t been on the radar for a family vacation.  So, when given an opportunity to revisit recently, we took it as a fun challenge to see what else there was to do off the slopes and not in the middle of winter. Boy, were we surprised.

Located under five hours from New York City in south-central Vermont, the Okemo Valley comprises seven towns, each with their own appeal and character; Andover with its local artisans, Weston with its picturesque village green, the trout fishing and hiking trails of Cavendish, Ludlow’s fine restaurants, Plymouth’s historic sites, the small villages of Mount Holly and the beautiful architecture of Chester. Each will charm you with idyllic settings amidst rolling rivers and valleys, all set against the backdrop of the magnificent Green Mountains, breathtaking whether snowcapped or sporting a rainbow of autumnal colors.

We started our little road trip by stepping back in time driving along scenic Route 100 into Weston, the entire village on The National Register of Historic Places.  Home to The Weston Playhouse and the famous Weston Priory, a Benedictine monastery, its highlight (at least for us) was definitely the famous Vermont Country Store.  We’ve been ordering authentic goodies from their popular catalog for years, but to actually visit the store is an unforgettable experience.  Part epicurean emporium with a side trip down memory lane, one could spend hours here sampling local cheeses, syrups and spreads and regressing to childhood days playing with the many favorite toys (Tinker toys or Miss Beasley ring a bell?) while sampling the penny candy assortment. It’s enough to let loose the kid in all of us.

Still owned and operated by the Orton family, they have refreshingly held fast to old-fashioned values and pride themselves on being “Purveyors of The Practical and Hard-To-Find”.  They’ve even rescued a few popular consumer brands from obscurity, like “Gee Your Hair Smells Terrific” shampoo and Tangee lipstick.   The aisles are filled with soaps, candles, country clothing and obscure products like a “snore ring”.  There’s even a farm scale museum and if you look up at the rafters, you’ll see antique shoes, sleds, signs and other treasures.

With all the delicious samples to try, make sure you save room for lunch or dinner at The Bryant House next door, which features homemade dishes like their famous Bryant House Chicken Pot Pie and Mildred Orton’s original Gingerbread, which can also be purchased in a can (!) at The General Store.  The original home, built in 1827, has a memorial bedroom upstairs with furnishings exactly as they were over a hundred years ago, and an elaborate antique soda fountain in the bar.

We left Weston with both our stomachs and our shopping bags full.

The trip was full of more delightful discoveries but then the real test began… we were heading to Okemo Mountain Resort with no plans to ski.  No problem. Actually, our bigger challenge quickly became what to do first.

Since my last visit here, the ski area had been transformed into a world-class resort with family fun galore no matter what time of year.  Of course, the winter playground has 119 trails but we enjoyed the snow tubing, ice skating and snowshoeing and even visited the “Bigloo”(big igloo).  The four-season resort also has two 18-hole golf courses, an adventure zone with mini-golf and disc golf, indoor swimming, zip lining, a bungee trampoline and a year round mountain coaster.

I admit that the area never looks more charming than when it’s covered with snow; it’s kind’ve like a walking advertisement for Winter in America.  But there’s definitely a lot to look forward to as soon as the snow thaws.  When “muddy season” begins so does maple sapping:  an interesting process to view with many of the sugarhouses scheduling special events, tours and tastings.  You must try the local seasonal treat, “Sugar on Snow”, which is basically a maple syrup snow cone, followed by a pickle.  Don’t ask, just do it!  Another local delicacy is maple crème; a maple flavored ice cream confection that’s divine.

Second to winter ski season, the most popular time to visit Vermont is for fall foliage viewing.  The Okemo Valley goes all out showing its colors, a visual symphony of orange, red and green which can be enjoyed all throughout the valley. One of my favorite vantage points is in the hill town of Plymouth Notch, birthplace and boyhood home of President Calvin Coolidge. The place is virtually unchanged, looking much like it did when then his father, a notary public, swore in his son, Vice President Calvin Coolidge, as the 30th President of the United States in 1923.

The historic site includes the Coolidge family home as well as the village church, general store, post office and cemetery where Coolidge is buried along with The Plymouth Cheese Factory, still making cheese using the original 1890 recipe.  Upstairs is an exhibit on the history of Vermont cheese making with original factory equipment and downstairs you can watch the cheese being made.

The Coolidge Museum features a multimedia interactive exhibition highlighting Coolidge’s life and career, with his own quotes as well as personal objects including some presidential gifts of state.

During the summer, the entire area offers scenic hiking and biking, horseback riding, fishing, kayaking all amidst the magnificent Vermont countryside.

Anyone who’s traveled even a little bit through New England will admit that there’s something downright nurturing about staying at a charming Bed & Breakfast. Okemo Valley is full of them with warm hosts, comfy beds and home- made breakfasts featuring local delicacies.  No continental breakfast with lukewarm coffee and toast here!  These folks are too darn proud of their local bounty to not share it with guests.   Some inns are not as family friendly but quite a few not only welcome kids but cater to them, offering puzzles, board games and fresh baked cookies to make them feel at home.

The Andre Rose Inn in Ludlow even allows dogs, and guests are usually greeted by the innkeepers’ friendly pooch.  This inn had lovely Victorian rooms and the host has a special talent… Irene Maston is a celebrated chef and the author of the award-winning Irene’s Cakes By Design.   They offer gourmet dinners on the weekend that rival any fancy New York City eatery.   A stone’s throw from Okemo Mountain, the location is perfect for either skiing or a leisurely stroll into town.

The charming village of Chester, named one of the prettiest “Painted Places” in America, is a wonderful place to stay, shop and stroll.  A must-stop is for tea at the famous Inn Victoria — this elegant Bed & Breakfast is a gem… each room lovingly restored and furnished with exquisite antiques reflecting a different style and ambience.  No detail has been spared, from imported Italian soaps in the baths to luxurious sheets and lush robes. The romantic inn is a couple’s paradise and a popular choice for intimate weddings and getaways.  In fact, if you peek into the closet of one of the more popular “honeymoon suites”, you will find a makeshift tribute to romance, where many happy couples have signed their names, recording their special moments. Even if you don’t stay overnight, you must experience their famous High Tea.  Guests personally choose their teapot and cup from an extensive and eclectic antique collection and enjoy assorted savories and sweets, all accompanied by a selection of over 30 varieties of fine teas from around the world.

In nearby Proctorsville, The Golden Stage Inn offers a real down-home family experience.   Located in a former stagecoach stop, this historic building was reportedly a stop on the Underground Railroad.  Now a Bed & Breakfast featuring a “bottomless cookie jar” and a small farm complete with babbling brook, chickens and sheep, guests can actually view bees making honey.  It’s over the top cozy and makes guests and their family really feel a part of the farm.  Rumored to have a ghost, we thankfully saw no sign of him, just a sunny, welcoming home with a hearty homemade breakfast.

Did I mention that Okemo Valley is a food-lovers delight? In between the award winning cheeses, fresh maple syrup, and heavenly maple creams, a bike ride or hike seems mandatory.  Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to burn calories while getting in touch with nature the way it should be, without shopping centers and super highways. Okemo offers a perfect combination of down-home charm, historic sites, outdoor adventure and epicurean delights to please everyone, all year round.

We felt we’d been away forever, far away from the stress of modern life. And no skiing was required.