The sparkling star trailing the word “Riviera” in the Riviera Hotel’s exterior signage said it all. This was a place where your inner star can shine. I was back in the hedonistic desert city of Palm Springs (move over Las Vegas) after an absence of 20 years and as I rounded the circular driveway of the property past a splashing fountain, my eyes widened. Cruising under the shaded porte cochere and out of the red hot sun, I gazed at the expansive glass facade fronting the lobby where flaming orange floor to ceiling decorative panels hung. Shiny white patent leather round banquettes piped with orange and crowned with ornate gold candelabra met me through the doors. Was the ghost of Liberace about to cruise in playing a grand piano? The retro-fab lobby, a zany remix of 60’s influences, reeked of over the top glamour and up a short flight of stairs I found the Arcade Lounge where the playground went into overdrive. Guatemalan coin art crafted into portraits of Old Hollywood royalty hung on the walls and seating in a myriad of shapes offered a moment of cool repose and a chance to sit and take in the crowd. This wasa space where Liberace would have felt right at home, maybe even grabbing a cue stick himself and working over the rhinestone studded pooltable. But this was Palm Springs, not Vegas, right? Frank Sinatra, Dinah Shore, Bob Hope and yes, Liberace’s stomping ground, once the fabled playground of the Hollywood elite, lately a mecca for spunky retirees and in the know gays past their prime.
In fact, I waited well over a year for this moment and I was excited. I’d been following the Renaissance of Palm Spring for awhile and the fabulosity didn’t end at the Riviera. It’s where it started. The hotel was crowned Palm Springs’ go-to spot for celebrities and sophisticates in 1959 when it opened and I heard more than once that the choice of the color orange was because it was Frank’s favorite. Be that as it may, it was a fitting foil for the lush green landscapes and towering San Jacinto Mountains all around Palm Springs. This is a place that embraces nature because it has no choice. Sheltered by mountains on three sides, it’s known for 354 days of sunshine and less than six inches of rain with temperatures averaging in the 70’s in winter with a push to the 100’s in summer, a sun lover’s paradise. Who can argue with that? Not me, I’m crazy for hot sunny days. The desert city, one of seven distinctly different towns in the region known as Greater Palm Springs, lies on the western edge of the Coachella Valley about a 2 hour drive give or take from L.A. and a little bit longer from San Diego. It’s a place to get your weekend personality pumped.
Beyond the weekend groove, though, which begs to be experienced, Palm Springs hints at a new age lifestyle, one that has its roots in the past but is still evolving, a good 5 or more years after its rebirth began. Take the Palm Springs Follies, for example. You’ve heard of the Follies but did you know they’re still alive and kicking? Imagine the Golden Girls (and Boys, if that’s possible) on steroids, can you? The Follies promises the most fun you can have in Palm Springs and they’re not far from the mark especially after watching Mat Plendl, the world’s greatest hula-hoop artist. I think my smile was pasted from ear to ear for the entire 10 minutes he was performing. Cirque du Soleil, look out! About to close its 22nd season at the historic Plaza Theater on Palm Canyon Drive, the Follies are a fitting introduction to the glories of being “past your prime” as the expression goes. Watching the incredibly talented troupe of dancers and singers, with ages ranging from 54 to 83 with most in their 70’s, bringing back the Golden Age of Broadway and vaudeville, you’re reminded of how good life is in the desert. OK, who knew?
Well, for sure the film community did. Since Hollywood’s heyday, Palm Springs has been a haven for stressed out starlets and a secret trysting place for celebrity power couples. That still applies to today but the scenic desert playground has expanded its appeal to nature lovers, too. If you’re into the great outdoors there are rolling golf greens, hiking and cycling trails and surreal desert terrain for inspiring power walking (with fresh air to breathe) but if your lifestyle leans more toward laid back luxury there’s a fabulous spa culture, hot nightlife and awesome shopping, especially for mid-century modern home furnishings. Between the outdoor activities and a thriving social scene the town is a treasure trove of Fifties-era desert architecture that’s spawned a whole sub-culture of its own with events throughout the year. It’s the perfect place to burn calories while partying with friends and discovering why the celebrities came in droves. Plus, the annual Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival in nearby Indio, held every year in April, has become a Mecca for anyone wanting to make the scene with emerging musical artists.
“In Palm Springs people let their guard down,” according to Michael Stern, who ought to know. An East Coast transplant and self-professed devout convert to the desert lifestyle, Michael has taken the modern architecture here to heart. With numerous examples of “desert modernism” sprinkled around Palm Canyon Drive, the town’s main drag, Michael enjoys riffing on what made each one unique. His private tours of the homes of the rich and famous include the humble pad of Old Blue Eyes and Elvis and Priscilla’s Honeymoon Hideaway. And then there’s the loudly alternative modern structures present in the surrounding area exhibited best in places like the Snow Creek Village artists’ colony where the 1963 rotating D’Angelo House, which takes just 15 seconds to complete a 130 degree turn, shakes a fist at convention.
And that’s just one of the reasons why Palm Springs’ DNA is so special, luring a whopping 1.6 million visitors in 2012. Even if you’re more inclined to day tripping than weekending, you’ll have no problem understanding its allure after a stop at the Palm Springs Visitor Center, sitting at the entrance to town. The fabulous structure, the former Tramway Gas Station built in 1965 by visionary Swiss architect, Albert Frey, contains a slew of memorabilia for purchase and serves as the gateway to the Aerial Tramway. As you ascend to the summit, having traveled through five different temperate zones along 2 ½ miles to the top of Mount San Jacinto at an 8,500 feet elevation, you’ll realize why everyone falls head over heels in love here. The 360 degree view will take your breath away.
More than merely letting your guard down, in Palm Springs the environment is a catalyst for accepting change just like its climate. We can only guess how taken Marilyn Monroe must have been with the beauty and stillness of the landscape when she put down roots here in the 50’s after being famously discovered at Charlie Farrell’s Racquet Club. A 26 foot tall sculpture, “Forever Marilyn”, perched at the corner of Palm Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon Roads in downtown Palm Springs, is a magnet for tourists and a constant reminder to charge your star power batteries while you’re here. You’ll leave inspired and with that gut wrenching feeling that you have to go back again.
www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com
The area code for Palm Springs is 760.
Where to Stay:
Riviera Palm Springs – A hedonistic paradise with over the top décor, a pool scene that rivals any in Vegas and super-sized bath suites with gigantic double soaking tubs. Kitschy bordello chic furnishings lend a romantic air to the rooms, all with private patios or balconies. Be sure to ask to face the cinematic mountains. 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-327-8311; www.psriviera.com
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Riviera Pool[/caption]
The Parker – As designer of both public and private spaces, Jonathan Adler’s creative vision here, one of articulated exuberance, has put the Parker on everyone’s wish list. Densely landscaped grounds on the former Gene Autry estate give it a jungle feel and all accommodations, either patio room, suite or estate villa come with an amenities tray that will knock your socks off. 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-770-5000; www.parkerpalmsprings.com
The Willows – An exclusive private hideaway and historic desert landmark, this romantic Mediterranean villa is built into the bedrock of Mt. San Jacinto. Said to be the honeymoon retreat for Clark Gable & Carole Lombard, it has just 8 rooms, each with its own unique personality. Looking for privacy? This is your place. 412 West Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs; 800-966-9597; www.thewillowspalmsprings.com
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Image by O’Don Photos[/caption]
The Saguaro – A bold Southwestern color palette reflecting the indigenous flowers of the Colorado desert welcomes guests to this brand new three-story property (originally from 1965) which features an expansive pool within a lush center courtyard and Tinto, an innovative restaurant run by celebrity chef Jose Garces. 1800 East Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-323-1711; www.jdvhotels.com/hotels/riverside/saguaro_palmsprings/guestrooms
Where to Eat:
Workshop Kitchen + Bar – This is Palm Springs’ newest gem, installed in a historic space in the heart of the Uptown Design District with farm to table new American fare and a classic cocktail bar. Foodies, this is your new temple. Chef Michael Beckman’s soaring garage-like industrial chic environs are the perfect setting for new American cuisine with just the right amount of character. 800 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite G, Palm Springs; 760-459-3451; www.workshoppalmsprings.com
Circa 59 – Diana Vreeland would have loved this place; it’s a kaleidoscope of decoration. Blood red Baccarat chandeliers, chairs and banquettes throughout the dining room signal a real red connection and the light-up menus are practically playthings. Chef Aaron Burns’ lamb pot roast is a winner. Riviera Palm Springs Hotel, 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-778-6659; www.psriviera.com
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Riviera’s Circa-59-firepit[/caption]
Le Vallauris – Celebrating its 40th anniversary, this exquisite French jewel was the first Palm Springs restaurant to receive the AAA Four-Diamond designation. Executive Chef John Paul Lair’s extraordinary French Mediterranean cuisine served beneath the stars in a magical garden setting is an unforgettable experience. 385 West Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs; 760-325-5059; www.levallauris.com
Norma – Sit outside on the patio and revel in the bucolic atmosphere (not the norm for Palm Springs) while enjoying crispy fish tacos and the rock lobster and mango salad. 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-770-5000; www.parkerpalmsprings.com
Lulu California Bistro – Palm Springs’ hippest restaurant. 200 So. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-327-5858; www.lulupalmsprings.com
Kaiser Grille – In the heart of downtown Palm Springs, this casual restaurant with a cool patio offers a full menu with entrée salads, wood fired pizzas and an unbeatable Happy Hour. 205 So. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-323-1003; www.restaurantsofpalmsprings.com
Where to Drink:
Trio – Happy hour gets going here and if you have one too many, the modern American cuisine will get you back on your path for the night. 707 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-865-8746; www.triopalmsprings.com
The Amigo Room at Ace Hotel – A hip and trendy scene that’s a walk on the wild side. 701 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-325-9900; www.acehotel.com
Sidebar – With an inventive line-up of hand crafted libations and live music Thursday through Sunday, this sophisticated nightspot is the perfect place to mingle in Palm Springs. Riviera Palm Springs Hotel, 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-778-6659; www.psriviera.com
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Riviera’s Side Bar interior[/caption]
The Village Pub – Get to know the locals! Three bars to keep you going all night long and nightly entertainment 7 nights a week. www.palmspringsvillagepub.com
Escena Lounge – Kick back with a few Bloody Marys here before Sunday brunch and enjoy the oasis on the country club’s drop-dead gorgeous grounds. 1100 Clubhouse View, Palm Springs; 760-992-0002; www.escenagrill.com
Melvyn’s – If you want to channel the retro spirit of Palm Springs, this is the place. 200 Ramon Road, Palm Springs; 760-325-2323; www.inglesideinn.com
Where to Shop:
Trina Turk – This is a resort town, remember? You’ll need some stylish duds and this is the place to get them. 891 No. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-416-2856; www.trinaturk.com/boutique/palm-springs
What to See & Do:
Palm Springs Visitors Center – You can’t miss a stop at this landmark former gas station, the structure a stunning example of the desert modernism style. It’s the first thing on the road entering Palm Springs and is chock full of information both present and past on the destination. 2901 No. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 760-778-8418; www.vacationpalmsprings.com
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway – Roughly a 15 minute steep ascent up the San Jacinto Mountains and by far the most popular tourist attraction, the panoramic view of the Coachella Valley at the top is awesome. Spend the day hiking and picnicking here enjoying nature. The entrance is a short drive up the mountain from the Visitors Center. 1 Tram Way, off Highway 111, 6 miles from downtown Palm Springs. 760-325-1391; www.pstramway.com
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Palm Spring Aerial Tramway[/caption]
Forever Marilyn – You can’t miss this Marilyn (if she could only see herself now). Standing at 26 feet tall, the Seven Year Itch representation is something for the record books. Hurry, she’s leaving June, 2013. Corner of Palm Canyon Drive and Tahquitz Canyon Way in downtown PS.
The Palm Springs Follies – What? You’ve never seen a 77 year-old showgirl before? In its 22nd season wowing audiences, the Follies prove that growing old in the right place with the right people makes a big difference. These retirees are hoofing it like kids! Historic Plaza Theater, 128 South Palm Canyon Road, Palm Springs; 760-327-0225; www.psfollies.com
The Modern Tour – Michael Stern is one impressive authority on desert modernism. Take a private, customized tour with him of the amazing collection of mid-century modern architecture. Catch Frank Sinatra’s cool pad and Elvis and Priscilla’s Honeymoon Hideaway. 760-904-0904; www.themoderntour.com
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The Kaufmann House[/caption]
Indian Canyons Hike – Channel your inner native and get out on one of the surreal trails on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. Don’t forget the agua! Entrance off South Palm Canyon Drive out of Palm Springs. 760-323-6018; www.indian-canyons.com
The Spa at Spa Resort Casino – I know, it’s just another spa but you’re going to “Take the Waters,” a 10 minute soak in therapeutic mineral waters from the underground spring. Trust me; you’ll need this after the hike. 100 North Indian Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; 888-999-1995; www.sparesortcasino.com/spa.html