A Day in Saint Germain des Prés
There are few neighborhoods in the world as famous as Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and even fewer that have managed to maintain an elite status for as long and with as much elegance and style as this one. When I was living in Paris, I was lucky enough to live in a small apartment in a neoclassic building on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue de Rennes. An oversized blue door that still decorates the entrance to the building, between the Monoprix supermarket and the Emporio Armani store and café, was all that separated me from the wonders of Rive Gauche. This is a neighborhood I had been exploring since I was a child, and before I was born my parents honeymooned in a boutique hotel a few blocks away, and even before that my grandparents sipped coffee in Les Deux Magots. That is what makes Saint Germain so unique – the feeling that its sophisticated grace is deep rooted in the past and will continue after both you and I are gone. Timeless beauty characterizes every aspect of this Parisian corner and there is something for everyone to discover.
As an homage to one of my favorite places in the world, I’ve put together a perfect Saint Germain des Prés day, filled with food, wine, style and culture!
In the morning, a good French breakfast with croissants and some coffee can be the perfect excuse for you to begin your day watching people slowly going about their day. A good starting point is Café de Flore, once the meeting place of Parisian intellectuals and credited by many as the setting for the birth of Existentialism. Early in the morning it is usually full of faithful, local patrons enjoying a quick espresso or reading the paper sitting comfortably on the signature red leather couches of the Café. I prefer to go as early as possible in order to avoid the hoards of tourists that sometimes invade Café de Flore despite its steep prices.
For something more affordable, head a few blocks east on Boulevard Saint Germain at Odéon and have your breakfast at Néo Café. Let the record show that I am a hot chocolate devotee and this chic streetside café, known mostly for its great location and ambience, has the best in the world. Chat up the unpretentious staff while enjoying a delicious Croque Madame. Be sure to check out their wine list as you may want to return later in the afternoon for a glass of wine and more interesting conversation. What more do you need?
After you’ve enjoyed your coffee and breakfast, it’s time for some exploring! The part of Boulevard Saint Germain that spreads between Odéon and Rue de Rennes is filled with movie theaters, café-restaurants and clothing stores. The historical Saint Germain des Prés abbey is located in the middle of all the hustle bustle and it’s open every day for visitors. Turn right on Rue Bonaparte, walk past the Luis Vuitton megastore and keep going past Rue Jacob until you find yourself in a shopper’s paradise. Every store on the next two blocks seems to have been carefully placed by an eclectic hand. Taste the best French pastries of your life at the Pierre Hermé pastry boutique, or go antiquing at one of the many shops specializing in picture frames, statues, tables, chairs and even lamp-shades. One of my favorite beauty stores, Aesop Saint Germain, is on Rue Bonaparte and sells exquisite face, body and hair cosmetic products made with ingredients that smell so fresh you’ll believe they were created just for you. Originating in Australia, the Aesop brand is most famous for its unique perfumes, although personally I am obsessed with their natural face peels. Less than a block north of Aesop is the Paris school of Fine Arts, or Ecole des Beaux-arts. Don’t be afraid to explore the surrounding blocks and should you lose your direction simply head towards the river! On the corner of Rue Bonaparte and Quai Malaquais (which is the main road by the riverbank) there’s one of the city’s main Velib stations, where you can rent your own bike quickly and efficiently. In fact, the entire neighborhood is filled with Velib stations so you can pick up or drop off a bike wherever and whenever you please. All the bikes are equipped with a basket, which will serve as a convenient place to put your shopping bags when your hands need a rest.
Feeling hungry? Maybe it’s time for a light lunch. Make your way to Rue des Canettes where you will find many restaurants open for lunch (not the norm in Paris where many places are only open for dinner). My favorite lunchtime spot is La Creperie des Canettes. If you love crepes then this is the perfect place. Their extensive menu offers both sweet and savory crepes as well as other appetizers and entrees and everything is super fresh. If crepes are not your favorite dessert, head back north and turn right on Rue du Four. Past the Mabillon metro stop and across Boulevard Saint Germain is Rue de Buci, where your sweet tooth can be more than satisfied. This street is always filled with people and its various bakeries don’t disappoint. It also houses the infamous Cacao et Chocolat, one of the best chocolate shops in Paris. The theme of the boutique and its products revolves around Aztec cacao, and the staff is eager to recommend new tastes for you to experience with free samples passed around. My personal favorite on Rue de Buci is Amorino, a shop that sells Italian gelato so delicious that you’ll be lucky not to find a line outside. The best thing about Amorino is that there’s no limit on the number of flavors you can add to your treat and the staff will often shape your cone into a flower or a clown (how’s that for ingenuity?). Next door is Taschen’s flagship store, a book lover’s paradise, where incredible art books are often discounted and many of their other editions are displayed on the sidewalk outside the store so you can browse while enjoying your ice cream.
Having shopped enough, why not take a cultural stroll around the area? You’ve already passed the Saint Germain des Prés church itself but there is another important historical church a few blocks away. St Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris, with the infamous Notre Dame being the largest one, and this building was founded in the 17th century. To get there, return to Rue Bonaparte but this time walk the opposite direction than you did before (that is, south).
After visiting the church, take some time to walk another block south to one of the largest public parks in Paris, the Luxembourg Gardens. In Jardin du Luxembourg you can relax by the pond or find a bench and watch people strolling. Be sure to do the same in order to see some of the statues decorating the gardens (the park has over a hundred) and if you have children you can take them to the carousel for some old-fashioned fun. There is also a museum as well as the original Luxembourg palace. Personally, I love to explore a different corner of the park every time I go. I always bring a book, find the perfect spot and stay there until the sun sets.
At this point in your day in St. Germain des Pres perhaps you’re feeling a little weary. Dinner time in this part of Paris is usually later than elsewhere so there is more than enough time for you to return to your hotel for a catnap or change of clothes. Do plan to return to my favorite area for dinner though, as it is home to one of the most famous restaurants in Paris. I’m talking about none other than Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, on Rue St Benoit. There you will feast on their incredible steak with sauces and fries and their walnut salad. You won’t be given a menu; instead, your waiter will simply ask you how you like your meat cooked and whether you’d like something to drink. Try their house wine, which is affordable and delicious and save room for dessert. A sweet crepe from one of the many street vendors in the area is the perfect ending to your meal.
If the wait for a table at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte is too long (considering that the restaurant does not take reservations), you can head across the street to another classic Paris restaurant, Le Petit Zinc. Playfully named after the slang term for Parisian bars (whose counters used to be made out of zinc), this restaurant is one of the few in the neighborhood that has outdoor seating in spring and summer. Decorated in the Art Nouveau style, it’s one of my favorites both due to its’ fashionable but unpretentious ambience and the delicious food served. You can enjoy all things imaginable here, but for me the highlight is always a traditional profiteroles for dessert, with the ceremonial hot chocolate sauce poured on your plate before your eyes.
Finally, the best part of Saint Germain des Prés, whose streets are bustling with shoppers by day, is the transformation after dark into one of the city’s best nightlife quarters. I recommend starting at Chez Georges, a cavernous wine bar known for its massive selection and the interesting crowd it draws, that includes musicians and local artists who may occasionally burst into song in the wee hours. I cannot imagine a more Parisian experience. A few blocks away you’ll find Coolin, a larger Irish pub-like bar that’s perfect for mingling and dancing with tables outside also on nice nights. When you’ve had enough of the bars on the surrounding blocks, make your way north to what many consider the afterhours spot of the neighborhood. The Highlander is another cave-like bar located right by the river at the Pont Neuf. Depending on when you go there is something for every taste, from live music shows to rugby games on television, to dance parties that go all night. Highlander is a local favorite.
After all that great French wine, you’d better grab some food before night’s end. Make your way to Le Pub St Germain for a late night snack and a nightcap. This café-bar-restaurant is relatively large by Parisian standards and each room is a different color and decorated in a different style. I love this place but what I love most is the fact that it’s open 24 hours. Try their fries with one of their signature cocktails.
If you want something more casual then head to nearby St Michel. Walk east on Rue Saint André des Arts and you’ll find some kabob places open until very late. St Michel is an area that’s guaranteed to provide some more late night entertainment with kitschy bars and clubs flooded with people in various states of inebriation spilling into the St Michel streets. Hint: there’s a taxi stand at the northernmost corner of Place Saint-Michel that will facilitate a fast escape when Parisian nightlife becomes too much.
All in all, Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood without equal. Whenever I return to my old stomping ground I always discover something new – a vintage shop I’d never noticed or a pop-up sushi restaurant with no sign. That’s the mystique of it. It’s forever
evolving but is still mindful of its’ long, long history and heritage.
The country code for France is 33.
{niftybox width=600}
Where to Stay
Hotel Lutetia – stacked like a Moulin Rouge showgirl on the corner of boulevard Raspail and Rue de Sevres, this Art Deco masterpiece is something special and full of artistic surprises. It embodies the fabulous neighborhood (think the Plaza Hotel in its heyday). Spring for one of the garret suites that overlook the Eiffel Tower. You will feel like you’ve stepped back in time. 45 Boulevard Raspail, 75006; 1 4954 4646; www.lutetia-paris.com
Hotel Buci Latin – tucked away on a tiny street in St. Germain des Pres, Buci Latin is very popular with the fashion pack and oozes the neighborhood’s intricacies. 34 Rue de Buci, 75006; 1 4329 0720 (no website)
Hotel de L’Abbaye – a former abbey from the 17th century, this hotel with just 44 rooms is a true French original. Step into the forecourt and you’ve practically left Paris behind. Try for one of the four 2 story suites that overlook St. Sulpice. 10 Rue Cassette, 75006; 1 4544 3811; www.hotel-abbaye.com
Hotel Le Petit Paris – a small luxury hotel in the heart of the Quartier Latin, just a stone’s throw from St. Germain des Pres, Le Petit Paris with just 20 rooms showcases Parisian elegance in a resolutely modern setting. Even Jim Morrison stayed there. 214 Rue St. Jacques, 75005; 01 5310 2929; www.hotelpetitparis.com
Where to Eat & Drink
Café de Flore – this historical café is a classic literary haven situated in the center of everything. Go for the experience and the delicious coffee. 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain
75006, Metro St-Germain des Prés. 1 4548 5526. http://www.cafedeflore.fr/
Néo Café – a young, relaxed place for coffee and a light meal, perfect for people watching. 126 Boulevard Saint-Germain 75006, Metro Odéon. 1 4326 9224
– fun, delicious crepes in a cozy restaurant with an island atmosphere. Go for lunch or some afternoon tea and ice cream. 10, Rue des Canettes 75006, Metro St Sulpice/Mabillon. 1 43 26 27 65. http://www.pancakesquare.com/
– the menu has been the same for years, and includes a handful of items. Some things never get old, and this restaurant is one of them. 20 rue Saint-Benoît 75006, Metro Mabillon/Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 45 49 16 00. http://www.relaisentrecote.fr/
Le Petit Zinc – French cuisine at its best in this Art Nouveau themed restaurant. Go for the outdoor terrace and the seafood bar. 11, rue Saint-Benoit, 75006, Metro Mabillon/Saint-Germain-des-Prés. http://www.petit-zinc.com/
Amorino – an international gelato sensation, with seasonal flavors and unique presentation. Prepare for long lines, especially on a nice day. 4 rue de Buci 75006, Metro Mabillion/Odéon. 1 43 26 57 46. www.amorino.com
Chez Georges – a cave-like wine bar, unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. Great wine selection and fun crowds. 11 rue des Canettes 75006, Metro Mabillon. 1 43 26 79 15
Coolin – a pub-style bar, known mostly for its lively patrons and the dancing that takes place on weekend nights. Great fun! 15 rue Clément 75006, Metro Mabillon. 1 44 07 00 92
– two bars in two separate floors define this late night spot that will prove to be much more than meets the eye.. 8 rue de Nevers 75006, Metro Pont-Neuf/Odéon. 1 43 26 54 20. http://www.the-highlander.fr/
Le Pub St Germain – funky place perfect for drinks or food, with interesting décor and open 24/7. 17 rue de l’Ancienne Comédie 75006, Metro Odéon. 1 56 81 13 13
Where to Shop
– you will find some of the best French pastries in this elegant boutique reminiscent of jewelry stores. You can order online and pick your desserts up without having to wait. 72 rue Bonaparte 750006, Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 43 54 47 77. http://www.pierreherme.com/
Aesop Saint Germain – the flagship store of the Australian skin, body and hair line, known for the quality of its products. 20 rue Bonaparte 75006, Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 44 41 02 19. www.aesop.com
Cacao et Chocolat – the perfect place to buy chocolate gifts with an Aztec twist, for you or for others. Chocolate fountain anyone? 29 rue de Buci 75006, Metro Mabillon/ Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 46 33 77 63. www.cacaoetchocolat.com
Taschen – the Paris branch of the famous publishing house that specializes in design and coffee table books. 2 rue de Buci 75006, Metro Mabillon/ Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 40 51 79 22. www.taschen.com
What to See
Église St-Germain-des-Prés– what once used to be the burial ground for kings is now the landmark church of the neighborhood. 3 Pl. St-Germain-des-Prés 75006, Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés. 1 55 42 81 33. www.eglise-sgp.org
Église Saint-Sulpice – this Late Baroque church is the second largest in Paris after Notre Dame and has received a lot of publicity in the last decade because of the prominent role it played in the book The Da Vinci Code. Place Saint-Sulpice 75006. 01 42 34 59 60.
Jardin du Luxembourg – this beautiful garden is the second largest in Paris, filled with statues and flowerbeds. A perfect place to relax and enjoy Parisian life. Various entrances on rue de Médicis and rue de Vaugirard 75006, Metro Odéon . 01 42 64 33 99