On Safari, Solo

What if my shuttle driver isn’t there to pick me up?

What if I can’t make friends?

Would the camp be safe?

These were some of the thoughts running through my head as I waited for my bags at the tiny Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport. While I was excited about my upcoming African safari on the Manyeleti Game Reserve outside of Kruger National Park, I was also a little nervous about being on my own. I had no idea what to expect on a safari in general, let alone being all by myself and female. I relaxed a bit when I saw a driver from Summit Tours holding a sign with my name on it. Phew! I wouldn’t be stranded in the middle of nowhere. My driver passed the time on the 2 hour ride to the camp by giving me a narrated tour of the area.

Once through the gate after paying the necessary fees (entry fee R70 each way and one time gate fee of R30) and signing the entrance paperwork, I was taken to the reception of Honeyguide Tented Safari Camps to meet my safari leader, who’d transport me to where I’d stay. The other safari-goers were eating lunch. Despite butterflies in my stomach about meeting the group and the whole experience itself, as soon as I sat down to join them I realized I was worrying for nothing. While I’ve traveled extensively on my own, I never considered doing a South African safari solo. Come to think of it, I’d never even heard of anyone attempting it. Well, I’m here to report that a solo safari is not only do-able, it can easily become one of your most memorable travel experiences, especially if you are a first timer solo traveler.

I think a major draw for the experience is the logistics. I remember post teens backpacking around Europe and how much effort went into planning the lodging, activities and transportation; with a safari once you book your accommodation, everything else is taken care of, including meals and itineraries. All you really need to worry about is what to pack — insect repellent, flashlight and layers – and of course transportation from the airport.

For the most part, all the lodges have the same basic itinerary:  One early morning game drive with a stop for tea, one late afternoon game drive with a stop for cocktails and snacks, three multi-course meals, and an afternoon bush walk. In between these activities you have free time to do as you please, meaning you’ll be spending a lot of your time with the other guests but will also have your own space. You don’t have to worry about making friends, as you’ll become close with your travel companions effortlessly over long meals with local wines and through the shared experience of seeing the exotic wildlife. Additionally, with Honeyguide at least, there are just 12 Nehru styled tents and only two safari jeeps ensuring groups stay intimate and everyone gets a clear view of the wildlife.

In terms of the fear factor at the camp, I admit the first night can be a challenge, but not in the way I’d thought. While I expected lions, leopards and hungry wild dogs at every turn, the truth is most animals in the bush stay away when they smell humans. According to one guide, Vaughan, the camp has never had a lion so much as go up on the tent decks, and the reserve has never had a wild dog attack a human (most of the time they’ll just sniff and lick you like a domesticated dog). That being said, you will hear many unfamiliar bush noises — lions growling, elephants feeding, impalas running, monkeys swinging – which can be unsettling at first. By the second night I was used to it and slept fine.

As for costs, there’s no getting around the fact you pay a large chunk of change upfront. For example, at Honeyguide Tented Safari Camps prices start at $325 per night. While this might sound steep, keep in mind this includes three guided tours per day, snacks, drinks, three multi-course meals prepared by a trained chef and comfortable accommodations with plush bedding, and en-suite bathroom with tub and shower, a desk, small closet and chest. A bare bones hotel room in an urban location with few amenities can easily cost just as much. When it was all added up, I came to the conclusion that a South African safari is a great deal that requires little planning other than transportation. Be sure to check with your travel agent or the lodge directly if there is a single travel supplement fee you would have to pay, as these can very expensive. If the lodge asks for one, look elsewhere.

By nature, solo travelers tend to have a strong sense of adventure and love having eye-opening encounters. I can’t think of a more thrilling experience than immersing yourself in the animal kingdom, getting up close and personal with predators and educating yourself on important issues. What surprised me on the safari was that it was more than just taking photographs of the Big Five; it was seeing how a pack of lions feasts on one buffalo carcass for days, how giraffes will keep watch for a pack of zebra, how when an elderly wildebeest gets kicked out of its herd, it will try to blend in with the impalas, how leopards can drag prey heavier than their body weight into a tree, how female buffalo herds retaliate when a group member is attacked, how an elephant sucks in up to 6 liters (1. 5 gallons) of water with its trunk. I witnessed with my own eyes how species interacted to survive from day to day, a fascinating lesson I’ll never forget.

The guides working at Honeyguide Tented Safari Camps were excellent. There wasn’t a question they couldn’t answer, no bird they couldn’t identify, no animal they couldn’t track. Each was very personable, becoming like family by the end of my short stay.