How many articles have been written about Paris? Hundreds of course, thousands probably, hundreds of thousands most likely… it’s the City of Light, a city of laughter, a city of love and romance. But for many people, it’s also a city of enlightenment. The home of the Lost Generation, many famous American literary figures sought refuge and comfort in the warm arms of Paris after the first World War, making Paris a gold mine for literary history.
Being what you might call a “bookworm,” to put it nicely (although it wasn’t always put so nicely back in middle school), I was ecstatic when my husband agreed to Paris for our summer vacation. But, of course, between visiting family and researching my article, could it really be a vacation? Simply put: yes. When in France, full-time work is considered 35 hours per week, lunch is about two hours and always includes a spirit or two, and mandatory paid vacation for workers is a minimum of two weeks. I was in heaven.
For nearly any Paris sojourn, there are must-see trips to the Louvre, Versailles and Notre Dame. But to get a real taste of Paris besides what you’ve heard in history class, spend an evening on Rue Cler. You can walk to the picturesque street from the Eiffel Tower or hop on the metro to École Militaire. Café hopping is a must here, where the crowded and smoke-filled hotspots get better with each stop. I especially love Café du Marché, on perhaps one of the best corners in Paris for people-watching. After an evening of Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Burgundy, fromage and jambon, take a leisurely walk west on Rue de Grenelle towards the Eiffel Tower. You’ll find French youths lounging and conversing on the lawn, and follow their lead – it’s a lovely way to spend an evening (if you can find a quiet spot!).
Once the museums were over, I carved the last two days of our trip out for the under-appreciated and less-visited spots in Paris that were of interest to my inner “dork.” Of course, for my favorite way to see Paris, all you need is a credit card. Stop by any of the many Vélib bike share stations on the streets of the city and swipe away. A deposit will be held on your card, but all it will really cost you is €1 for a one day pass or €5 for a one week pass. (Tip: All European credit cards are accepted, but right now only American Express cards are accepted from Americans.) The day passes are best, as the many bike stations around the city make them ideal for quick trips. In true European fashion, bikes come equipped with baskets perfect for bottles of wine and baguettes you may pick up around the city.
Our first stop (after getting bikes, of course) was for coffee at La Belle Hortense to get us in the right frame of mind. This lovely little café is located in the Marais, which is widely known to be the most literary neighborhood in Paris. This café sells books of all sorts, and you can also borrow them while you slowly sip a latte or glass of champagne. Those fluent in French would be interested to know La Belle Hortense regularly holds book signings, readings and lectures Tuesdays through Thursdays at about 8 pm. Not for beginners – tourists aren’t too welcome if they can’t communicate.
Once finished at the book bar, we hopped on our bikes and headed just over the Seine to the Shakespeare and Company bookstore in the Latin Quarter. The bookstore, which operates under the saying, “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be angels in disguise,” is famously friendly to visitors and fully staffed with English-speakers. Established in 1951, the bookstore looks much older than it truly is. George Whitman, an American, founded it while taking French classes and delaying his return to America after World War II. The bookstore rapidly started attracting both established writers and new talent, and was frequently a hangout (and occasional home for a night or two) for such names as Henry Miller, Anäis Nin, Alan Ginsberg, Lawrence Durrell and James Baldwin. Most books sold in the store are in English… and keep your eye out: It’s not uncommon to thumb through a book and find it has been signed by the author and sitting around for years, unnoticed. It’s easy to lose hours inside the bookstore, which also often has readings upstairs and posts upcoming events on its website.
We then peddled through the Latin Quarter to Le Panthéon. Most travelers have heard of the Pantheon, but those travelers would also be interested to know that there are two in Europe, and that the Panthéon in Paris was modeled after the far more famous Pantheon in Rome. Le Panthéon has a €7 entry fee, but what literature lovers will see is well worth the charge. After a leisurely walk through the upstairs, venture down into the burial place. Only the most honored men and women are buried here, as a gift from the country. Here, you’ll find the tombs of writers such as Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Jean-Jacques Rousseau and Émile Zola; and great thinkers such as Voltaire, Louis Pasteur and Louis Braille.
It’s not far from the Latin Quarter to climb up to Montparnasse, where dinner at La Coupole is a must. As a patron, your name will join those of such former clientele as Ernest Hemingway, Henry Miller, Josephine Baker, F. Scott Fitzgerald and many more. Disregard the typically rude wait staff and unwelcoming dining room for the delicious food and company you’ll enjoy. Once dinner is through, it’s a short bike ride to Saint Sulpice.
Saint Sulpice is well hidden in the Luxembourg Quarter and doesn’t get too many visitors in the evening, making that the best time to visit (the church is open until 7:30 pm and boasts free admission). The low light suits the mellow church extremely well, and you could easily find yourself the only person in there. It’s a nice detour from the hustle and bustle of the nearby bars and cafés. Of course, don’t expect to hear the world-famous organ at that time of night! Also, please don’t go in with your copy of The DaVinci Code in hand — the church’s staff isn’t pleased with its representation of Saint Sulpice, and is even less pleased with the number of people who bother to question the staff about the church’s role in the fictional novel.
If you’re looking for a nightcap after the church, within short walking distance is Chez Georges. This wine bar doesn’t have regular operating hours, instead opening and closing when the owners feel up to it, but it also doesn’t have tourists. Professors and students alike cram the pub at night, making it a wonderful place for stimulating conversation and the occasional history lesson.
To take a break from the walking and biking, take advantage of the vintage Métro system for the second day of literary history goodness and venture over to Père Lachaise Cemetery, one of the most famous and beautiful cemeteries in the world. Here you can pay your respects to more famous and deceased writers than you could ever imagine: Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Marcel Proust, Honoré de Balzac, Auguste Maquet, Jean de la Fontaine, and Paul Éluard just to name a few.
For a lovely end to the trip, have a fantastically French dinner across from the Louvre at Le Fumoir. Ask to be seated in the back, where the room is built to resemble a fantastic library. The food and drinks are divine and some of the best quality for the price you’ll get in the tourist-packed area. For an after-dinner drink, stroll along the evening streets to Harry’s Bar, the last stop on our literary tour. This is perhaps the most famous bar in Paris, if not in Europe, where drinks like the Bloody Mary and the Monkey Gland were invented — and where George Gershwin composed An American in Paris. Past clients include Sinclair Lewis, Ernest Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart, Coco Chanel… it’s hard not to namedrop in Paris.
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Where to Sleep
Hotel de Fleurie: 6ème arrondissement, 32-34 rue Grégoire-de-Tours, +33 01 53 73 70 00, www.hotel-de-fleurie.fr Located right in the heart of St-Germain-des-Prés on the left bank, ideally kept on a quiet street. Air-conditioning (you’ll want it!) and free wifi make this a good place to get acquainted with the streets of Paris.
Hotel du Quai Voltaire: 5ème arrondissement, 19 quai Voltaire, +33 01 42 61 50 91, www.quaivoltaire.fr This is all location, location, location! Walk to the left bank booksellers, Champs Elysée, anywhere from here. Of the 33 rooms, 28 have views of the Seine, so request a river view! Book online, the rates are much cheaper than over the phone.
Prince Albert Louvre: 2ème arrondissement, 5 rue Saint-Hyacinthe, +33 01 42 61 58 36, www.hotelprincealbert.com Located close to the Louvre and place Vendome, this budget hotel was built in the 1820s. Furnishings are classic 19th century Paris and are very charming for the price.
Standard Design Hotel Paris: 11ème arrondissement, 29 rue des Tailandiers, +33 01 48 05 30 97, www.lesrelaisdeparis.fr/en/standard-design-hotel This boutique budget hotel has the perfect balance of design, price and an uncommonly friendly staff. Close to the Marais and right off the Bastille, these rooms are fun, funky and far from traditional.
Le Relais Saint-Jacques: 7ème arrondissement, 3 rue de l’Abbé de l’Épée, +33 8 20 13 10 20, www.paris-hotel-relais-saint-jacques.com This hotel is the epitome of Parisian hotels, comfortable, stylish and traditional. Located right near the exquisite Luxembourg Gardens, this well-priced hotel has everything to offer its guests, from a library to a lounge to four poster beds. Perfect for the tourist on a budget who doesn’t want to compromise on the French experience.
Where to Eat
Le St. Augustin: 8ème arrondissement, 114 boulevard Haussman, +33 01 43 87 40 55. This small, café is in a quiet neighborhood off the Champs Elysée. They have great, affordable French café fare.
La Belle Hortense: 4ème arrondissement, 31 rue Vieille du Temple, 4e, +33 01 48 04 71 60. Lovely little wine bar, coffee shop and bookstore near the Seine in the wonderful literary Marais neighborhood. Books and wine are for sale (books can be borrowed while you enjoy a glass, too!). Open daily from 9 am until 2 am.
Chez Georges: 6ème arrondissement, 11 rue des Canettes, +33 01 43 25 36 72. Around since the 1600s and a staple in the Lost Generation era of World War I, this wine bar and café is a lively mix of seniors and students, all wonderful thinkers. The crowd usually flows into the street at night, so pick a corner to stand on and enjoy the ambiance. Closed on Sundays and some Mondays.
Le Fumoir: 1er arrondissement, 6 rue de L’Amiral de Coligny, +33 01 42 92 00 24. This café, one of many near the Louvre, stands out. For one, it’s not jammed with tourists and it also has fantastic, affordable fare and a fantastic night ambiance. If you’re there for dinner, try to request a table in the back — the back room is decorated like a cozy library. Open daily for light lunches 11 am – 2 pm, and open again for their full menu 7:30pm – 11:30pm. Open til midnight on weekends.
Café Beaubourg: 4ème arrondissement, 100 rue St-Martin, +33 01 48 87 63 96. Near the pedestrian plaza at the Pompidou Centre, this is a very trendy but moderately-priced café with fantastic minimalist decor. Great place for people watching! Open Monday through Friday 8 am – 1 am, weekends it’s open ‘til 2 am.
La Coupole: 14ème arrondissement, 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 14e, +33 01 43 20 14 20. Look past the rude waiters to the wonderful history of this café: writers and artists like Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Calder and Picasso were once staples here. Great food! Open daily from 8:30 am – 1 am.
Les Deux Magots: 6ème arrondissement, 6 place St-Germain-des-Pres, 6e, +33 01 45 48 55 25. Ignore the name (magots actually refers to Confucian wise men)- this café is legendary! It’s the ideal hangout for all the St Germain neighborhood residents. As the name implies, this was a regular refuge for great thinkers. The café opens early, so come with the rest of the patrons with a morning paper and you’ll fit right in. Open daily from 7:30 am – 1:30 am.
Le Grand Colbert: 2ème arrondissement, 2 rue Vivienne, +33 01 42 86 87 88. This classic brasserie was featured in the film Something’s Gotta Give, although that’s not its claim to fame. Locals dine here regularly to celebrate a special occasion — but Diane Keaton raving that their roast chicken is the best in Paris certainly doesn’t hurt. In the afternoon it’s quiet, but for dinner make reservations ahead of time at www.legrandcolbert.fr. Open daily until 1 am.
Café des Deux Moulins: 18ème arrondissement, 15 rue Lepic, +33 01 42 54 90 50. Another café featured in a movie, this one starred in the Academy Award nominated French film Amélie. The menu (and decor) has been left widely unchanged since the 50s, but the food is still outstanding and classic. Open daily from 7:30 am – 2 am.
Café de Flore: 6ème arrondissement, 172 boulevard St-Germain, +33 01 45 48 55 26. Although it’s expensive, Café de Flore is perhaps the most famous café in the world. Sartre (a key figure in the Resistance) wrote his famous trilogy, The Roads to Freedom, here. It’s a classic Left Bank café, riddled with tourists and decor that will never be changed. But for literary enthusiasts, it’s worth a trip. Open daily from 7:30 am – 1:30am.
Harry’s New York Bar: 2ème arrondissement, 5 rue Danou, +33 01 42 61 71 14. Perhaps one of the most famous bars in the world, the Bloody Mary, the Sidecar and the White Lady were all created here. Frequented by Ernest Hemingway, among many other famous writers after World War I. Open Tuesday – Saturday from 10 pm – 2 am.
Must See
Shakespeare & Company: 5ème arrondissement, 37 rue de la Bûcherie, +33 01 43 25 40 93. For literary enthusiasts (or anyone who likes to read) this bookstore is well worth an afternoon nose-around.
Cimetière du Père-Lachaise: 20ème arrondissement, 16 rue du Repos. +33 01 43 70 70 33. From Oscar Wilde to Gertrude Stein, this is the ultimate resting place for many respected authors and thinkers, both French and international.
Saint Sulpice: 6ème arrondissement, rue St-Sulpice, + 33 01 42 34 59 98. Often overlooked because of the other cathedrals in Paris, this church is best visited in the evening when tourists are already at dinner. Open daily from 7:30 am – 7:30 pm. Free admission